This was published 1 year ago
Inside the untouched, ancient world of Japan’s Arashiyama
Japan’s getaway for nobles and hot-springs wonders, Seoul’s vibrant heart, and more: North Asia’s travel hits from Good Weekend’s 2023 Dream Destinations issue.
The Hoshinoya Resort, which is only accessible via a 15-minute boat-ride down the Oi River.Credit: HOSHINOYA Kyoto
Holidaying like ancient nobility in Arashiyama, Kyoto, Japan
WHY: Once a resort town for the Imperial family and Heian-era nobles, Arashiyama has a natural beauty that’s been captured in some of Japan’s most important literary works, including The Tale of Genji, generally referred to as the world’s first novel. The aristocratic classes spent their holidays on the river enjoying nature’s seasons through pursuits such as poetry tournaments, calligraphy and flower-arranging.
THE EXPERIENCE: Through some of the strictest landscape and heritage codes in the world, the natural environment in Arashiyama remains virtually untouched, with temples from the 14th century still standing. Boats on its river are all wooden, with virtually no signage and zero advertising. One of these craft belongs to The Hoshinoya Resort, which is only accessible via a 15-minute boat-ride down the Oi River.
Celebrating its history, the resort incorporates activities such as incense and tea ceremonies, calligraphy and traditional card games. Rather than television, viewing includes the maple trees, cherry blossoms and/or autumn leaves, and the bright blue-green river below.
IDEAL FOR: Nature, culture and artisan appreciators.
LIKE THIS? TRY: The Nezu Museum in Tokyo, which features a huge Japanese garden and heritage arts and crafts. Anna-Lisa Backlund
Meeting the artisans in Ishikawa, Japan
The Ishikawa region is home to many of Japan’s artisans.
WHY: This Japanese prefecture has creativity at its heart.
THE EXPERIENCE: It’s not by chance that Ishikawa is home to some of Japan’s most talented artisans. From the 17th to 19th centuries, part of the region was ruled by the Maeda clan, a wealthy family who, much like Florence’s House of Medici, were passionate supporters of the arts, setting up workshops for artisans to hone their skills. Ishikawa still prides itself on the brilliance of its creators, and still invests heavily in their nurture.
And for those visiting the likes of Kanazawa, Kaga and the Noto Peninsula, that manifests in a host of galleries and workshops where you can peruse and buy directly from dedicated craftspeople. Take, for example, Eiko Tanaka, a lacquerware specialist who crafts fine tableware from rough blocks of wood. Her workshop and gallery in Kaga is also a cafe and bar, the perfect showcase for her pieces. Or visit the home studio of Yoshita Minori, a “Living National Treasure” and an expert in Kutani porcelain. His Kaga workshop is now helmed by his son, Yoshita Yukio, who continues the tradition of pottery decorated with gold leaf. Or simply wander the streets of Kanazawa and see what catches your eye.
IDEAL FOR: Those looking for a unique souvenir, or a serious artistic investment.
LIKE THIS? TRY: Lisbon. The Portuguese capital has emerged as a centre for creative types, the city’s affordability attracting artisans from across Europe. Ben Groundwater
Eating sushi at the Aman, Tokyo, Japan
Aman Tokyo head chef Hiroyuki Musashi. Credit: Aman Tokyo
WHY: How often do you get to eat sushi made with rice grown by the chef, and drink sparkling sake from the same personal crop, while overlooking Tokyo’s Imperial Palace gardens?
THE EXPERIENCE: As anyone who has been to Japan knows, sushi from a train station can be – and usually is – fabulous. In fact, most food in this country is a cut above that found elsewhere, a reason in and of itself to visit. But the multi-course omakase dinner on the 34th floor of the Aman Tokyo is something special even in this context, and that’s largely because of Hiroyuki Musashi. The master chef at Musashi by Aman makes every piece of sushi right there in front of the eight people seated at his counter, using rice he’s harvested in the Yamanashi prefecture from which he hails. The 84-room hotel was the first Aman opened in an urban setting, and this one, like many, was designed by Australia’s Kerry Hill Architects. Think warm, minimalist wood and stone, with washi paper on the walls and big bathtubs in the suites – from which to view the twinkling lights of Tokyo.
IDEAL FOR: Design- and food-focused travellers with healthy budgets.
