What it is: The chunky sports sandal, AKA flat-bed sandal, flatform, "ugly" sandal.
What does it replace? If the barely there, dental-floss stylings of the Bottega Veneta heeled thong made it the most-wanted shoe of 2019, the chunky sandal is its 2020 antithesis. Made with an over-foot strap of leather, nylon (like a car seat-belt) or another fabric such as printed cotton, the backbone of this style is its sole; regardless of designer or price point, it's almost always made from lightweight rubber. Think foam roller material in a shoe and you're on point.
Take us back further: The chunky sandal's etymology includes the Teva, which was invented in the early 1980s by geophysicist Mark Thatcher (no relation to the son of the former UK Prime Minister) when he noticed there were no appropriate shoes on the market for water activities such as rafting. The original Teva had a more thong-like strap between the toes but the present-day basic model, which has spawned hundreds of copycats, has an over-toe strap. Birkenstock, the famous German orthopaedic shoe, is also an inspiration for many modern styles. Once derided as the domain of soy milk-drinking, share house-living university students, former Celine designer Phoebe Philo put models in Birkies on the runway in 2013. You can guess what happened next.
Why now? The "ugly" shoe trend has been gaining momentum for some time, and has given us the Croc, the "Dad sneaker" and the rubber pool slide. If there's anything the pandemic has taught us (aside from the 24/7 potential of track pants), it's that comfort and versatility are the new non-negotiables when it comes to style. The sporty sandal straddles these criteria and looks good with everything from an oversized pant suit to a floaty picnic dress. Wearing with jeans or a tailored skirt poses a higher degree of difficulty but don't let that deter you. Melbourne Fashion Week stylist Sarah Banger sees the sandal as a great sneaker alternative "now that walking with friends and picnics in the park are a greater part of our social lives". "The juxtaposition can make feminine silhouettes, such as a floaty dress, look effortless, and they also look modern with spring-summer tailoring."
The trend leaders: Remember the Olsen twins from the TV sitcom Full House? Well, they're in their 30s now and co-founders of a highly successful (and eye-poppingly expensive) brand called The Row. Their shoes regularly become cult Instagram hits and celebrities and mortals with enough cash – they cost more than $1000 – often turn to personal shoppers/bounty hunters such as Australian Gab Waller to source a hard-to-find pair. Other styles that are also rare include Chanel's Dad sandals, though there are plenty of affordable imitators of both styles.
Who is wearing it? Everybody. Fans of the Chanel version include model-designer Alexa Chung, while media personality Nadia Bartel is a fan of Fendi, whose chunky rubber sandals sell for about $1200 (the leather logo ones Bartel owns cost slightly more).
Do I need it? Pros: they are super comfortable and you don't need to claw your toes like in a traditional thong or slide. Cons: your feet might look like two speed boats clumping along the footpath. On balance, it's a yes. And your podiatrist will thank you, too.
Where do I get it? All the major international designer brands have their own versions (see also Marni, Ganni). Locally, Melbourne brand Twoobs makes water-safe sandals from vegan materials in popping colours, while for something more classic, hit up Alias Mae. Even Country Road and Tony Bianco have versions for about 10 per cent the price of the Fendis. Of course, if you're a purist, there's always Teva and Birkenstock. Sometimes you can't beat the original.
Is there a trend you're not sure if you need? Email melissa.singer@smh.com.au