Switzerland’s Glacier Express.Credit: iStock
I confess: I’m a life-long train tragic. There’s nothing I love more than riding aboard a passenger train, but it goes deeper than that.
I love everything about railways – the locomotives, the carriages, the stations, the station restaurants, the onboard catering, even the antiquated old signal boxes and water tanks that you sometimes see alongside the line, sparkling with nostalgia.
I also like every type of train journey. There are some marvellous “rail cruises” out there, featuring luxurious long-distance trains such as the Eastern & Oriental Express or Australia’s own Indian Pacific and The Ghan.
These trains, which include fine meals and interesting tours, take their time and do so in style. Then there are the regularly scheduled services: more keenly priced trains that run to set timetables but provide access to good company and beautiful landscapes, such as Amtrak’s California Zephyr or the train that links Montenegro to Serbia.
Europe is dotted with great train stations, including St Pancras in London.Credit: iStock
Let’s not forget the many heritage railways, running along highly scenic routes once used by industrial operations or quiet branch line trains: the many narrow-gauge railways of Wales come vividly to mind.
As railways conquered the world of travel from the 19th century onwards, it gave rise to remarkable stations, often built with a grandeur that underlined their role as important public infrastructure, a symbol of society’s progress.
Europe is dotted with great railway stations, from London’s delightful St Pancras Station to Paris’ beautiful Gare du Nord – and the 21st century has added its share, as seen in the striking modernity of Berlin Hauptbahnhof.
Among this tangle of lines around the world, with their myriad trains and stations, there are many memorable experiences for the avid train traveller. Here’s a selection of those I’ve enjoyed on my own rail travels across the decades.
THE AWE-INSPIRING VISTA
The train Gotthard Panorama Express, Switzerland
Picture this: Gotthard Panorama Express.
The great journey This remarkable Swiss train also thinks it’s a boat – as it’s a two-stage journey by a swish modern train from Lugano, after which a historic paddle steamer heads across Lake Lucerne.
The greatest bit I was particularly struck by the views on our approach to the Gotthard Massif, a looming set of snow-topped mountains which seem to block any further progress – until the train ducked under them via the historic Gotthard Tunnel.
Make it happen From 164 Swiss francs ($290), also included with first class Swiss Travel Pass. See gotthard-panorama-express.ch
THE STYLE STATEMENT STATION
Union Station waiting room, Los Angeles. Credit: Getty Images
The trains Amtrak long-distance services and Los Angeles Metro trains, US
The great journeys Four of America’s most renowned long-distance trains arrive and depart from Los Angeles’ Union Station: the Sunset Limited to New Orleans, the Coast Starlight to Seattle, the Southwest Chief and the Texas Eagle to Chicago.
The great bit This is my favourite station in the world. Often called the last of the great train stations, its stunning blend of art deco, streamline moderne, and Spanish-inspired mission revival architecture on a monumental scale is breathtaking.
The station’s waiting room is the most eye-catching feature, with its decorative ceiling panels, enormous circular chandeliers, and tiled floors. If waiting for a train, relax in one of the art deco armchairs and soak it in.
Make it happen Open from 4am to 1am, Union Station is in Downtown LA at 800 North Alameda Street. See amtrak.com; unionstationla.com
THE EXQUISITE DINING CAR
The Eastern & Oriental Express dining room evokes a bygone era.
The train Eastern & Oriental Express
The great journey This luxurious delight runs rail cruises from Singapore into Malaysia.
The great bit Dinners are a highlight of the journey, within a glamorous dining car featuring gleaming glassware, crisp white tablecloths, art deco-styled lamps, flowers – and marvellous food created in the best traditions of Europe and Asia.
Make it happen From $US4150 ($6646) a person. See belmond.com
THE ENDLESS SCENERY
The California Zephyr passes stunning scenery.
The train California Zephyr
The great journey This mighty double-decker sleeper train takes two nights to bridge the distance between Chicago, US, and Oakland (for San Francisco).
