Port guide: Nice, France

The French Riviera has more glamorous towns, but if you want two millennia of history, a down-to-earth attitude and great art museums, this is the one to visit.

Who goes there

Only smaller ships dock at Nice, but that still leaves plenty of premium and luxury options with companies such as Azamara, Ponant, Scenic, Silversea, the new boutique Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection and many more. Some sail itineraries that concentrate on the French and Italian Rivieras, others are on wider western Mediterranean cruises that might originate in Barcelona or Rome.

Nice Old Town.

Sail on in

The sweeping peacock-blue Baie des Anges (the appropriately named Bay of Angels), backed by purple Provencal hills and fringed by plump beaches, creates a fine setting for this city, so get out on the deck for the arrival. A rocky outcrop, topped by a ruined castle and pine trees, is where the ancient Greeks founded the settlement in 350 BCE.

Berth rites

You’ll dock at Quai du Commerce in Limpia port district to the east of the city. You’ll find tourist information, currency exchange and (sometimes) a complimentary shuttle service into town, as well as a string of waterfront bistros and bars. Otherwise, it’s a 30-minute walk around the harbour, or you can hop on a tram into the city centre. If you arrive on a big ship, you’ll anchor at Villefranche-sur-Mer, from which you’ll be tendered ashore. It’s a 20-minute drive into Nice.

Going ashore

Set off around the harbour and over the little hill to the main bay and you won’t be disappointed with the lovely views. Then cut into the Italianate, pastel-coloured old town, stopping first at Cours Saleya for its daily flower market except on Mondays when antiques and bric-a-brac take over. Between old and new town is fountain-splashed Place Massena flanked by pleasant gardens. Sashay onwards and you’re on upmarket shopping street Rue Paradis. The long Avenue Jean Médecin leads you to department stores.

Don’t miss

Nice has more important museums than any French city outside Paris, giving it gravitas amid the French Riviera’s hedonism. Museums are devoted to the artists Marc Chagall and Henri Matisse, while the Musee des Beaux-Arts covers the 19th and early 20th century. But the best might be the bold Museum of Modern Art (MAMAC) which features European and American art and has a terrific sculpture-dotted rooftop terrace.

The Promenade des Anglais at sunset.Credit: Getty Images

Get active

Look no further than Promenade des Anglais, Nice’s famous seaside strip, which runs for six kilometres and is great for strolling, jogging, rollerblading or cycling. At its eastern end a small hillock provides a terrific view over the whole bay and town. A string of beaches allows for swimming and water sports, although some are private, so you’ll pay for the privilege of a parasol and stretch of sand.

Best bites

The eastern end of Promenade des Anglais has a huddle of seafood restaurants. When the market packs up on Cours Saleya, informal eateries spill tables onto the sunny square. For a special treat, head to Michelin-starred restaurant JAN, where South African chef Jan Hendrick van der Westhuizen dishes up an inventive degustation menu that showcases top-notch French ingredients such as Charolais beef, local sea bass and Provencal asparagus.

Further afield

You’ll be spoiled for shore-excursion choice. Head west along the French Riviera to visit Antibes or Cannes, head east, and you can explore microstate Monaco, with its princely palace, ornate casino and pretty, pocket-sized parks. High on cliffs above the Mediterranean is spectacular medieval town Eze. Excursions also take you inland into the hills of Provence, typically to cobblestone, arty St-Paul-de-Vence or Grasse, capital of the French perfume industry.