Adelaide Icon, Aces Bar & Bistro, enters new era with superstar chef in the kitchen
The Aces Bar & Bistro has been an Adelaide Central Market institution for more than a quarter of a century. Now it’s been relaunched with a major renovation ... and a superstar chef.
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“Nothing is more powerful than nostalgia,” says Andrew Fantasia in the revamped Aces Pizza & Liquor.
The Adelaide Central Market institution reopened this week following a two-month renovation that’s brought the 26-year-old bistro to the 21st Century.
It’s a vision come true for Andrew, whose father, Enzo, has been behind the business from the beginning. Andrew has been working with James Hillier (Golden Boy, Africola) to revamp the once dark and dated space, while nationally acclaimed chef Duncan Welgemoed of Africola fame has put his Midas touch on the menu.
Loyal customers will still find their pizza and pasta for an affordable $18, while dishes such as the Capellini Golden Century attract a new generation of food lovers.
That particular dish is a nod to Chinatown and is inspired by a secret, butter and garlic-laden noodle dish at Sydney’s Golden Century restaurant.
“Usually you can only request the noodles by ordering the snow crab,” Welgemoed, of Africola fame, says. “I got the recipe.”
Welgemoed will continue to consult on the menu once he eventually passes the tongs to former Press chef, Josh Lansley.
Injecting new life into the venue has been an investment.
Original parquet floors have been restored, as has the solid wood bar. New booth seating, 80s style chairs and the odd neon sign help to create an American-Italian vibe. Pokies have been blocked from view.
It pays homage to history, and welcomes a new generation.
“The end goal for me, is my father. My father is such a beautiful man; he is a legend,” Andrew says. “He’s had a tough 4-5 years here.
“For him to be able to enjoy the last couple of years in hospitality alongside some of the best people in hospitality, in a really cool venue, is just so fitting.”
Letting go of his restaurant as it was for so many years was a struggle for Enzo. But he had faith in his son and Hillier, who also has roots in the market, having set up House of Organics in 1997. “It looks fantastic,” Enzo says. “Now I’m a customer”.
Aces has seen many a famous face in its time.
“This place was like Cheers in the Market,” he says.
“We had people in the 90s – Michael Wilson who played for Port Adelaide, Brent Williams for the Crows and Ross Aloisi for West Adelaide, Milovanović playing for Adelaide City – they were all working here.
“There was a lot of fun, a lot of memories here.”
A decline in pokies’ popularity had a lot to do with Aces’ decline in trade. Enzo will now be looking after that side of the business, while Andrew takes the food and drink to the next level.
“We’ll still be doing pizzas, pastas, cotoletta and parmy, you know, but just making it better,” he says.
Andrew’s background in wine means drinks are of high standard, too. The front of the venue doubles as a bottle shop for his wine business, Hustle & Vine. Diners can also choose a bottle and pay corkage to drink it in the restaurant. The venue is now open for dinner Thurs-Sat, and there’ll be “golden hour” specials from 8.30pm-11.30pm (you’ll be able to hear when that kicks off, when Yellow’s ‘Oh Yeah’ plays through the speakers.
“It’s all about giving people a feeling,” Andrew says. “Give people a feeling and it lasts forever.”