The great bit It’s amazing just how much stunning scenery this train passes, especially on the stretch between Denver, Colorado, and California. First the Zephyr heads through the Rocky Mountains, at one point passing through a rail tunnel more than 2800 metres above sea level, then spends hours following the stunning red rocky terrain alongside the Colorado River. The next morning it forges its way over the forbidding Sierra Nevada mountain range.
Make it happen From $US858 ($1374) a room. See amtrak.com
THE MIDNIGHT PASSPORT CHECK
A historic train on display in Bar.Credit: Alamy
The train Lovcen, Serbia
The great journey A nation-building project of the former Yugoslavia, the Bar to Belgrade railway took two decades to build through lofty mountains.
The great bit Nightly, the sleeper train named Lovcen departs Bar, Montenegro, on the Adriatic coast, to head north to Belgrade. A coastal stretch and mountain ranges are the highlights before sunset, but after dark the train crosses the international border and you get a knock on the door and passport inspections by border guards – a bittersweet old-school pleasure that’s not much encountered in Europe these days.
Make it happen Couchette accommodation from €30 ($50). See seat61.com
THE LONGEST STRAIGHT TRACK
The Indian Pacific travels the world’s longest stretch of straight track, across the Nullarbor.Credit: iStock
The train Indian Pacific, Australia
The great journey My favourite of Australia’s great train journeys, this transcontinental sleeper train covers 4352 kilometres of fascinating and varied terrain between Sydney and Perth.
The great bit There are plenty of highlights along this coast-to-coast trek, but the most memorable must be the Nullarbor Plain, a vast and empty expanse of exposed limestone bedrock over which the train travels for many hours. Along the way it traverses the world’s longest stretch of dead-straight rail, a whopping 478 kilometres with no bends.
Make it happen From $2995 a person. See journeybeyondrail.com.au
THE SMOOTHEST RIDE
Italy’s Frecciarossa trains travel at up to 300 km/h.Credit: iStock
The trains Frecciarossa high-speed services
The great journey Italy’s sleek red “Red Arrow” trains reach up to 300 km/h, zipping across the peninsula and to neighbouring countries.
The great bit Everything is stylish aboard these trains, from the streamlined scarlet exteriors to the seating and service. If you travel in business class you enjoy wide leather-covered seats, a complimentary drink and snack box including an excellent sweet pastry, and service from attendants with the snappiest uniforms ever seen on rail, including black jackets with red trim, tailored waistcoats and bright red ties.
Make it happen See trenitalia.com
THE SOOTHING SLEEPERS
On board the Caledonian Sleeper.
The train Caledonian Sleeper
The great journey This sleeper train from London to Scotland serves five termini, including Inverness in the beautiful Scottish Highlands.
The great bit There’s something magical about boarding a train in the busy heart of London, eyes drooping as the hour grows late, then going to sleep in your own private room, only to wake in the Scottish Highlands, with its greenery and rolling hills – and is that a deer? – out the window.
Make it happen From £205 ($409) for a room from London to Inverness. See sleeper.scot
THE LONGEST LUNCH
Excellence Class on the Glacier Express.
The train Glacier Express, Switzerland
The great journey This railway between St Moritz and Zermatt is a remarkable achievement, passing through numerous tunnels and bridges and reaching an altitude of 2033 metres.
The great bit In the train’s remarkable Excellence Class (a notch above first class) the spectacular views are matched by delectable food, as passengers are served a seven-course meal of Swiss delicacies and fine wines on the way past rivers, valleys and craggy snow-topped peaks.
Make it happen Excellence class 762 Swiss francs ($1349) or 490 Swiss francs ($867) with a first-class Swiss Travel Pass. See glacierexpress.ch
THE ANCIENT ART EXCURSION
Nitmiluk Gorge, a must-do excursion from the Ghan.
The train The Ghan, Australia
The great journey Australia’s other great transcontinental train heads almost 3000 kilometres from Adelaide to Darwin, taking in varied landscapes and outback culture.
