Expect the unexpected in this most seductive city
By Ute Junker
You have heard about the snake charmers, of course. Everyone who comes to Marrakech wants to see the snake charmers. Fortunately, finding them is easy. Just head to Djemaa el-Fna, the square at the heart of the old medina that springs to life every sunset. Amid the bustle of the countless barbecue stands, acrobats and fortune-tellers, those mesmerising reptiles and their handlers are easy to spot.
Le Jardin Secret in Marrakech is two gardens, a traditional Persian garden and one featuring exotic plants, all fed by an ancient irrigation system.Credit: Shutterstock
Beyond that, almost everything you do in Marrakech is likely to be a surprise. This improbable city – sitting on the edge of the desert, yet ringed by snowcapped mountains during winter – has seduced travellers for centuries by revealing her charms carefully. Marrakech is a city of plain exteriors and lush interiors, both timelessly traditional and utterly contemporary.
Want to feel the history? Then head straight for the Saadian Tombs. Constructed in the 16th century by Sultan Ahmad al-Mansur, they are head-spinningly ornate, decked out with lashings of Carrara marble and a gilded ceiling of honeycomb muqarnas. The sultan’s Badi Palace was once equally luxurious but its picturesque ruins, with their huge reflecting pools, are still worth a visit.
The Bahia Palace is in much better shape. Owned by a slave who worked his way up to the exalted position of vizier, its rooms are magnificent, especially those belonging to the vizier’s favourite concubine, Lalla Zineb.
The Ali Ben Youssef Madrasa is an outstanding example of Islamic architecture, and Le Jardin Secret, a lush oasis hidden inside the shell of an old palace, is an absolute highlight. There are two gardens, a traditional Persian garden and one featuring exotic plants, all fed by an ancient irrigation system that funnels water all the way from the High Atlas mountains.
Time your visits in the early morning so you can savour the serenity. The same applies to the Jardin Majorelle, the former home of French fashion legend Yves Saint Laurent and his partner, Pierre Bergé. The building, painted a vivid shade of ultramarine, is surrounded by a sculptural desert garden filled with cacti and palms.
Stop in at the Berber Museum, which contains Saint Laurent’s collection of Berber clothing and jewellery, and the Musée Yves Saint Laurent, where the boldly hued fashions reveal how Morocco’s penchant for colour influenced the designer. Next door you’ll find Moro, a concept store featuring contemporary Moroccan designs as well as a charming courtyard cafe and a handful of accommodation rooms.
A short walk away, the Gueliz neighbourhood is great for gallery hopping. Morocco’s creative scene
is booming; check out some of the talent at places such as Comptoir des Mines and Musée MACMA.
If that doesn’t sate your appetite for design, head to Sidi Ghanem, a former industrial area on the outskirts of the city where you’ll find everything from artisanal rugs to designer candles. Studio Lid has a rich selection of rugs, both vintage and contemporary, while Poterie Serghini offers artisanal ceramics and Maison Sarayan is great for all kinds of exquisite objets for your interiors, not to mention a delightful al fresco restaurant.
Don’t forget to spend time meandering through the atmospheric medina. Start in the Mouassine neighbourhood, where you can browse chic boutiques and stop in for a quality coffee at Bacha Coffee before plunging into the chaos of the souk.
When it comes to food and drink, there are plenty of great choices including Sahbi Sahbi for classic Moroccan cuisine, Petanque Social Club with its gorgeous garden vibe, and +61, where the mod-Mediterranean food has a distinctly Aussie sensibility courtesy of restaurateur Cassandra Karinsky.
Try to roll with the local habit of eating late – it’s all part of getting in step with the town, along with the pleasures of a steam bath in a hammam and a pomegranate juice savoured at sunset on one of Marrakech’s many rooftop terraces.
Perhaps the most important decision is where to stay. The medina is all about high energy and an exotic ambience; the luxe hotels further out offer a respite from the frenzy. Many visitors split their stay between the two. In the medina, the gorgeous Izza riad is an inviting labyrinth that’s home to a world-class art collection; further out, the Fairmont Royal Palm Marrakech has extraordinary grounds that include the city’s largest swimming pool.
The writer was a guest of Izza and Fairmont Royal Palm Marrakech.
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