Nine must-see highlights of underrated eastern European city

With a dramatic setting in a plunging river valley, Georgia’s capital Tblisi offers spectacular Orthodox churches, an intriguing range of architecture and the world’s oldest wine culture.

Evening view of Tbilisi and its Peace Bridge.Credit: iStock

The church

Tbilisi is home to dozens of Orthodox churches, including the impressive hilltop Holy Trinity Cathedral (which you should absolutely visit). However, one that’s easily missed is the diminutive Anchiskhati Basilica, which is tucked away near the Gabriadze Theatre in the old town. Not only is it the city’s oldest church, dating back to the sixth century, but every Sunday there’s a mass with Georgian polyphonic singing, a haunting vocal style where multiple melodies are sung in unison. Be sure to observe the dress code, covering shoulders and knees.

The bar

A wine cellar in Tbilisi’s old town.Credit: iStock

Who knew Georgia was the world’s oldest wine region? According to archaeologists, they’ve been making naturally fermented amber wines using underground clay pots called qvevri for more than 8000 years. To get your head around the bewildering array of varietals and styles, book a guided tasting at Dadi Bar, where an expert will explain the main wine regions and let you sample a selection from its range of 200-plus Georgian wines. Tastings from GEL30 ($17). See dadi.wine

The tour

The city centre has lots of colourful street art (look out for Gosha’s cute, cat-themed stencils), but to see the most impressive works, you need to venture further afield. The three-hour Tbilisi Street Art Tour provides a comprehensive overview of the city’s street art scene, starting with its origins at Fabrika, a former sewing factory that’s now a graffiti-covered hostel, before heading into the suburbs to see some of the stunning multi-storey murals that now adorn the bland Soviet-era concrete apartment blocks. Cost GEL100 ($56). See tbilisifreewalkingtours.com

The bridge

There are several bridges spanning Tbilisi’s Kura River, but none are as striking – or as architecturally controversial – as the Bridge of Peace. Built of steel and glass with a curved, wave-like roof, the 150-metre-long walkway was opened in 2010 to provide a pedestrian link between the cobbled laneways of the old town and the manicured lawns of Rike Park. It’s particularly arresting at night, when thousands of LEDs create a shimmering light show that includes a Morse code transmission of the periodic table.

The dish

The boat-shaped Adjarian khachapuri.Credit: iStock

Often referred to as Georgia’s national dish, khachapuri is the generic name for a flat, cheese-filled leavened bread – kind of like a cheesy pizza or naan. There are endless variations but one of the most popular is Adjarian khachapuri, a boat-shaped bread (in honour of the Adjara region on the Black Sea) filled with butter and sulgani (a local brined cheese), then topped with a raw egg. To cook the egg, you mix it with the warm sulgani and then feast on the resulting riot of cheesy carbs.

The statue

Looking up to Kartlis Deda – the Mother of Georgia.Credit: iStock

Not only is Kartlis Deda (Mother of Georgia) Tbilisi’s most striking monument – a 20-metre-high aluminium figure standing proudly on the summit of Sololaki Hill overlooking the city – but it’s also the one that best captures the Georgian spirit. In her left hand, she holds a bowl of wine to greet friends; in her right hand she wields a sword to fight enemies. While you can see her stately silhouette from all over the city, for a close-up view take the cable car from Rike Park to Narikala fortress.

The bathhouse

The distinctive domed roof of Tblisi’s oldest functioning bathhouse, Chreli Abano.Credit: Getty Images/iStockphoto

Legend claims that Tbilisi was founded because of King Vakhtang’s discovery of the region’s natural sulphur hot springs in the fifth century. Fast-forward 1500 years and you’ll find a cluster of distinctive domed bath houses in the city’s Abanotubani district. If you only visit one, make it Chreli Abano. Sure, it’s one of the pricier establishments (from GEL100/$55 an hour), but it’s by far the prettiest, with a colourful Islamic mosaic exterior and a range of opulent private rooms. Feeling brave? Get a “kisa”, a vigorous exfoliating scrub administered with an abrasive mitt. See chreli-abano.ge

The garden

The perfect antidote to the city’s charming but often crowded old town, the National Botanical Garden is a 161-hectare verdant respite in a steep gorge behind the Mother of Georgia statue. Access is via the cable car from Rike Park, and walking and cycling trails allow you to explore the expansive grounds. As well as more than 3500 plant species from all over the world, highlights include a Japanese garden, a greenhouse and an impressive waterfall that tumbles down a steep escarpment. Entrance 4 GEL ($2). See nbgg.ge/en

The street

Despite most of the city being destroyed by a Persian onslaught in 1795, Tbilisi still has an intriguing mishmash of architectural styles – everything from Persian-style bath houses and art nouveau mansions to brutalist Soviet edifices and avant-garde concert halls. Arsena Street provides one of the best snapshots – a short stroll will take you past crumbling stone mansions, Silk Road-style caravanserais, sleek modern apartment blocks and imposing Stalinist behemoths. Just be careful you don’t get whiplash.

One more thing

The Clock Tower and Rezo Gabriadze Theatre.Credit: iStock

Don’t miss the Clock Tower, a whimsical structure in the heart of old town that was built from earthquake debris by celebrated Georgian playwright and puppeteer Rezo Gabriadze. Located near the Baratashvili Bridge, the construction looks like something out of a fairy tale – a crooked, teetering tower supported by a large steel beam. Every hour an angel appears on a balcony to strike a bell and twice a day (midday and 7pm), a screen opens and there’s a sweet boy-meets-girl puppet show.

The writer was a guest of World Expeditions’ 10-day “Transcaucasian Trail Hike Georgia” trip which starts and ends in Tbilisi. See worldexpeditions.com