The ultimate WA road trip should include these towns off the beaten track

When West Aussies head down south for a break, Walpole is often just one bakery stop too many for holiday-goers.

We want to be able to crack the first beer or wine about three hours from pulling out of the driveway, so the quaint township in the Great Southern region, just over 400 kilometres from Perth, doesn’t get the kudos it deserves.

Four out of the five holiday companions of Foster’s – Frankie Foster, Aislinn Cranfield, Finlay Foster and Cristina Skelton.Credit: Brendan Foster

While I have nothing against cautiously swaddled beings happily basking in deckchair tourism, if you want to absorb nature in its wondrous, sparkling glory then the five-hour trek to Walpole is worth every torturous game of I Spy.

Its vast and expansive wilderness covers over 3500 square kilometres and includes breathtaking beaches surrounded by towering forests and rugged limestone cliffs that look like the location for a Jurassic Park movie.

Around 20 kilometres east, sitting atop spectacular granite headlands, Conspicuous Cliff gives you one of the most mind-boggling views of pristine coastline anywhere in WA.

I became so bewitched by the aqua ocean I momentarily denounced my non-secular ways to worship Benthesikyme, the Greek Goddess of Waves.

Even migratory whales find the majestic cliffs and white sand hypnotic, with many species swinging past the southern coast between May and November.

If you prefer smaller critters, the only population of Quokkas still on the mainland is in the Walpole-Nornalup National Park.

These much-loved marsupials aren’t as dozy as their Rottnest cousins so it’s best to avoid taking a selfie – there is a good chance you might get half your nose bitten off.

And, if you want to get a closer look at nature’s majesty, you can take a stroll among some of the tallest timber on earth with the Valley of the Giants Treetop Walk.

It’s hard not to feel an emotional tempest swirling inside as you venture deep into the centuries-old forest.

Conspicuous Cliff in Walpole.Credit: Brendan Foster

If you haven’t yet overdosed on the Japanese practice of Shinrin-yoku (forest bathing), there is a tiny township one hour north of Walpole called Quinninup.

You won’t find this place in any Lonely Planet travel guides and if you sneeze at the wrong time, there is a good chance you will miss the turn-off on the South Western Highway to this sleepy hamlet.

During the 1930s, its timber mill was said to be the biggest in the state but when the industry went belly up the settlement was all but dismantled.

There is a still a few charming workers’ cottages left standing for those who want to stay in an authentic old mill house but as there were six of us, we settled for a more palatial Airbnb overlooking Karri Lake.

Since the lake was opened for recreational activities in 2021, it has become popular with kayakers, canoeists and swimmers who are warmly welcomed by marauding marron.

Each morning, we were greeted by kangaroos, emus and a colourful collection of native birds including a riot of kookaburras perched on the railings of our accommodation.

The kooky kingfishers had a menacing look in their big doleful eyes that hinted: “If you don’t feed us this instance, we are slowly going to rip your loved ones to shreds”.

To overcome your newfound ornithophobia (fear of birds), there are several hiking trails where you can marvel at the magnificence of ancient forests that form part of the Bibbulmun Track.

If you’re an imbecile that must detail every idyllic moment of a holiday on social media, Quinninup Falls is a four-kilometre stroll from the town for those craving an Instagrammable moment.

Like many towns down south, there are several top-notch eateries and wineries to choose from that sell local produce, but if you wanted to snaffle a Waygu beef burger or grab a mocha with almond milk, you will be a tad disappointed, as the only joint selling food in this whistle-stop is the pub.

The newly built tavern has a decent selection of tap beers and home cooking and, you guessed it, it overlooks a lush forest.

Manjimup or Pemberton are only a 20-minute drive if you have the ungodly desire to reconnect with humans.

Walpole and Quinninup might not be the first choice of destination for many sandgropers wanting to get away for a long weekend, but if you’re happy to keep the booze on ice for an extra hour the extended sojourn to these unassuming towns is well worth it.

And if bushwalking, bird watching, fishing, canoeing, kayaking, white water rafting and beach walking aren’t your cup of tea, simply climb to the top of Conspicuous Cliff and leap off.

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