Chaos and stress: How to cope with Greek island ferries

Travelling to the Greek islands by ferry can be like an initiation designed by Poseidon himself to test potential philhellenes – it’s confronting for the unprepared.

Standing on the immense concrete port in Santorini in 33-degree heat, it’s a cacophony of chaos. With dust billowing from nearby construction and refrigerated cargo trucks belching past, the landscape is a little apocalyptic – a good whack of Mad Max mixed with a touch of Star Wars. Gargantuan ferries disgorge thousands of people from their underbellies – on one dock, the ferry rear lowers like a whale’s yawning mouth, purging streams of people and cars out into the baking sun.

A ferry disgorging its passengers.Credit: iStock

I stand behind a rope in a calamitous hot pot of nationalities as my ferry thunders in. As though the starting gun was fired, the rope drops and a tsunami of humanity is released. I hurl my two toddlers into the one-child stroller and join the race to the ship as if it is the last lifeboat on the Titanic. It is as intense as it is stressful, but now that I’m a Greece ferry diehard, it is also, oddly exciting.

For when ferries dock and depart, there’s not only the melange of accents – Italian, French and Greek and more – there are also engineers in their oil-splattered boilersuits, immaculately dressed ticket collectors in waistcoats and port police herding cars, whining mopeds and cargo trucks on board. It’s an event.

And the boat itself can be a wonderland for exploration. Some car ferries have interior bunk-bed cabins (like the overnight Venice to Athens ferry), bistros and even internal escalators. On some, you’d be hard-pressed to find a packet of chips. On others, (top tip) economy passengers can visit the business-class dining area for their plush seats, a la carte meals and cooler air-con, the delicious moussaka almost on par with the price of economy’s fried chicken nuggets.

Credit: Greg Straight

The ferries are as varied as the islands they visit, providing a maritime clue about the destination. For example, tucked away in the final berth of Santorini’s wharf is the sprightly Seajets ferry, a little Boaty McBoatface skipping over the 45-minute trip to the mini-Santorini of Folegandros.

You won’t find too many passengers disembarking at the underrated island of Serifos.Credit: iStock

Created by the same explosion that birthed its superstar geological sister (complete with a caldera), little Folegandros lies under the radar and this duckling of a ferry is the first indication you’re heading somewhere most aren’t. Likewise, the port is more how you would imagine a Cyclades port: quaint.

But once peacefully on board your ferry, you feel a connection to the ancient searing past, sailing the same sapphire Aegean, sometimes tossed by the strong regional winds or sailing on seas as smooth as shiny satin. And on arrival at a port, there’s always the portside entertainment from the top deck to often see a small vehicle racing down the port like a Matilda winger, hoping they make it. And somehow, like you, they always do.

Journeys, such as that from Athens to Milos (Greece’s current “it” island), provide a sneak peek at ports on islands as they’re passed – a sushi train of delectable holiday possibilities. That’s how we end up disembarking with just eight others at Serifos.

The ferryman looks doubtful. “Really, are you sure, here?” he checks. Oh yes, pulled irresistibly by previous glimpses of an ancient Hora (old town) perched on a conical hilltop, a cascade of white dice buildings tumbling seaward as though tossed by a disgruntled gambler. The startling shape is designed by topography, but also to bamboozle pirates. An American couple commented once, “are there even any people there?” There are, and much more.

Ferry ticket prices range from €10 to €150 ($16.50 to $250) depending on the season, the vessel and the distance. The website, ferriesingreece.com, is excellent for route planning and purchasing, especially for the Blue Star Ferries and Seajets lines. The Eurail Greek Islands Pass, at $157, is an unbeatable four days within a month ferry pass. See Eurail.com