Enjoy Thailand’s most-photographed train station while you still can

The station

Hua Hin Railway Station, Prachuap Khiri Khan Province; a major stop on Thailand’s Southern Line.

Hua Hin Station

The journey

From Hua Hin north to Bangkok’s new Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal Station (formerly Bang Sue Grand Station). Special Express 40, Second Class AC is a non-sleeper, four-hour, 200-kilometre service operated by State Railway of Thailand. See thailand.go.th

The departure

The train’s approach at Hua Hin is heralded by the station master striking a gleaming brass platform bell, a tradition found at most Thailand railway stations. It arrives late and as a result departs 47 minutes behind schedule but, making up time, still arrives 10 minutes early in Bangkok.

Safety + security

Casual. There are no barriers or security procedures, other than the guard’s direction to stand behind the yellow line on the low-rise platform as the train approaches.

Food + drink

The ornate old Number One Coffee cafe on Hua Hin platform offers soft drinks, snack food and good espresso coffee from 9am to 6pm. A Thai food stall towards the south end of the platform sells local noodles and rice dishes. Food vendors often operate aboard Thai trains, but on this final sector into Bangkok there appears to be only one. Stock up on your own BYO journey fuel, but alcohol must not be consumed on board.

Retail therapy

Hua Hin’s historic station opened in 1911 with no retail shops and that remains the case – there are local markets and small shops in the vicinity.

Passing time

On the platform.Credit: iStock

Train-spotting, people watching and taking selfies against the backdrop of the station’s Siamese-Victorian architecture. The platform’s elaborate Phra Mongkut Klao Pavilion, aka Royal Waiting Room, is the most photographed feature not only on the station but probably in the whole province. There is a free luggage storage room while you wander or wait, but no hotel, lounge, restaurant or bar. Announcements are made in Thai, English and Chinese. The waiting area has seats reserved for monks and the elderly, and the platform is dotted with frangipani trees and bougainvillea — these being Thailand railway traditions.

Boarding

At will. The platform is rail-level, not raised. Passengers board the train by climbing up the carriage steps. Aboard, a uniformed guard clips tickets. The latter can be purchased either online or in person, with passport ID. Seats are allocated and numbered. The rolling stock is old but clean, the air conditioning works and the passengers are orderly.

The verdict

A huge new elevated station is being constructed opposite the original station, in partnership with China’s One Road, One Belt girdle around the earth. Enjoy while you can the historic structure, Thailand’s best-loved and most photographed station, and a classic of South-East Asian railway history.

Our rating out of five

★★★★½

The writer travelled at his own expense.