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A superb stay in the heart of Spain’s capital

By Anthony Dennis

THE HOTEL

The Principal Madrid, Spain

The Principal Hotel, Madrid.

The Principal Hotel, Madrid.

Check-in

It may not quite rival the Sydney Opera House, or for that matter Barcelona’s Sagrada Familia, from where I’ve just journeyed by Spanish high-speed train, but from here, on the sixth floor terrace of The Principal Madrid Hotel, I’m more than content with the view of Edificio Metropolis. Dating to the early 20th century, the narrow yet curvaceous Metropolis Building is one of the Spanish capital’s most photographed landmarks. It dominates the corner of the centrally located Calle de Alcala and Gran Via, the city’s most famous avenue dubbed the “Spanish Broadway” and it will serve as a ubiquitous aspect of my two-night stay at this pleasurable 76- room and suite hotel.

The look

La Terraza.

La Terraza.

Hardly an ugly duckling itself, the 1917 Spanish Renaissance building, which The Principal occupies, is unequivocally elegant, with the advantage of a discreet entrance just off the frenetic main drag and a drawcard red and white umbrella-bedecked rooftop terrace. The reception desk is set on the wonderfully louche, art-studded sixth floor between a lounge bar and a small restaurant. Visible through the tall windows on this floor, Edificio Metropolis is being converted to a five-star hotel, which will spell competition for The Principal, a member of the Small Luxury Hotels worldwide collection of boutique properties. However, its guests will always enjoy the bonus of views of the neighbouring building.

The room

Room with a view.

Room with a view.

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There’s absolutely no escaping the alluring spectre of Edificio Metropolis (and why would you want to). In fact, immediately out of the window of my spacious, smartly decorated and equipped deluxe city view room is the building’s most dramatic feature, the golden statue of Victoria Alada, meaning “winged victory”, otherwise known as Nike. It was the symbol of the insurance company La Union y el Fenix, which initially occupied the art nouveau pile.

Food + drink

Atico Restaurant.

Atico Restaurant.

Madrid, at last count, has 28 Michelin-starred restaurants, only two shy of the more showy Barcelona’s tally, but you needn’t necessarily leave the hotel for a memorable meal. The Principal’s inhouse Atico dishes up impressive modern Spanish lunches and dinners with city panoramas. For a more casual repast close to the hotel in the vibrant Chueca neighbourhood is Mercado di San Anton with upscale food court-like eateries. The surrounding lively grand avenues also offer convivial al fresco restaurants set on generously spaced, tree-lined pavements overlooking central Madrid’s magnificent architecture. The city is also home to historical cafes such as El Corte Ingles and Cafe Comercial, both close to the hotel, where you can commune over a cortado with everyday Madrilenos.

Out + about

Guernica by Pablo Picasso.

Guernica by Pablo Picasso.Credit: Alamy

Museo Nacional del Prado, or simply The Prado, tops the “must-see” list in Madrid but also allow time for Museo Reina Sofía. Its collection features Pablo Picasso’s monochrome masterpiece Guernica, depicting the devastating aerial assault of the eponymous Basque city during the Spanish Civil War by Nazi Germany and fascist Italy. Madrid has much to occupy the visitor but if you’re staying more than a few days consider a day-trip to one of Spain’s most beautiful smaller cities such as Toledo or Segovia.

Calle de Alcala and Gran Via Streets at night with the Edificio Metropolis Building, Madrid.

Calle de Alcala and Gran Via Streets at night with the Edificio Metropolis Building, Madrid.Credit: Getty Images

The verdict

For those desirous of being well-schooled in the magnificence of Madrid while situated in a superb central city location, please report directly to The Principal.

Essentials

Rooms from $436 a night. The Principal, Calle Marques de Valdeiglesias 1, 28004 Madrid. Ph (+34) 91 532 94 96. See theprincipalmadridhotel.com and slh.com

Our rating

★★★★½

Highlight

Along with Edificio Metropolis, The Principal is surrounded by monumental architecture such as the imposing Cibeles Palace, Madrid’s City Hall, and the handsome high-rise flanking Gran Via.

Lowlight

The reviewer visited Madrid in the quieter, early winter season – the hotel’s Gran Via location is likely to be considerably more crowded in summer months.

The writer stayed as a guest of Small Luxury Hotels and travelled courtesy of Viking Cruises and Etihad Airways.

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