New luxury hotel offers a taste of France in Melbourne

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Le Splash rooftop pool overlooks the city skyline.

When two luxe new Marriott hotels open within a week of each other in Melbourne, you’d be forgiven for thinking Le Meridien, somewhat of a baby sister to the indisputably more glamorous Ritz-Carlton, might be experiencing a bit of sibling rivalry. But this sophisticated brand, originally created in 1960s Paris to house Air France flight crews, has the personality and playfulness to hold its own (as well as a more affordable room rate). It’s also in a really great part of the Melbourne CBD – although beware of protest marches up Bourke Street to Parliament House causing traffic gridlock.

THE LOOK

The lobby area features mid-century-inspired decor.

Echoing its varied past as a hotel, theatre, cinema and live-music venue, Melbourne architects Peddle Thorp have retained the original art deco facade and added complementary mid-century-inspired furniture and fittings, while art installations feature throughout, including from Melbourne-based Portuguese artist Marta Figueiredo. The lobby’s cafe-cum-wine bar Intermission (with local Axil coffee and signature Le Scoop gelato) plays on the nostalgia theme with green-marble benchtops, theatre lighting and an old-school menu board.

THE ROOM

A premium king room with views of St Patrick’s Cathedral.

The contemporary rooms are in a 12-storey tower behind the original building – try to snag one with views over Parliament House and St Patrick’s Cathedral towards the Dandenong Ranges. They’re thoughtfully fitted out; I liked the wooden desk (perfect for digital nomads) and the round table by the window with two air-force-blue velvet armchairs.

A chic bathroom with acres of marble.

As well as the (now-standard) coffee-pod machine and local snacks in the mini-bar, there was a cute range of books including How to be Parisian and James Halliday’s Wine Companion, and bespoke Everleigh Bottling Co cocktails. The generous bathroom had a spacious, black-framed shower and Malin & Goetz toiletries.

FOOD + DRINK

Dolly restaurant’s design is inspired by the golden age of cinema.

Dolly restaurant, down a spiral staircase from the foyer, is a revelation. Named after the dolly zoom camera technique pioneered by Hitchcock in Vertigo, its nostalgic 1930s design – all sexy curves and columns, booths and fluted chrome – was inspired by the site’s cinematic history.

Beef Wellington at Dolly restaurant.

Chef Christian Graebner’s training in butchery and patisserie comes to the fore in his signature Beef Wellington: O’Connor Gippsland eye fillet with prosciutto, silverbeet and mushrooms wrapped in perfectly buttery pastry. A bombe Alaska filled with popcorn icecream and torched tableside is another theatrical touch. Meanwhile Francophiles will enjoy Dolly’s breakfast buffet, which includes fresh baguettes, wheels of brie and Fromager d’Affinois, frangipane tarts and Bonne Maman jams.

OUT + ABOUT

Being up the Spring Street end of town is a joy. You’ve got Treasury and Fitzroy gardens for a stroll, you’re close to the MCG and there are excellent eateries nearby including Bar Lourinha, City Wine Shop, Grossi Florentino and its Cellar Bar – sit at an outdoor table and channel Europe. (Also keep an eye out for Chris Lucas’s Batard, due to open across the street in early 2024.) Perennial favourite Pellegrini’s is a block away; browse the Hill of Content bookshop, indulge in some shopping on Collins Street or wander north to Carlton and Fitzroy. There’s also a tram stop right out the front of the hotel, if you’re heading further afield.

THE VERDICT

A fab location, a bold sense of fun and creativity, French-accented food and super-friendly staff make this a hotel I’d return to regularly.

THE ESSENTIALS

Rooms from $352 a night. Le Meridien, 20 Bourke Street, Melbourne. See marriott.com

OUR SCORE OUT OF FIVE

★★★★

HIGHLIGHT

It really has to be that rooftop pool if you’re lucky enough to score a sunny Melbourne day.

LOWLIGHT

The shops on either side of the hotel are currently empty or uninspiring – let’s hope new stores are coming soon.

Trudi Jenkins stayed as a guest of Le Meridien, Melbourne.