The great bit The scheduled off-train excursion into Nitmiluk, aka Katherine Gorge, in the Northern Territory is unforgettable. The gorge itself is impressive, a contrast of red earth and waterways, but the culmination of the tour, viewing ancient rock art up close with a First Nations guide, is the highlight of the day.
Make it happen From $2840 a person. See journeybeyondrail.com.au
THE GARDEN WITHIN A STATION
The tropical garden inside Atocha railway station. Credit: Getty Images
The trains Services run by Renfe, Spain’s state-owned national railway and other operators
The great journeys Madrid’s grand Atocha Station is right next door to a modern terminal from which high-speed trains arrive and depart to Iberian destinations such as Barcelona, Córdoba, Malaga Seville, Malaga, Cadiz and Granada.
The great bit At ground level at Atocha Station there’s a large undercover tropical garden with palm trees and more than 100 other plant species. There’s something special about wandering through a lush tropical garden in such a busy urban station. Arrive in plenty of time for your train, then wander through the foliage, pausing to take a deep breath and centre yourself for the journey ahead.
Make it happen Free entry. See renfe.com
THE ANTIQUE DINING CAR
Pride of Africa features gleaming heritage carriages.
The train Pride of Africa, South Africa
The great journey This train run by South Africa’s Rovos Rail is a remarkable collection of gleaming heritage carriages that traverse Southern Africa on multi-day journeys visiting destinations such as Botswana, Namibia, Tanzania, Zambia, Zimbabwe, and South Africa itself.
The great bit You’d never guess the carriages were sourced second-hand from across Southern Africa, then restored to prime condition in the company’s Pretoria workshop.
The pride of the train is its pair of dining cars, with gleaming polished timber surfaces, delicate lamps and timber pillars. Dress to impress and savour dishes emphasising local ingredients.
Make it happen A three-night Cape Town to Pretoria journey from 37,500 South African rand ($3246). See rovos.com
THE CHIC PASSENGER LOUNGE
It’s worth travelling in Eurostar’s Premier Class to experience the lounge at Paris’ Gare du Nord.
The trains Eurostar, UK and France
The great journey Though a comparatively short journey, there’s something magical about boarding the Eurostar train in Paris and arriving in London via the Channel Tunnel.
The great bit It’s worth travelling in Eurostar’s Premier Class to experience the lounge at Paris’ Gare du Nord. It’s a beautiful light-filled space with tall arched windows, marble fittings and elegant sofas. At its heart is a sunken circular bar with a barman busily mixing cocktails – the perfect prelude to a sub-Channel train ride.
Make it happen Paris to London in Eurostar Premier Class from €285 ($477). See eurostar.com
THE SMALL TRAIN WITH THE BIG VIEWS
Toy town… Ffestiniog Railway, Wales.
The trains Ffestiniog Railway, Wales
The great journey The oldest operating railway company in the world, the Ffestiniog Railway operates excursions through a scenic part of North Wales. Its trains take 75 minutes to cover the 22 kilometres from Porthmadog’s estuary to the former slate mining town of Blaenau Ffestiniog.
The great bit The trains of this heritage operation wind along narrow-gauge rails high into Snowdonia National Park, starting from an estuary then heading up past villages and fields before tackling thickly wooded slopes. It’s a marvellous combo of small trains and big views.
Make it happen From £49.50 ($99) return. See festrail.co.uk
THE DUAL PEAKS EXPERIENCE
Jasper to Prince Rupert train, Canada.
The train Jasper to Prince Rupert train, Canada
The great journey This regularly scheduled train in western Canada isn’t as famous as luxury trains such as the Rocky Mountaineer, but it passes views that are equally spectacular.
The great bit As the train heads northwest from Jasper it passes between two great mountain ranges, the Rockies and the Cariboos, giving you double the spectacle. The second day of the journey has its own scenic highlights, as the train follows the course of the mighty Skeena River on its way to the Pacific Ocean.
Make it happen From $C163 ($181). See viarail.ca
THE BUTCH AND SUNDANCE MOMENT
The Grand Canyon Railway … where you’ll be held up by fake cowboys.Credit: Daniel Shewmaker
The trains Grand Canyon Railway, US
The great journey Each day the Grand Canyon Railway runs a return train comprising historic carriages to the South Rim of the great geological feature.
