Not just honeymooners: This spectacular resort welcomes all comers

On the day Collingwood snatches a crucial win from GWS at Melbourne’s MCG, I, too, am among a sea of black and white supporters.

Far from my hometown, in the archipelagic nation of the Maldives, where football is not AFL, I’m flanked by schools of pyramid butterfly fish in the colours of the Pies, swimming in mesmerising formation.

The snorkelling excursion, which in truth is more of a gentle float with the occasional kick of our fins, is thanks to gentle currents around the house reef of the newly open Avani+ Fares resort.

Avani+ Fares sits on a naturally occurring island 40 minutes by seaplane from Male.

Mere steps from our beach villa, one minute we’re wrestling with snorkels and goggles on the water’s edge, the next, we’re in the blue, 25 metres at its deepest, with a dreamy purple-green but still glum-looking Napoleon wrasse swimming among schools of the pyramid butterfly fish, along with yellow flashes of banner fish.

Fares, translated in local Dhivehi to “land on the reef”, is the only resort to sit on the western tip of the Baa Atoll, one of 75 in the group of coral islands.

While the Avani+ demographic in its hotels across the globe might skew towards the millennial, I am clearly not one of those. Still, it’s a little different on the island of Fares. In keeping with the Maldivian spirit of “haharu” or overabundant love, arms are wide open to every guest, be they honeymooner, families or friends.

Sunset dining at Fares’ beachfront restaurant, Charcoal.

Twelve nautical miles further west the Maldives officially ends and international waters begin. Next stop is Africa.

The resort’s edge-of-the-atoll location, coupled with a healthy 220-metre house reef, provide a home for marine life and corals and makes for the easiest access to “pure nature”, says Carmen Dressler, who heads Avani’s water activities arm Aquafanatics.

Communing with nature and the area’s abundant marine life and corals is good for us human beings, says Dressler, a long-time resident of the Maldives.

“It stirs something inside of us. Something which you cannot see or understand.”

This in a part of the world in which no filter is ever needed to make the water appear any more cerulean, any sunset more pink.

Local flavours of this centuries-old trading route feature in the resort’s restaurants, including Charcoal for seafood and steak.

One of the most special experiences, however, is snorkelling with manta rays in Hanifaru Bay on the eastern side of the atoll, which guests access by fibreglass dhoni.

And with a new moon and changing currents, the presence of nutrient-rich plankton is at its greatest in the bay. Word from rangers is that the number of manta rays moving into the area is rising.

Dressler is hopeful for potential sightings for guests set for the next trip, but it’s never a certainty – “it is always up to nature,” she says.

As well as 25 dive sites (and counting), the furthest 25 minutes by dive boat, a manta ray cleaning station, “Fares Manta Point”, is just 10 minutes from the resort.

Beach villas, some with pools, are steps to the ocean, with loungers set up daily by the water.

That evening we’re on the lookout for spinner dolphins at sunset with the all-Maldivian crew – it’s a country requirement that captains of boats are nationals – who remain silent in concentration (aside from the occasional low-sounding dolphin whistle) until they spot a pod.

The dolphins porpoise alongside us before peeling off to the more important meal time of shrimp and squid. Our day ends with a cocktail back at the resort’s sunset-facing pool, the DJ’s ambient beats floating across the water.

Unlike an increasing number of artificial islands that continue to pop up to support the builds of new resorts, Fares is naturally occurring. A former coconut plantation, there’s a palm tree that provides shade in my beach backyard numbered C194, denoting its government-protected status.

The children’s-only 20-seat Petit restaurant at Avani Kids.

On a diminutive space just 650 by 195 metres, the resort also manages a few “firsts” including the 20-seat children’s-only Petit Restaurant at Avani Kids, with a fun water play area. Next door, for the oft-overlooked teens who have outgrown the kids clubs, there’s a space with game stations, foosball and traditional board games including carrom.

Food and drink choices traverse the globe but local flavours of this centuries-old trading route, with African, Indian and Sri Lankan influences, are just as strong.

Smugglers Shack, home to the largest collection of rum in the Maldives.

Start your day at Ocean Terrace with pancakes or Sri Lankan hoppers; poolside under an exposed dhoni-shaped ceiling at open-air Skipjack there are poke bowls with fresh local tuna and Pinsa Parma from the pizza oven; at signature restaurant Charcoal, it’s Tajima wagyu alongside local snapper.

And at Smugglers Shack, home to the largest rum collection in the Maldives, private dinners on the sand in front are a resort speciality.

Across the 176 rooms are multiple configurations and styles – from a seaview studio to a four-bedroom beach pavilion with interconnecting rooms, one of which is fully accessible.

Prime overwater villa territory extends beyond the typical one-bedroom space for honeymooners to two and three bedroom residences where glass-bottomed spaces – bath, dining area and loo included – and lap pools are lined with shimmering mother-of-pearl tiles.

The four-bedroom beach pavilion includes a fully accessible suite.

From here guests can jump off the edge of one of two blue holes for their own aquatic adventure.

Our two-bedroom beach villa, which sleeps three, has (in addition to an internal bathroom) the ultimate holiday indulgence, an outside shower and bath.

While full immersion in Maldivian culture is not entirely possible at a five-star resort, Fares offers glimpses into this nation of 1100-plus islands.

One waiter from nearby Kendhoo laughs that he no longer has days off to himself since moving to this resort and closer to home, pinpointing his island on the Baa Atoll embroidered on the chic resort uniforms.

“My family now wants to see me every week,” he says.

Beyond the runsheet of fantasy island activities – wakeboards, jet-skis and game fishing – you can take a traditional wooden dhoni out and fish using handlines (and if you wish, have staff prepare your catch for dinner the next night).

Just a few days ago at breakfast it was hard to look away as a fellow guest hugged Ocean Terrace staff goodbye. There were tears.

Boarding the speedboat, my farewell face best resembles that sad Napoleon wrasse.

Five more tiny island must-dos

Lounge around
Before takeoff to Fares allow some time in the hotel’s spacious private lounge within the slick Noovilu Terminal to watch the busy seaplane highway.

Gaming
Up your carrom game with expert tips from staff, many of whom have played the South Asian board game since childhood.

Rub-down
While the latest treatments including IV therapy are offered at AvaniSpa a traditional massage and herbal tea in the relaxation area is hard to beat.

Local content
Keep it local with a traditional Maldivian breakfast of mas huni at Ocean Terrace – fresh tuna, coconut, red onion and lime served with roti.

All the moves
Dance lovers can join Royal Ballet-trained Karis Scarlette for a retreat, open to adults and children. November 12-23.

The details

Fly
Singapore Airlines flies four times daily from Sydney and five times daily from Melbourne to Singapore. Singapore to Male flights operate twice daily. It’s a 40-minute seaplane flight from Male to the resort. See singaporeair.com

Stay
Premium ocean view rooms from $US400 ($580) a night including breakfast; two-bedroom beach villa from $US1000 a night. See avanihotels.com/en/fares-maldives

The writer travelled as a guest of Avani+ Fares and Singapore Airlines.