LIKE THIS? TRY: Equally thrilling but at the other end of the price spectrum, get down to Fukuoka and eat from one of its yatai or streetside food stalls. What they can cook up on portable gas burners in the confines of plastic tents beggars belief. Katrina Strickland
Hunting history in Izushi, Japan
Izushi is overlooked by mossy castle ruins and 20th-century reconstructions.Credit: Visit Kinoskai, Shogo Nishiyama
WHY: Japan’s byways are increasingly on the radar, and Izushi provides heritage architecture and small-town charm.
THE EXPERIENCE: This old samurai town in Toyooka, Hyogo Prefecture, 120 kilometres north-west of Kyoto, is overlooked by mossy castle ruins and 20th-century reconstructions, and a Shinto shrine hunkered beneath giant cedar trees. You’ll find tranquillity amid an ensemble of Edo-era streetscapes and well-preserved wooden buildings, including a delightful kabuki theatre, a 300-year-old sake cellar, the last traditional willow weaver in Japan, and dozens of eateries serving soba noodles, a local speciality. Just over 20 kilometres north, Kinosaki Onsen is Japan’s finest and most traditional-looking hot-springs resort. Stay at the venerable ryokan, Nishimuraya Honkan, which oozes historical atmosphere down to its tatami mats, creaking floorboards, raked gardens and impeccable service. Elaborate evening multi-course kaiseki meals are a visual and taste treat, especially during the winter snow-crab season.
IDEAL FOR: Heritage hounds and lovers of countryside.
LIKE THIS? TRY: The Kii Peninsula, south of Osaka, is a world away from the bright lights of urban Japan. Follow the pilgrim hiking route past temples and shrines into a scenic region revered in the Shinto religion. Brian Johnston
Savouring Seoul, Korea
The neon streets of Seoul. Credit: iStockphoto
WHY: Few, if any, other cities in Asia can challenge Tokyo for vibrancy and sheer idiosyncrasy like Seoul can these days.
THE EXPERIENCE: The sprawling South Korean capital of nearly 10 million, er, souls, will have your head spinning and your eyes K-popping. From movies to music, South Korea’s remarkable cultural output now surpasses even that of Japan with the vast and posh Gangnam (“South of the Han River”) district, and the subject of the Gangnam Style global hit – its fulcrum. K-Star Road, the ritzy Rodeo Drive of Seoul, is lined with cute and colourful, if not a little weird, bear-like statues dedicated to the leading K-pop boy and girl bands. Yet with the capital closely ringed by mountains, nature is surprisingly near. Oh and then, of course, there’s the city’s soulful though notoriously spicy cuisine. Seoul, you’re on a roll.
IDEAL FOR: Culture vultures and foodies who feel they’ve “done” Tokyo, well, at least for now.
LIKE THIS? TRY: Seoul overwhelmingly receives the most visitors to Korea but there’s a whole country to explore beyond it – including Busan, the nation’s second largest city. Two-odd hours away by bullet train, it’s known for its beaches, mountains and temples. Anthony Dennis
Soaking up the natural hot springs of Japan
Onsen bathing in Kyushu. Credit: Visit Kyushu
WHY: Japan’s hot springs are simply extraordinary – and their towns are often wonderfully quirky.
THE EXPERIENCE: Japan has no shortage of relaxing rituals, from the fragrant tea ceremony to the deliberately drawn-out dining experience that is a kaiseki meal, but when you want to soothe your muscles and clear your mind, nothing beats an onsen (hot springs) session. The scenic island of Kyushu is known for its array of onsen, which include not just the traditional thermal baths but also opportunities to immerse yourself in mud or hot sand. Top hot-springs towns to try include Beppu, home to more than 100 public onsen; pretty Yufuin, where horse-drawn carriages clop through the streets; and Kurokawa, with its bamboo-fringed pools. As with any Japanese experience, there are rules to follow. Shower before you step into the water and leave your bathing suit at home – this experience is strictly au naturel. After your soaking session, feast on local specialties such as Miyazaki beef or Kurobuta pork.
IDEAL FOR: Anyone looking to savour life in the slow lane.
LIKE THIS? TRY: Prefer to walk off your worries? The island of Shikoku’s Henro pilgrimage route winds its way past 88 historic temples; pick a stretch of the scenic 1200-kilometre route and enjoy. Ute Junker
In association with Traveller. Thank you to Julietta Jameson, Jane Reddy and Anthony Dennis from team Traveller for their help on this issue.
To read more from Good Weekend magazine, visit our page at The Sydney Morning Herald, The Age and Brisbane Times.