The great bit The canyon is fantastic, of course: pure beauty as far as the eye can see. But on the return journey, when weary passengers need a pep up, the train is stopped by armed cowboys on horses and they “rob” the passengers (actually receiving tips since this is America) as they move through the train. It’s a bit of theatrical bonus fun.
Make it happen From $US89.98 ($144) return. See thetrain.com
BETWEEN MOUNTAINS AND DEEP BLUE SEA
The Coastal Pacific runs down the east coast of New Zealand’s South Island.
The train Coastal Pacific, New Zealand
The great journey This train is one of New Zealand’s great rail journeys, passing down the east coast of the South Island past ocean, mountains, vineyards and wildlife.
The great bit Beyond Kaikoura the train passes the mighty snow-capped peaks of the Seaward Kaikoura Range on one side, and the blue expanse of the Pacific beyond the rocky coastline on the other. Step into the open-sided observation car to absorb this sublime passage between mountains and sea.
Make it happen Picton to Christchurch from $NZ239 ($217). See greatjourneysnz.com
THE OUTBACK MORNING SMOKO STOP
The Savannahlander stops off for morning tea along the way.
The train Savannahlander, Australia
The great journey This train into the Queensland outback departs Cairns to run along the Atherton Tablelands line through the scenic Kuranda Range, ending at remote Forsayth.
The great bit On the second day out of this relaxed rail excursion, the driver picks a random stretch of rail at which to halt for morning tea, laying out fruitcake and tea in the shade of the train. You may well see a dingo, emu or wallaby as you sip, creating a special moment in the middle of nowhere.
Make it happen From $1360 return including meals and accommodation. See savannahlander.com.au
THE CLASSIC SOUNDTRACK
The “nowhere train”: Queensland’s Gulflander.Credit: Paul Maughan
The train Gulflander, Queensland, Australia
The great journey Since 1891 the so-called “train from nowhere to nowhere” has covered the 150- kilometre route between Normanton and Croydon in Queensland’s Gulf Savannah country.
The great bit This is an extraordinarily noisy train which rattles along cleverly designed flood-proof rails embedded in the earth. The cacophony is a welcome reminder of a past era of pioneering ingenuity, contrasted with striking outback landscape and the creatures, including wallabies and brolgas, seen during the ride.
Make it happen From $77 one-way. See gulflander.com.au
FIVE MORE FOR THE RAILROADS
For unparalleled Islamic architecture
Now Australians no longer need visas to visit Uzbekistan, travel by train aboard the Treasures of Uzbekistan rail tour operated by the luxurious Golden Eagle, between the nation’s historic cities, with their collections of Islamic architecture from the Silk Road era. See goldeneagleluxurytrains.com
For fabulous autumn landscapes
The Adirondack train between New York City, US, and Montreal, Canada allows passengers to board via the attractive Moynihan Train Hall, recently refashioned from a postal building. It then heads through the beautiful Hudson Valley and past Lake Champlain. The best time to go is autumn, with its golden leaves. See amtrak.com
For Parisian gastronomic glamour
The station restaurant known as Le Train Bleu is not your average transport cafe with plastic-topped tables. Opened in 1901 in Paris’ Gare de Lyon, it’s lavishly decorated with paintings depicting regions of France. The most affordable option is the set “PLM Menu” with three courses for €76 ($127). See le-train-bleu.com
For the heights of luxury
Belmond’s deluxe Andean Explorer train from Cusco, Peru climbs to 4300 metres above sea level, then reaches Lake Titicaca and its artificial islands. It then stops at the Sumbay Caves before arriving at the historic city of Arequipa. See belmond.com
For polar bears beside the track
Take the sleeper train along the 1697-kilometre line from Winnipeg, Manitoba, to Churchill, in the frozen north. A lifeline to remote communities, the railway allows visitors to access activities such as polar bear encounters and views of the Northern Lights. See viarail.ca