The must-do highlights of Bangkok in three days

Bangkok defies metaphor. An enigma wrapped in a traffic jam? The place where feudalism meets futurism? Just step out and surrender to its din and aromas, the combo of urgency and “mai pen rai” (no worries) solutions. This city of 11.5 million people on the Chao Phraya River doesn’t have a clearly defined centre and its hotel accommodation is scattered wide. Which means, depending on your location, think of the following day itineraries as adaptable, mix-and-match suggestions. Hint: cross-city travel can be slow (and hot) so don’t over-plan your day.

Day one

Morning

The Temple of the Emerald Buddha – arrive early to beat the crowd.Credit: iStock

Make an early start for the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew) in the Grand Palace complex, preferably arriving by 8.30am to beat the crowd. It’ll be busy anyway. Spend a couple of hours in this ornate royal compound – but don’t attempt to photograph the tiny Emerald Buddha statue. Make time for the adjacent temple, Wat Pho, home to one of the city’s great icons, the 46-metre Reclining Buddha. Catch a meter taxi to nearby Yaowarat Road, Chinatown, for lunch. (Tuk-tuks in this area are a rip-off.) The grazing choice is enormous, from hawker carts to side-alley restaurants. Try a local favourite, guay chap flat rice noodles in pepper soup, but skip the common “delicacy”, shark-fin soup.

Afternoon

You’re in one of the world’s largest Chinatowns, where the main attractions include Wat Traimit, home to a massive 5½-tonne golden Buddha statue, and to Bangkok’s most important Chinese Buddhist shrine, Wat Mangkon Kamalawat (Dragon Lotus Temple). Then make your way to Sathorn Pier near Saphan Taksin BTS Skytrain station to join the Chao Phraya Tourist Boat. An all-day pass will allow you to hop on and off wherever you please at the ferry’s 10 stops, including Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn), Khao San Road and attractions like the Asiatique theme park.

Evening

Vertigo, the rooftop restaurant at Banyan Tree Bangkok.

Bangkok has around 40 high-rise sky bars, most of them brilliant for sunset cocktails with spectacular views, plus dinner if you kick on. Not far from wherever you are there’s probably a sky bar with an intriguing name like Paradise Lost, Cooling Tower, Vertigo or Flashback. If you’re looking for sophisticated dining at a lower altitude, consider Red Rose in the Shanghai Mansion hotel on Yaowarat Road, or a choice of excellent French, Italian or Cantonese options in the Four Seasons Bangkok Hotel at Chao Phraya River. Or, further inland, the celebrated Bo.lan restaurant in Soi 53 Sukhumvit at Thong Lor.

Day two

Morning

Get an introduction to Siamese-Thai history at Bangkok’s Museum of Siam.Credit: Getty Images

The Museum of Siam, opening at 10am, is an accessible and entertaining introduction to Siamese-Thai history and culture. Kids will enjoy it. With shopping in mind you can head to the giant fashion malls such as Siam Paragon around the Siam BTS station, or to the Ratchaprasong area (via Chidlom BTS) where Ratchadamri Road, running between Rama I and Petchaburi roads, offers upmarket shopping at the Zen, Central World and Gaysorn malls. While you’re there, have a taste of “the real Thailand” at the busy Erawan Shrine in front of the Grand Hyatt Hotel (corner of Rama I and Ratchadamri). Thais from all walks of life pray and make offerings here to its revered, four-faced golden Brahma statue.

Afternoon

The renowned Jim Thompson House is a personal art museum housed in a cluster of traditional teak Thai houses. A showcase of exquisite pieces and the expat founder’s elegant, post-colonial lifestyle, it sits beside Khlong (canal) Saen Saep. This haven of taste and tranquillity is a retreat from the pinball intensity of the city traffic. Whether it’s morning, noon or night, any Bangkok itinerary should include at least one Thai massage, which can range from a one-hour foot rub to a complex, multi-hour treatment. Most hotels have an in-house spa; otherwise, there will be a day spa or salon somewhere in the neighbourhood. Spoil yourself.

Evening

Illuminated Khao San Road becomes a pedestrian thoroughfare at night.Credit: Getty Images

Bangkok – also Krung Thep, meaning “City of the Angels” – is famed for its nightlife, which ranges from those high-rise sky bars down to the “one night in Bangkok” rowdiness of Nana district’s Soi Four. Among the hole-in-the-wall music bars is Tep Bar on the edge of Chinatown, serving cocktails based on Thai spirits. The larger Saxophone Jazz and Blues Pub at Victory Monument has presented live Thai-Latino jazz for decades, plus a mixed dining menu. You’ll find numerous beer bars and big-screen sports bars around Silom Road and Nana. Meanwhile, Khao San Road’s backpacker strip goes traffic-free at night and becomes a walking-eating-drinking party zone. For a more rarefied experience, the Baan Dusit Thani’s Benjarong Bangkok restaurant features heritage, aristocratic Siamese cuisine.

Day three

Morning

Morning shoppers descend on Chatuchak Weekend Market, also known as JJ Market.Credit: Getty Images

Take the SkyTrain north to Mo Chit and the enormous Chatuchak Weekend Market (the “weekend” runs from Wednesday to Sunday). With 15,000 stalls, it is the world’s largest market. Give yourself several hours of exploring, eating and wandering into excess-baggage territory. Or if you’re still in mall mode, head along Sukhumvit to Terminal 21 (BTS Asok) EmQuartier (BTS Prom Phong). For bargains keep an eye on the ground floor of malls, which frequently host pop-up clothes sales. Meanwhile, many malls also have food courts where the variety and quality is well above what you might expect.

Afternoon

One of Bangkok’s great Buddhist shrines, Wat Arun.Credit: iStock

For a change of scenery, spend the afternoon and evening enjoying the west (or Thonburi) side of the river. Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn), dating from the 17th century, is one of the capital’s great Buddhist shrines, with its iconic stupas and intricate murals. Further downriver, the historic Kudijeen (aka Kudi Chin) enclave harks back to the first Europeans settlers in Siam, 16th-century Portuguese traders, missionaries and soldiers. Investigate its narrow soi lanes, church, temples and old teak houses, including Baan Kudichin Museum. Anywhere in Bangkok (or Thailand), if you see an interesting Buddhist temple, feel free to enter. Just remove your shoes and cover your shoulders and knees.

Evening

Anantara’s Manohra floating down the Chao Phraya River.

Still on the west side but downriver, via the Anantara Hotel’s shuttle ferry from Sathorn pier, the most elegant way to dine on the Chao Phraya is aboard the refurbished, century-old rice barge Manohra. It’s a sunset cruise with classical Thai food and music and quality wines. The alternatives are large dinner cruise boats with buffet food and music.

Cap your day by heading to the Millennium Hilton (also on the west bank) and its lofty ThreeSixty Bar for nightcap cocktails and smooth jazz high above the sleepless river.

Tips

Hop aboard the BTS Skytrain and MRT subway systems, including the Airport Rail Link. An unlimited day pass is the best value. Metered taxis are everywhere (make sure the meter is engaged) but if you want to sample the tuk-tuks, be sure to agree on the fare first.

Cash still counts in Thailand. Carry ample Thai baht for taxis, street food, markets and bargaining. You’ll need to show your passport to change money. ATMs are everywhere but foreign account fees are significant, so avoid multiple small withdrawals.

Dress modestly in temples, with knees and shoulders covered. A cheap Thai SIM card can be handy for navigation and local calls. Get a city map. Carry a business card with your hotel name and address.