Hotel review: Hotel Vera, Ballarat, is perfect from bed to breakfast

xxhotelverareview Hotel Vera Ballarat for Traveller Paul Chai Credit: xxhotelverareview

CHECK IN

From check-in to check out, Hotel Vera is an intimate and personal stay with incredible attention to detail from hoteliers David Cook-Doulton and Martin Shew (Hotel Ernest, Bendigo) who have breathed life back into this two-storey, red-brick building from the Gold Rush era. You enter past an opulent flower arrangement in the hallway and are greeted as warmly as if you entered the regal home that it once was. The reception room is packed with books and overlooked by a huge Heather B. Swann artwork about and the effects of industrialisation, an art-first theme that is carried through the rest of the hotel.

THE LOOK

Can a hotel look like a big hug? Perhaps not, but there is a genuine warmth to this sensitive renovation of the 19th-century mansion that has gone to pains to keep the five-metre ceilings, elaborate cornices and original fireplaces and then attentively added what seems to be the perfect art and colour palette to each space. Cook-Doulton and Shew consider themselves custodians of this historic building rather than owners and anything they have removed has been stored in the attic for future use. Technology has been used inventively throughout, including a car stacker at the rear of the property which means they didn't have to knock down an historic outbuilding - the planned spot for a future spa. Sustainability is paramount with a Porsche electric car charger as well. From the under-rail stair lighting to the brass fittings in the bathrooms you can tell that every inch of the place has been agonised over until the perfect solution is found.

THE ROOM

Common areas have been kept deliberately neutral so each room, named for a local region, bursts with appropriate colour as you enter. For Sandon, that means the blue of a local summer sky that is reflected in the over-bed artwork, Heather B. Swann once again with Waterfall. Next to the marble fireplace are two porcelain works by artist Neville French and the huge bathroom used to be a separate room but has now been opened up with a Claybrook bathtub at the centrepiece. There are brass fittings and black trims, with lotions provided by Salus, Melbourne. The mini-bar is curated with housemade cocktails from Melbourne bar Byrdi (try the paperbark martini) local Mitchell Harris bubbles, Chappy's chips and, of course, some Sovereign Hill raspberry drops. The lighting is controlled by a pad next to the bed and has "art light" to highlight the gorgeous works or "bed light" for a more mellow mood.

FOOD + DRINK

Hotel Vera is the new home of Derek Boath's previously hatted Underbar restaurant, which opened in December, weeks after the hotel opening. The brief break Boath took to rehome his baby has only elevated the intimate dining experience. Entering through a door in hotel reception you walk straight into Boath's kitchen, a sleek, gas-free, sustainable design by the chef. There are just 14 seats at Underbar and the table in front of you is lit by a custom-designed lighting feature that wraps around the room and the dishes truly deserve the spotlight. Underbar's cloud-light chawanmushi (egg custard) has made the trip to the new digs with sweet spanner crab and corn but it is a whole, deboned garfish and rice, wrapped in a nori roll with rich prawn bisque sauce, that steals the show. You don't have to dine at Underbar to stay at Hotel Vera, but would you skip the Mona Lisa if you went to the Louvre?

OUT + ABOUT

Ballarat is Gold Rush popular again thanks to a host of makers, bakers, millers and distillers so there is plenty to do in walking distance. Can't get enough of Boath's food? The old site of Underbar is now Pencilmark, a casual wine bar where his team whips up memorable snacks. Pancho is a colourful Latin American diner that makes one of the best micheladas around. Aunty Jack's is a new brewhouse from the local team behind Hop Temple. Kilderkin Distillery is the home of Larrikin gin and a great tasting experience. And if you want to amplify the art theme of Hotel Vera head to the Art Gallery of Ballarat.

THE VERDICT

Just 24 hours at Hotel Vera packs in the spoiling and serenity of a week-long wellness retreat, such is the passion and care that has been invested in this venture from beds to breakfast.

ESSENTIALS

Suites at Hotel Vera are from $399 a night on weeknights, $499 on weekends, including breakfast and "stay & dine" bookings with Underbar are also available. 710 Sturt Street, Ballarat; hotelballarat.com.au

OUR SCORE OUT OF FIVE

★★★★★

HIGHLIGHT

The inhouse dining at Underbar where every table feels like the chef's table.

LOWLIGHT

The lighting touchpad is modern and very cool but can take a few goes to get right.

Paul Chai stayed as a guest of the Vera Hotel.