Fred Eatery review | Simon Wilkinson discovers a well-known chef in the Adelaide Hills

An acclaimed young chef of the ’90s is the creative force behind a Hills cafe that exceeds all expectations.

Gnocchi with Brussel sprouts at Fred Eatery

I have a few lasting memories of my grandpa, Harold. He loved tennis and dogs, particularly his little mate Patrick, a border collie-cross. He smoked a pipe filled with tobacco that had the smell of damp soil. His generous hand with the sherry bottle made a Christmas dessert not to be trifled with. And, even when eating under doctor’s orders, his breakfast would include a rasher of the best shortcut bacon he could buy.

That, of course, was back in the days when the first meal of the day, even on weekends, was a far simpler affair, mostly prepared at home. The few cafes that did open early would offer a choice of poached, fried or scrambled eggs, perhaps benedict or florentine if they were flash.

Goodness knows what Harold would make of the modern breakfast or brunch. I can’t imagine he’d be that impressed by having his eggs with smashed avocado and pistachio salad, particularly at more than $20 a pop. Or that he’d order Patrick a doggie latte, with lactose-free milk and a turmeric sprinkle.

Yep, it’s easy to take the mickey out of places like Fred Eatery at Aldgate, which features both items on its all-day menu.

However, that would risk overlooking what cafes such as this do at their best: produce properly cooked, well conceived food at a time and a price to suit the way people run their lives these days.

The exceptional quality of food we are served at Fred is only surprising if you don’t know the background of the guy who is running the place. Back in the mid ’90s, Todd Langley was a bright young thing wowing diners and winning awards at The Oxford Hotel. From there, he dropped off the radar, working interstate and then in corporate event management.

Three years ago a breakfast in the Hills ended in a decision to take over what was the Aldgate Providore with partner Aaron Bond.

Together they have transformed what
was a dark and fusty cafe into something lighter, brighter and more Hillsy. Three separate zones, including a mezzanine lounge, are connected by a green and white livery that flows from the painted surfaces and cushions to the gingham aprons worn
by waiting staff. Wooden replicas of origami cranes swoop overhead.

Fred’s single-page menu is split neatly between early breakfast, lunch and the all-rounders that would fit comfortably in either camp. Each part includes enough diverting items to make clear that this is no run-of-the-mill outfit. The spiced Indian eggs with roti to start the day for instance.

Even a straight forward concept such as roasted mushrooms on toast exceeds expectations. Five large, plump discs, black as night and oozing juices, are balanced atop a slice of sourdough slathered with goat curd at one end, and basil pesto at the other, a drizzle of sweet balsamic syrup mingling happily with the other flavours.

Interior at Fred Eatery

Showing more advanced kitchen craft, the “cloud gnocchi” live up to their moniker, the little puffs of barely-bound potato wonderfully light and deeply tanned from a final fling in a hot pan. They are tossed with similarly browned brussels sprouts, peas, spinach, pesto, ricotta and, in the words of the menu, a “kiss of blue cheese”. A sprinkle of fried crumbs and parmesan complete a dish that would be comfortable in far more upmarket surrounds.

The sticky black chicken feels like three different Asian dishes in one but works to great effect. A base of coconut and lime leaf rice is stirred through a sauce of Thai yellow curry, like a love child of mild laksa and soupy risotto. Pieces of chook thigh have been marinated in house-made sweet chilli and a blend of five says, before grilling. All this is topped with a tangle of herbs and greens, ribbons of pickled carrot and roasted peanuts. A little dish of tamarind nam jim lifts everything it touches to greater heights.

The only miss is a dense, fudgey slice of chocolate and cherry “brownie” that needs a little sharpness in the fruit or accompanying syrup to cut the richness.

Fred is the archetype of the modern cafe. If I was living in that part of the Hills, I’d be very happy to have it there. I’m just not sure how Harold and Fred would have got along.

FRED EATERY

220 Mount Barker Rd, Aldgate
8339 1899; fredeatery.com.au

OWNERS Todd Langley, Aaron Bond
CHEF Todd Langley

FOOD Contemporary cafe BREAKFAST $12.50-$24.50 LUNCH $16.90-$25.90 DESSERT $8 DRINKS A handful of white and another of reds, all from the Hills and most at the same reasonable price.

Open for

BREAKFAST and LUNCH Tue-Sun

DINNER Fri

SCORE 7.5/10