The island getaway with no big hotels but worthy of a visit
By Ute Junker
Coral reefs. Forests studded with springs and waterfalls. Beaches with not another soul in sight. If you are looking for a getaway where you can immerse yourself in nature, Christmas Island is hard to beat.
A typical day on Christmas Island may include turtle spotting, snorkelling and dining on that day’s catch.Credit: Christmas Island Tourism Association
It’s true that getting to Christmas Island – an external territory of Australia that sits closer to Jakarta in Indonesia than Perth – takes a little planning, but there are now twice-weekly flights from Perth (flying time, about four hours).
What awaits once you land is a destination unlike anywhere else in Australia. Two-thirds of the island is designated national park, and a typical day may include turtle spotting, snorkelling and dining on that day’s catch.
Given the island’s remoteness, it is not surprising there are no big hotels. The majority of accommodations are simple; the most indulgent offering is Swell Lodge, which consists of two eco-chalets with stunning ocean views and a talented chef who cooks dinner each night with ingredients he has foraged from the forest and the ocean.
Equally unusual in a wider world where tourists are often seen as a nuisance, this island still embraces visitors. The population of about 1700 people is mainly a blend of Chinese, Malays and ex-mainlanders, most of whom live around the picturesquely named settlement of Flying Fish Cove.
What really sets Christmas Island apart, however, is its distinctive ecosystem. Among my favourite spots is The Dales, on the island’s west coast, where a series of streams flow out of underground caves into the ocean, carving out natural terraces along the way.
At Hughs Dale, the forest shrouds an enchanting waterfall. At Darling Dale, the magical rock pools that appear at low tide offer a lovely way to cool off.
The island’s most famous natural attraction is its annual red crab migration, which kicks off at the start of the wet season (usually around October or November). However, you don’t need to wait for the migration to see crabs: Christmas Island is awash in them, with more than 20 species occupying different niches.
Red crabs are particularly plentiful. Driving along the road we regularly have to stop the car and push them out of the way. Apart from red crabs, you will also see plenty of robber crabs, huge creatures with bodies that grow up to 40 centimetres long. My favourites are the blue crabs, shy creatures with pearlescent shells in gentle blues. They tend to cluster near freshwater springs, often hiding behind some sheltering object.
The ocean is also awash in life. The Indian and Pacific Ocean currents meet here, so the narrow fringing reef surrounding the island, as well as the deeper waters beyond, teem with all sorts of fish, from colourful angelfish to wrasse, cod, grouper and pelagic species such as tuna, wahoo, sailfish, marlin and swordfish.
There are dozens of excellent dive sites around the island, but even sheltered Flying Fish Cove can be a great place for snorkelling.
Finally, keep an eye out for the green turtles that nest on the island throughout the year. The best spots to watch the turtles laying eggs, or marvel as the hatchlings emerge from the sand and head for the waters, are Dolly and Greta beaches. Just remember to keep your distance to avoid disturbing these beautiful creatures.
The writer was a guest of Swell Lodge.
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