Underrated region is the most magnificent landscape I’ve ever seen
If you’re hiking in the backcountry of Tongariro National Park you’ll need three essentials – a warm jacket, emergency beacon and a chocolate eclair. Not any eclair mind, but a super-sized one from Johnny Nation’s Chocolate Eclair shop in Ohakune (best popped in your backpack with an ice brick).
For decades, these eclairs have been the secret snack of choice in this mountainous region. In fact, the entire national park – home to three active volcanoes; Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe and Tongariro – is one of New Zealand’s best kept secrets.
Lower Tama Lake on the saddle between Mount Ruapehu and Mount Ngauruhoe.
The fire and brimstone began about 275,000 years ago. To geologists, these andesitic volcanoes form part of the Pacific Ring of Fire. To the Maori iwi (tribes), particularly the Ngati Tuwharetoa, the mountains are of profound cultural and spiritual significance.
Like many Australians, I’d overlooked this region, making repeat visits to the Southern Alps for skiing and hiking. But recently, I’ve discovered that the volcanic peaks of the North Island offer a distinct alternative – without the crowds or hype.
Who knew Tongariro National Park was New Zealand’s first national park (1887) and a dual UNESCO World Heritage Site, listed for both its natural and cultural significance. You may have seen Mount Ngauruhoe as the stand-in for Mount Doom in the Lord of the Rings trilogy. But did you know that Mount Ruapehu has two epic ski areas – Whakapapa and Turoa – and is a year-round destination for all kinds of outdoor pursuits? Or that the 20.2-kilometre Tongariro Alpine Crossing is regarded as one of the top-10 single day-treks in the world.
One of those eclairs from Johhny Nation’s in Ohakune.
For this relaxed rambler, there’s not enough cream and chocolate in the world to attempt such a leg-busting hike, rather, I’ll be tackling the 17.6-kilometre Tama Lakes track (rated moderate), a loop that traverses the saddle between Mount Ruapehu and Mount Ngauruhoe.
First stop is the Tongariro National Park Visitor Centre for trail and weather updates, information on any volcanic activity (also available on the GeoNet Volcanic Alert Bulletin app) and to hire a Personal Locator Beacon. Although it’s mid-summer I’ve packed warm clothes and extra snacks (no judgment please).
Leaving Whakapapa village, the well-marked trail crosses streams and ancient lava flows before spooling upwards through swathes of herb fields and tussock grass.
At intervals, I rest on cushions of white, woolly moss, so fleecy they could be the rumps of sheep, and against volcanic rocks that had once been expelled from the Earth’s core. I feel at once cradled and exhilarated.
In the distance, Mount Ngauruhoe rises like an island adrift in a sea of scorched earth, pulling us ever-forward until we breach the final rise to the lower Tama Lake. Other than one other couple, it’s all ours.
The magnificent landscape.
I’ve explored the trails of some of the world’s most renowned volcanoes, yet this landscape, with its snowy crowns and puddles of turquoise crater lakes, is the most magnificent I’ve seen. Never has an eclair been devoured in a finer setting.
We decided against the side track (advanced) leading to the upper Tama Lake; the scree slope is steep, my courage is small. Instead, we take our time on the return, stopping at Taranaki Falls.
Over the coming days we explore the alpine towns of Ohakune and Waimarino (formerly National Park Village), visit the Dinosaur Museum House at Raetihi and follow in Frodo’s footsteps along Mead’s Wall trail in the Whakapapa ski field.
As winter arrives, the volcanic peaks will be glazed in a snowy frosting, transforming the 550-hectare ski field into one of the most exhilarating destinations to ski or snowboard in the country; boasting Happy Valley, New Zealand’s premier learn-to-ski facility, as well as a variety of black runs for the experts. How often do you get to say you skied down an active volcano?
Whakapapa ski field is also home to Sky Waka, New Zealand’s longest gondola. It’s mid-morning when we board the glass-bottomed cabin, the 1.8-kilometre ride delivering us to Knoll Ridge Chalet for a traditional “tea at 2020 metres”. Yes, sneaky snacks are the fuel of choice in these parts.
Waterfalls and volcanoes in the Tongariro National Park.
The details
Stay
Skotel Alpine Resort is in the heart of the Tongariro National Park. Backpacker beds from $NZ90 ($83) a night, hotel rooms from $NZ175 ($162) – more in winter. See skotel.co.nz
Train
The Northern Explorer travels from Auckland to Wellington with stops in Waimarino (formerly National Park Village) and Ohakune. See greatjourneysnz.com
Fly
Air New Zealand offers daily direct flights from Sydney and Melbourne to Auckland. See airnewzealand.co.nz
The writer was a guest of Visit Ruapehu and Great Journeys New Zealand.
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