This was published 2 years ago
Cartagena, Colombia, travel guide and things to do: Nine highlights
EMBARGOED FOR LUXURY MAGAZINE, NOVEMBER 2017. South America travel story - Alma Restaurant and Bar, Casa San Agustin, Cartagena in Colombia (handout photo, no credit, no syndication) SatSep17OneandOnlyCARTAGENA ONE & ONLY â CARTAGENA, COLOMBIA by Rob McFarland
THE ONE HOTEL
Ideally positioned in the heart of the UNESCO-listed Old Town, Casa San Agustin, with its colonial whitewashed exterior and ornate wooden balconies, is charming. Rooms are spacious with exposed wooden beams, four-poster beds and tasteful Colombian artworks. Spend your day alternating between the property's L-shaped courtyard pool and rooftop solarium, then head to in-house destination restaurant, Alma, for a memorable seafood dinner.
THE ONE NEIGHBOURHOOD
When you're ready for a change of scene from the often-crowded Old Town, head to Getsemani, a former crime and vice hotspot that's now a hip, edgy district full of lively bars, hole-in-the-wall restaurants and striking street art. Trinidad Square is the district's energetic epicentre, a people-watching paradise surrounded by food carts selling mountainous piles of deep-fried who-knows-what. Grab a $2 cerveza (beer) from the local convenience store and savour the spectacle.
THE ONE ATTRACTION
Credit: iStock
Said to be the mightiest of all Spain's colonial forts, UNESCO-listed San Felipe de Barajas Castle enjoys a commanding position on a hilltop just over the bridge from Getsemani. Built by African slave labour in the 16th century, the fortress is a formidable ensemble of ramparts, parapets and batteries. It's a conversation-killing trudge to the top (bring water) but it's worth it to explore the castle's maze of tunnels and enjoy panoramic views of the city.
THE ONE TOUR
Located on the outskirts of Cartagena, La Boquilla is a ramshackle fishing village where families still explore the shallow, mangrove-lined lagoons using traditional wooden canoes. On a half-day tour with local operator Impulse Travel, a fisherman will teach you how to bait a crab pot and cast a traditional handmade net. Don't worry if you don't catch anything (I didn't), you'll still get to enjoy a delicious seafood feast prepared by a local family.
See impulsetravel.co
THE ONE RESTAURANT
Colombian chefs Jaime Rodriguez and Sebastian Pinzon spent years capturing the forgotten recipes, ingredients and cooking techniques of Colombia's Caribbean coast before opening Celele, an intimate 30-seat restaurant in Getsemani. Don't be fooled by the relaxed vibe, upbeat tunes and simple decor, this is a pioneering, award-winning eatery that will challenge your preconceptions about Caribbean cuisine. Choose the 10-course tasting menu and enjoy the ride.
THE ONE BAR
Credit: Alquimico/Facebook
Housed in a restored colonial mansion, Alquimico is one of those rare venues that lives up to all the hype. Looking for a sophisticated pre-dinner aperitif? Grab a table in the dimly-lit, speakeasy-style ground-level lounge bar. For a more casual vibe, head upstairs for snacks and classic cocktails with a Colombian twist. Ready to party? Hit the Tiki-themed rooftop for DJs, colourful murals and salsa dancing till late.
See alquimico.com
THE ONE CAFE
Resist the urge to visit Colombia's answer to Starbucks (the ubiquitous Juan Valdez chain) and hunt out Abaco Libros y Cafe instead. Featuring tiled floors and exposed brick archways, this atmospheric bookstore/cafe offers a welcome respite from the clamour and crowds outside. It also serves excellent coffee made using beans from Colombia's acclaimed Hacienda Samaria. Feeling adventurous? Try a carefully crafted cold brew cocktail.
See abacolibros.com
THE ONE DAY TRIP
Sadly, Cartagena's beaches aren't the pristine, palm tree-dotted nirvanas one might expect in the Caribbean. For this you need to visit the Rosario Islands, an idyllic archipelago 100 kilometres off the coast. Hotel San Pedro de Majagua offers daytrips from Cartagena, which include use of the resort's two private beaches, a delicious lunch and the option to kayak or snorkel in the surrounding national marine park.
See hotelmajagua.com
THE ONE SQUARE
You'll discover numerous squares scattered throughout the Old Town, but few are as appealing as Plaza de Bolivar. Centred around a bronze statue of Simon Bolivar, the Venezuelan military leader who liberated much of South America from Spanish rule, it's a small, shaded square that attracts an eclectic cast of musicians, painters, street vendors and dancers. Surrounded by elegant colonial mansions, it's the perfect place to pause and ponder.
ONE MORE THING
Cartagena is always hot and humid but it gets unbearably so between May and September. Visit from December to April for (marginally) cooler temperatures, less rain and the occasional life-saving sea breeze.
Rob McFarland was a guest of Aurora Expeditions (auroraexpeditions.com.au), Colombia Tourism (colombia.travel) and Impulse Travel (impulsetravel.co).
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