This French rail journey makes our own XPT trains seem luxe

The train: SNCF TER Regional Express, France

• Route Nice to Marseille
• Distance 158km/2 hours, 34 minutes
• Operator SNCF
• Class Standard class
• Frequency 69 trains daily

The SNCF TER Regional Express train connects Nice to Marseille.Credit: Alamy

The journey

Nice Ville station to Marseille St Charles station on the SNCF TER Regional Express train, with a scheduled time of two hours and 34 minutes.

The class

I’m in Standard Class, where seats are not assigned. First Class passengers enjoy more spacious seats with power sockets, reading lights and retractable tables. They can choose their seat preference, including the quiet area, a solo seat or a facing duo. When booked in advance, first class tickets generally cost 50 per cent more than standard class tickets.

Carbon emissions

According to the SNCF Connect website, CO2 emissions for TER journeys are calculated at 29.2 grams of CO2 per kilometre travelled. For this 160-kilometre trip, 4.67 kilos of emissions are produced. SNCF is trialling new methods to cut their direct carbon emissions to zero by 2050. Last year, hybrid TERs were tested. It’s estimated they use 20 per cent less energy than their predecessors.

Boarding

Here’s where things get interesting. I type “Nice train station” into the “Where to?” box in the Uber app and hit the first suggestion that comes up. What I don’t know is there are three train stations in Nice. I head off to Nice St Augustin (a charmless, barren two-track hub with no working lifts today), when I should have gone to Nice Ville.

The train heading to Marseille will be stopping at this station, so it shouldn’t be a big deal, except it is. The station mix-up discombobulates me and I jump on the next train that comes along, the local, instead of the Regional Express. It will terminate in Cannes, a long way from my final destination.

The bright side? It’s a leisurely, scenic amble past some of the French Riviera’s most beautiful beaches (Juan Les Pins, Golfe Juan, Antibes). A helpful French lady tells me to disembark at Cannes station and wait for the next TER, which comes along in 10 minutes. It’s a later train than the one I have a ticket for, but there’s no conductor onboard, so all’s well that ends well.

The seat

In a 2-2, one-aisle configuration, the standard class seats are covered in blue fabric. They’re comfortable enough for this relatively short journey. I’m in one of the quad seats, facing another passenger. There are racks overhead for small-to-medium sized luggage.

Marseille St Charles Station.Credit: iStock

Baggage

It’s a free-for-all. Passengers rush on to the train, cramming their larger luggage onto seats and in the aisles. It’s a Twister-effort to fit myself, my suitcase and handbag into a seat facing another passenger, but somehow we manage.

Food + drink

Expecting there to be delicious French drinks and snacks available for purchase, I’ve brought nothing with me. No such luck. TER (unlike TGV) trains have no catering services onboard, so by the time we reach Marseille, I’m hungry and thirsty. There are plenty of options to refuel inside the station, including Paul, Carl’s Jr, EXKi and Go Johnny Go.

One more thing

The best way to travel between French towns and cities is by rail, though you’ll enjoy a much better experience on the high-speed TGV trains.

If you have the choice, catch the TGV (rather than TER), here crossing the Esterel Massif.

The verdict

Where’s the legendary French flair and sophistication? This ride makes the Sydney-to-Canberra XPT seem luxe. See sncf-connect.com

Our rating

★★½

The writer travelled at her own expense.