The ass end of the US, where donkeys rule the Wild West

There’s a traffic jam on an original stretch of Route 66, caused by a bunch of jackasses. Not in a derogatory sense – I mean real asses: cute, furry, long-eared donkeys, or burros as they are known in the Wild West. Here in the northern Arizona ghost town of Oatman, a herd of wild burros rules the roost, wandering the streets at will, begging for food from adoring tourists and enjoying protection under official law as “living symbols of the historic and pioneer spirit of the West”.

One of the locals in Oatman, Arizona.Credit: iStock

Once a boom town with more than 10,000 residents, Oatman’s fortunes diminished when its gold mines were closed during World War II, and its remaining population of just over 100 rely on its fortuitous position on America’s most famous road as well as its authentic Wild West ambience to lure passersby.

Today, more than half a million visitors stop by “the town that refused to die”, to stock up on Route 66 merch, enjoy twice-daily staged shootouts from the wooden boardwalk and contribute to the fortunes of the haunted Oatman Hotel, where every surface of its original saloon is lined with thousands of signed dollar bills.

But by far the most popular attraction in this fun and quirky whistle-stop is the herd of resident burros, descendants of domestic beasts of burden released into the wild after the collapse of mining operations.

Every day, about 10 to 12 jacks, jennies and foals led by alpha male Oliver wander into town from the surrounding Black Mountains, stopping traffic, poking their noses into car windows and generally lapping up attention – particularly if it’s accompanied by pellets of compressed hay, purchased in stores along the main street (other treats such as carrots and apples are strictly discouraged).

In town for the afternoon.Credit: iStock

But be warned – cute as they are, Oliver and his cohorts are wild animals, and have been known to kick or bite hapless admirers. On a good day, however, they are rather placid, amenable to a scratch on the forehead and a photo opportunity if approached with caution, with their wellbeing and health paramount for locals and their Bureau of Land Management overseers.

In fact, the burros of Oatman are so beloved that in 2020, one was dubbed honorary mayor of the town. Walter the Wonder Donkey was adopted and hand-reared by store owners Brad and Kelly Blake after his mother rejected him in 2019, and is now a social media sensation with half a million Facebook followers, two books that tell his story, and official duties that include visiting local schools and retirement homes, and moderating the town’s wacky Bed Races.

Occupying a front yard on Oatman’s main street with another furry adoptee, Betty, Walter lives a life of leisure, accepting pats and pellets over the fence and obliging for selfies with his human fans.

Sadly, not all the 300-odd wild burros living in the Black Mountains have such a happy story, as some suffer from injuries, malnutrition or mistreatment, while some are taken off the land into kill shelters or abusive homes.

Oatman, Arizona is a former gold town.Credit: Getty Images

Fortunately, several kind locals – including the Blakes – have stepped up for these iconic equus asinas, setting up sanctuaries and providing safe homes for animals in need. The Oatman Burros Rehab & Recovery Sanctuary rescues and rehomes rehabilitated donkeys, while Beth Wexler provides a home in nearby Fort Mojave for eight burros with special requirements.

“I didn’t set out to rescue burros, but it has evolved into that over the past few years,” Wexler says. “All my burros are permanent residents, so I will only take in future burros that have medical needs or require special care.

“Outside of Oatman, visitors should not approach or feed the burros – it’s technically a federal offence, though the section dealing with touching or feeding the burros [in the Wild and Free-Roaming Horses and Burro Act] is virtually impossible to enforce as there are a lot of wild, but friendly, burros in this area,” she says.

“The [Bureau of Land Management] does allow the Oatman burros to be fed and petted, however. That’s what makes them such a treasure – where else can you go and interact with a wild animal?”

THE DETAILS

VISIT
Oatman is 47 kilometres south of Kingman, Arizona, on an original stretch of Historic Route 66. It’s usually visited as a day trip, as there is no accommodation in the town. See visitarizona.com

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oatmanburrosrehabandrecoverysanctuary.com
walterthewonderdonkey.com

The writer was a guest of Visit Arizona and Brand USA.