Greek neighbourhood is an astonishing maze of hidden surprises

Seven wonders of Plaka, Athens

Tucked under the Acropolis, Athens’ Old Town features an astonishing concentration of ruins, museums, tavernas and rooftop gems.

1. Wake up with the Acropolis

Balcony views from AthensWas Design Hotel.

The Old Town has a small concentration of boutique hotels that wrap around the area surrounding the ancient rock like a nymph’s wreath. AthensWas Design Hotel comprises 21 snug, modern rooms and suites on a scenic pedestrian street, Dionysiou Areopagitou. Its sunlit rooftop restaurant SENSE dishes up breezy breakfasts and seasonal, tasting menu-only dinners accompanied by those stellar views. Beg for a window seat. See designhotels.com.

2. Skip the line

The Parthenon now has a cap of 20,000 visitors a day.Credit: Getty Images

Athens is one of Europe’s most underrated capitals, but the storied jewel in its crown has become a highly sought-after treasure for sightseers. Tens of thousands of tourists flock to the feta-like columns of the UNESCO-listed 2500-year-old Parthenon each day, and in 2023, a daily cap of 20,000 visitors was introduced to help prevent over-tourism. To avoid the crowds, visit during the early morning or late evening on a weekday in off-seasons, such as spring. Alternatively, you can book a tour online (acropolis-athens-tickets.com) to gain priority access and jump the queue.

3. Get climbing

Local icon: diners line the Plaka Stairs.Credit: iStock

Delicately woven with vines and bougainvillaea, the Plaka Stairs are something of an icon in Athens’ Old Town. As you meander your way up the narrow marble steps, you’ll find cafes, tavernas and plump stray cats serving side-eye under tables and chairs. Keep climbing and have Google Maps on hand to help navigate your way past street murals to the sleepy, whitewashed neighbourhood of Anafiotika, which is tucked right up under the Acropolis.

4. Find happy hour

A front-row seat to the ruins of Hadrian’s Library.Credit: Getty Images/iStockphoto

The only thing better than a frosty beer in Athens is a frosty beer with a chaser of ruins. Technically wedged between Plaka and the neighbouring ’hood of Monastiraki, Mythos Cafe seems like an unassuming, nondescript spot – that is, until you clock the outdoor tables. The cafe sits opposite the ancient Hadrian’s Library, which originally housed over 17,000 books and scrolls, and its outdoor seats across the street are front row and centre. Happy hour kicks off at 3.30pm.

5. Eat local

Plaka is packed with numerous Greek tavernas.Credit: Getty Images

The only culinary conundrum in Plaka is not where to eat but how to choose. The area is teeming with traditional Greek tavernas with not a whole lot to distinguish between each. Just 10 minutes walk from the Acropolis, family owned koutoukia (basement eatery) Taverna Saita has been in operation since the ’70s, and the traditional homemade recipes have been perfected over decades: everything from grilled squid and lamb to anchovies, moussaka, Greek salad topped with slabs of feta and taramosalata are worth returning for.

6. Visit a museum

A silversmith at work at the Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry MuseumCredit: Alamy Stock Photo

Athens’ most historic pocket is awash with museums, from the Acropolis Museum to the Folk Art Museum. But the Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry Museum displays a spectacular body of work that largely flies under the radar. A homage to the history and art of Greek modern jewellery-making, this intricate museum was established by the late, prominent Greek jewellery designer Ilias Lalaounis, and the permanent exhibition displays more than 3000 ornate pieces and micro-sculptures from 50 collections designed between 1940 and 2002. See lalaounis.com.

7. See outdoor cinema

Cine Paris has the Acropolis as a backdrop.

A concept conceived in 1920 by a Greek hairdresser who had worked in Paris, the open-air rooftop cinema Cine Paris reopened in 2024 in the heart of historic Plaka. Occupying a Mediterranean terrace with views of the illuminated Acropolis, this outdoor spot has an air of je ne sais quoi and hosts two daily screenings from 7pm during summer (they reopen in May this year). Better yet, cocktails are sold on-site. See cineparis.gr.

The writer travelled as a guest of Holland America Line. See hollandamerica.com/en/au