Australian-owned Pacific resort makes a comeback after devastation

It’s late afternoon when a local fisherman turns up in his runabout. Hurling an enormous anchor overboard, he’s met on the beach by the chef from Aore Island Resort, wiping his hands on his apron. After a brief exchange, he makes his selection, carrying tonight’s dinner – literally plucked from deep waters nearby – back to the kitchen. Much of the catch is still wriggling but not for long.

Aore Resort from the water.

Within hours, we’re dining on some of that spectacular haul – a whole baby fish baked in banana leaf, with sand between our toes at the Australian-run resort. The same fisherman returns later in the week, as do others when the weather isn’t blowing, with a prized lobster catch.

Set a short boat ride off Vanuatu’s largest island Espiritu Santo (Spanish for “the Holy Spirit” and commonly called Santo) Aore offers guests not only the chance to experience ocean and farm to plate dining but an authentic slice of Pacific life too.

Owned by the Gray family, the 18-bungalow resort has overcome significant challenges since 2020, including pandemic lockdowns and border closures and a category five cyclone that not only washed away the jetty, but destroyed bungalows, caused major structural damage and left Aore’s tropical gardens in ruins.

The Grays, along with Aore’s 50 staff, rebuilt it, and today you’d never know the resort fell directly in Cyclone Harold’s path.

The resort from the air.

Along with a new jetty, a secondary nakamal (the restaurant’s dining room), beachfront bar and pizza oven, all guest bungalows have had a refresh. To say the Grays were excited to welcome back guests last year is an understatement and despite Vanuatu’s two-and-a-half-year long border closure, the charming resort is once again filled with happy guests.

While many come to Santo to dive the SS President Coolidge (thought to be the world’s largest and most accessible wreck dive) and explore the island’s World War II relics, opportunities abound to connect with the fascinating Ni-Vanuatu culture.

“Guests can experience firsthand local customs and witness captivating rituals - whether it’s traditional dance or listening to stories passed down through generations,” says Montana Gray whose parents Lisa and Brad own the resort. In 2020, Montana married a local Ni-Vanuatu man who is now part of Aore’s team and the couple are expecting their first child in October.

“Guests can learn traditional crafts such as weaving or coconut milk making from local artisans. These hands-on activities not only encourage guests to slow down and be creative but offer the chance to interact with local women who carry on these age-old traditions.”

Before dinner one night, we have front-row seats to yet another fascinating local custom performed by women. Sundowners in hand, we watch from the shore as the “water music” women and girls from Lewatan Village perform a passionate routine that emulates drums by slapping the water. Dressed in clothes woven from the leaves of the jungle and standing waist deep in the ocean, the women and girls pummel and punch the water emulating the sounds of a big swell, a waterfall and boiling water.

Snorkelling off Aore Resort.

There are other memorable moments. We swim in Santo’s amazing Blue Holes with their beautiful fresh water the colour of sapphires. Afterwards, we sink our toes into the squeaky white sand of Champagne Beach and dine on freshly grilled fish at a rustic beachfront bar at Port Orly. On our last day, we take the resort’s fat wheel bikes for a spin, stopping for coffee at a small local roaster. We pass grazing cows and wave at friendly locals returning from church, feeling like we’ve caught a glimpse into Vanuatu’s fascinating Melanesian culture.

The details

Fly
Air Vanuatu operates weekly direct flights on Thursdays between Brisbane and Luganville, Santo. The airline also flies direct between Sydney, Melbourne and Port Vila with connections to Luganville. See airvanuatu.com

Stay
Rates at Aore Island Resort start from $340 a night in a studio beachfront bungalow and $399 a night in a one-bedroom beachfront bungalow including daily continental breakfast and return airport transfers (when booked direct the use of kayaks, stand up paddleboards and bikes are included). Bungalows are rustic yet stylish and located steps from Aore’s own private reef. While tropical breezes keep things pleasant most of the year, summer is particularly humid and bungalows are not air-conditioned. See aoreislandresorts.com

The writer was a guest of Aore Island Resort.