The beautiful, 200-year-old French store where you can stay the night

The apartment

Maison Empereur, Marseille, France

Check-in

Maison Empereur is a Marseille institution. A hardware store turned general store that stocks everything from nuts and bolts to shoe polish, cleaning products, classic French cookware, homewares, skincare, toys and clothes; it has been operating for almost 200 years. With two street frontages and a rabbit warren of rooms over three levels dedicated to the finest products in every category, it’s the kind of place anyone with a love of beautifully made, useful things would like to visit – and stay. And since Maison opened an apartment for guests above the store, now you can.

Maison Empereur in Marseille is a hardware store turned general store that has been operating for close to 200 years. Now you can stay there as well as shop there.

To check in, we present ourselves to the sales assistant at the antique knife counter who is expecting us. Then Virginie, our host, takes us outside to a door next to the shop but part of the same building. Up two flights of narrow winding stairs, elegant double doors lead to the Maison apartment.

The apartment, with balcony, is above the shopfront.

The look

The Maison Empereur store is filled with original cabinets and counters with products stacked high to the ceiling. It would feel like a museum if it weren’t so vibrant, with staff busy assisting customers looking for everything from handmade feather dusters to Marseille soap. The apartment celebrates this history, creating a space that feels like a snapshot of privileged life in the 1800s. If I were a bourgeoise housewife living in 19th-century Marseille, this is where I’d like to live.

Enter the apartment foyer, and you’re immediately struck by its moody interior. In the chocolate-brown painted living area, four floor-to-ceiling French doors lead onto a lacework balcony overlooking the Cours St-Louis square. The colour beautifully offsets the aged timber furniture and museum-quality objects displayed throughout the rooms. Empereur family photographs, taxidermy, and displays of antique tools adorn the walls, while concrete-washed floors provide a contemporary and cool surface (Marseille can get hot and sticky).

The room

Rustic bathroom.

The apartment includes a full-width living area, a bathroom featuring an antique copper bath and hand-held shower, a modern toilet cleverly hidden in a timber bench, and a kitchen kitted out with an antique stove. The bedroom and kitchen lead onto a quiet terrace at the rear with rooftop views and greenery. If 19th-century living doesn’t sound that appealing, don’t worry; all the mod-cons are cleverly hidden in cupboards and drawers. There’s Wi-Fi, a Bluetooth speaker, coffee maker, toaster, microwave and refrigerator.

Bedroom ambience.

Food + drink

Virginie explains that the stove is for display only, and I’m not disappointed – tackling cooking with a fire-powered stove is not my idea of a relaxing stay. She gestures with her hands to explain that everyone eats out, and it makes perfect sense. We’re in the heart of one of Marseille’s most exciting food districts. From the balcony, I can see my favourite cafe, Petrin Couchette, where natural sourdough is sold by the kilo. Around the corner is Chez Yassine, Marseille’s best Tunisian restaurant, and the Noailles food market, surrounded by small bars, tea salons and bakeries, is a few steps away. We won’t go hungry.

Out + about

Step back in time – the apartment’s kitchen.

Maison Empereur is in the heart of Marseille, and so everything the city has to offer is on its doorstep. Whether you’re strolling through the historic Vieux Port, visiting the Mucem and Fort, or enjoying sunset drinks on the terrace at the imposing Hotel Dieu, it’s all just a short walk away. Sipping champagne on the balcony while watching the world go by is also an appealing idea.

The verdict

Maison Empereur specialises in the highest-quality products and has a deep respect for artisan-made goods, history and tradition. If you love the store’s aesthetic and philosophy, an apartment stay is the ultimate immersion.

Essentials

The Maison Empereur apartment is €170 ($289) a night for two guests. Stair access only.

Maison Empereur, 4 Rue des Recolettes, 13001 Marseille, France.

See empereur.fr or [e-mail]

Our score out of five

★★★★

Highlight

Walking into this beautiful, carefully curated space is a one-of-a-kind experience.

Lowlight

Antiques look beautiful but can be awkward to use. Life is more comfortable in the 21st century.

The writer stayed with the assistance of Maison Empereur.