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The overlooked and underrated tropical holidays that are not Bali

By Craig Tansley
This story is part of the September 8 edition of Sunday Life.See all 14 stories.

Palawan, Philippines

Australians have for years flocked to Bali, Thailand, Malaysia and, more recently, Vietnam. But the Philippines failed to register with Australian tourists. Yet there are more than 7500 islands spread across 300,000 square kilometres of ocean. The best of them all is Palawan, the westernmost island. Most international travellers have heard of Boracay (350 kilometres east), but it’s Palawan that’s home to Asia’s best beaches, including Hidden Beach, consistently voted one of the world’s best (it’s four kilometres long, surrounded by limestone cliffs, and you can only access it via a hole in the rocks). Fly to El Nido, 90 minutes from Manila by air, where you’ll find the highest concentration of pristine beaches, a range of beach resorts – including private island retreats – and beachside bars, with none of the traffic chaos of Kuta and Seminyak.

Palawan in the Philippines provides pristine beaches with no traffic chaos.

Palawan in the Philippines provides pristine beaches with no traffic chaos.Credit: Marta Muñoz-Calero Calderon / St

Phu Quoc, Vietnam

Travel agents have been calling Phu Quoc the new Phuket for 15 years, but this tiny island an hour’s flight south of Vietnam’s biggest city, Ho Chi Minh City, is far from it. Though a newish international airport has driven numbers up, over half the island is protected within a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and most locals earn their living from fishing and agriculture, not serving us cold beer. But there’s enough of a tourist scene along its famously white sand beaches (it’s dubbed Pearl Island) to create a vibe. There are chilled-out beach bars up and down 20 kilometres of its longest beach (called… Long Beach) all with perfect views of a watery sunset each evening. There are now five-star resorts and wine bars, but also tree-lined beaches hidden at the end of dirt roads with potholes that could destroy your suspension.

Koh Phayam, Thailand

No, not Koh Pha Ngan (the full moon party island), Koh P-h-a-y-a-m. How this perfect little Thai island has stayed off our collective travel radars may well be Asia’s biggest secret. It’s not hard to get there, either – just take a 75-minute flight from Bangkok and a 40-minute speed boat ride. Located in Thailand’s far north-western corner next to Myanmar, Koh Phayam is Bali 30… no, 40 years ago. Most of its locals – and there are barely 500 – still live off cashew and rubber plantations or fishing, but there’s a reliable offering of very rustic beach bars and restaurants on its two main long white sand bays (including one bar that looks like a ship, right on the high tide mark, serving great margaritas). There are no cars or paved roads, so rent a scooter and get lost. Try diving, surfing (it’s good for beginners), hike, do beach yoga or just stare at the ocean.

Sao beach in Phu Quoc island, Vietnam.

Sao beach in Phu Quoc island, Vietnam.Credit: HuyThoai

Perhentian Islands, Malaysia

These two small islands off the north-east coast of Malaysia are known by very few, yet the name itself is enough to make hardened travellers misty-eyed. The Shangri-La of island destinations, little is known of them – just the concept of something magical. That’s partly because they’re hard to access; you’ll have to fly from Kuala Lumpur, take a taxi and then a private boat for 30 minutes. The islands still feel like a time before mass tourism took over so much of South-East Asia – there are no roads, and barely any Wi-Fi or phone connectivity. Instead, you’ll find Fiji-like clear blue water, lush green forest and beaches every bit as perfect as anything Thailand can offer. There are two islands to choose between – the larger island offers luxury villas, the smaller is for budget travellers. Hike through jungle to find leaf monkeys, or just spend days swimming, and eating and drinking at restaurants on the sand.

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Raja Ampat, Indonesia

Keep going beyond Bali (or fly from Darwin if you book a live-aboard expedition dive boat) to the northwest tip of West Papua. Here you’ll find the most pristine marine wilderness left on Earth. Water lovers will be in heaven: Raja Ampat’s remoteness keeps it unpolluted. In this archipelago of 1500 islands you’ll find 75 per cent of the world’s marine species – including 540 types of corals, 1800 reef fish species and 17 species of marine mammals living in the world’s most diverse coral reef ecosystem. The forests here are full of species that you won’t find anywhere else on the planet, and you can sleep in homestays among the trees. Luxury options are available too – or take a live-aboard dive boat ride across the archipelago. Fly from Bali, then take a two-hour boat ride.

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