Zapata’s Mexican Restaurant at North Adelaide, city’s oldest Mexican eatery, closing in June
No one knew what a jalapeño was when it first opened – now the owner is sharing fond memories before the much-loved institution shuts down.
The owner of Adelaide’s oldest surviving Mexican eatery, Zapata’s, has reflected on the increasingly tough nature of the hospitality industry ahead of his restaurant’s closure next month.
In 1982, Norm Frohnert was one of four partners to buy the North Adelaide restaurant, then named Villa Mexicana, which had served Mexican cuisine since 1975.
It was one of just two Mexican restaurants in Adelaide, along with the since-closed Tequila Sunrise on Gouger St, and a 32-year-old Mr Frohnert saw an opportunity to introduce a new type of Mexican food to the city.
He and his former partners Sylvia Spalding, Tony Spalding and Asterida Strauberg adopted a “formula” inspired by the Taco Bell franchise, which had been successful in Melbourne, emphasising low prices, mildly spiced food and big servings.
“In its original form, this restaurant was too expensive, it was too exclusive,” said Mr Frohnert, now 78.
“We brought the profile back to something that was more popular; it was a Sonoran style of food, which was more mildly spiced. Our card used to say ‘spiced and priced for all to enjoy’.”
It was so popular in its heyday that customers even asked if they could bring their own chairs when the restaurant was booked out.
Expanding on their success, the team opened Cha Chi’s at Frewville, Cactus Cafe in the CBD, Viva Zapata’s in Semaphore and a food manufacturing business, Mexican Express – all of which were later sold or closed.
“This has always been the mainstay restaurant,” Mr Frohnert said.
He has seen the Mexican food scene change dramatically as the cuisine became mainstream and more restaurants opened, including popular chains such as Guzman Y Gomez.
“Jalapeño peppers, everybody knows what they are now. When we were here, this sort of stuff was foreign,” Mr Frohnert said.
While he is closing on June 28 to retire because of his age, he said the restaurant business was becoming “harder and harder” as the cost of everything went up.
“Any little piece of profit that you might make, finds a hole somewhere else. I can’t recommend the life to anybody these days, unless you have something special,” Mr Frohnert said. “I couldn’t have wished for more, but it takes its toll.”
Business has boomed again since he announced the closure as families booked in to experience the restaurant one last time.
Mr Frohnert said he was most proud of getting people into the workplace through apprenticeships, and the number of staff who have stayed on for many years.
His head chef, Franca Carbone, has worked at Zapata’s for about 30 years.
Last year, the restaurant bid farewell to Shane Frankcom, who had worked there for more than 35 years before passing away, prompting a flood of tributes from customers on social media.
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Originally published as Zapata’s Mexican Restaurant at North Adelaide, city’s oldest Mexican eatery, closing in June
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