Fast food, no booze: This airport doesn’t live up to its luxury locale

The airport

Maldives Velana International Airport (MLE)

Male Airport and the nearby seaplane terminal.Credit: iStock

The flight

FlyDubai flight FZ1026 from Male to Dubai, departing at 12.15pm.

The arrival

It’s all very breezy. After eight neon-green days spent basking in the atolls, I’m whisked from Male’s nearby seaplane terminal and personally escorted straight onto a bus that drops me at international departures. Despite being low season, the open-air departures area is a rush of activity and it’s teeming with bronzed faces. The same resort staff member gathers my luggage onto a trolley and escorts me through security and check-in. This allows me to maintain mindless island mode for a little longer.

The look

Compared to the newer, slicker seaplane terminal, the international terminal feels dated and rundown. It’s dark, dingy and so hot, I have to roll up my “flying” pants until I’m past security and at my gate, which is thankfully indoors and climate-controlled. It reminds me of the domestic terminals in some of the far outer islands of South-East Asian spots such as Thailand and Indonesia, but even that might be a generous assessment.

Check-in

I’m escorted to the FlyDubai check-in desk and inquire about an upgrade, which is overpriced at $US600 ($952) given I bid and won a $US245 upgrade on the in-bound leg from Dubai. It’s only a four-hour flight, but I inquire how full the flight is to gauge if there’s any chance of getting a bit more space in economy. The Maldivian staff member working at the counter is all smiles and there’s a bit of banter back and forth, despite the language barrier. When I get on the plane, I find he’s kindly allocated me an empty row. It’s only a four-hour flight, but I’m able to sprawl out. Thank you, aviation gods.

Inside the somewhat dated terminal.Credit: iStock

Security

All luggage must be scanned before heading through to the check-in counters, which is then followed by immigration and another round of security. Being a strict Muslim country, the Maldives is dry, and it’s illegal to bring alcohol into the atolls (even though it’s sold at the resorts). But what about taking it out with you? I gingerly inform my resort escort that I’ve been gifted a bottle of champagne and it’s in my luggage. He laughs, thinks it should be fine and we risk it. No one bats an eye. You beauty. There’s a bit more of a wait in the security line following immigration, but the honeymooners are too zen to care and so am I.

Food + drink

It’s slim pickings, aside from a handful of fast food and coffee chains. After a week spent eating nothing but resort food, that could be exactly what you’re craving. Before heading through security, I spot both a KFC and a Costa Coffee. Once through immigration, there’s a Burger King and The Coffee Club. You’re better off being fed on the plane.

Male International Airport (MLE). Credit: iStock

Retail therapy

It’s unlikely that you’ll be able to afford much after this holiday, but should you find some spare change for duty free, you could go home with a nostalgic timepiece from Swatch or a carry-on from Samsonite. There’s also the usual perfume counters, including Hermes and Dior.

Passing time

No booze, no bars, but plenty of places to sit and upload all the photos that are going to make your friends’ FOMO go next level.

The verdict

The airport doesn’t live up to its luxury locale, but think of it as a means to an end. Many of the five-star resorts have their own private air-conditioned lounges with Wi-Fi and refreshments for both arrivals and departures, which makes the experience significantly more pleasant. See maleairport.com

Our rating out of five

★★★

The writer flew with the assistance of Anantara Dhigu (anantara.com/en/dhigu-maldives) and Six Senses Kanuhura (sixsenses.com).