This was published 1 year ago
Black tie for canapés and cocktails? How uninviting
By Melissa Singer and Anna-Lisa Backlund
Actor Lily Collins in Ralph Lauren.Credit: Getty Images
Recently, I received a cocktail-party invitation from a large retailer. Buried at the bottom were three words that, in this post-lockdown era, always elicit an audible groan from my now-unmasked lips: “Dress: black tie”. Did the hosts really mean for guests to come in a dinner suit (men) and a long gown (women) – which is the purest definition of the dress code – at 6pm on a winter Wednesday night? Or did they mean to write “No denim”, in which case, why not say just that?
Ah, dress codes, those curly-wurly words that can throw even the most assured of dressers into a fishtail-hem spin. What’s the difference between “cocktail” and “formal”? In a world where sneakers are acceptable office attire, what does “smart-casual” even mean? And what in heaven’s name is “lounge suit”? I’ve never figured it out, either.
On paper, at least, black tie is pretty straightforward. Pre-pandemic, I could probably count the number of bona fide black-tie events on the social calendar on one hand (Brownlow, Dally M, Logies, NGV Gala, plus the odd society wedding). Now, the number of black-tie invitations gracing my inbox is out of control. It’s as if people are no longer content with just being able to get together again: events must be elevated to “gala” status.
Former Miss Universe Australia Maria Thattil nailing the black-tie brief.Credit: Getty
I love a party as much as the next gal, but please don’t make me dig out my ball gown every time you whip out a tray of canapés. Taffeta isn’t the natural antidote to trackpants; just because we can black tie doesn’t mean we should.
And so, in the spirit of New York Magazine’s Urban Etiquette Handbook (example, “If someone’s wearing a mask, don’t ask why”), I propose this simple, “Is black tie really warranted here?” checklist:
1. Are guests expected to stand the whole time? If so, the answer’s no.
2. Is the event at a time that allows “normal” people to adequately prepare? I’m not talking about influencers, who are often paid to be preened by an army to attend parties. I mean “normies”, those of us who have to shimmy into a full-length dress in the office toilets. Black tie at 6pm on a weeknight? No thanks.
3. Are you just doing it for the ’gram? Get with it. It’s all about TikTok now, anyway. Melissa Singer
Tips for nailing a black tie brief
Accessorise
The Olga Berg bag “Bianca” bag and the Christie Nicolaides “Daniella” ring.
Accessorise your way out of having to buy a new frock like Kate, Princess of Wales. She wore the same McQueen dress to the 2019 and 2023 BAFTAs, updating her most recent look with earrings, opera gloves and a new clutch. This Olga Berg “Bianca” bag, is an affordable start, plus the brand has been black tie-approved by many celebs, including Kate’s favourite sister-in-law, Meghan.
Where to buy: Olga Berg “Bianca” bag, $90. Christie Nicolaides “Daniella” ring, $319.
Hand-draped design
Acler’s “Rosella” gown.
Hand-draping fabric on a mannequin is the starting point of the design process for Australian fashion label Acler. Unlike digital design, this technique, widely used in luxury couture houses, zeroes in on a garment’s shape and movement.
Where to buy: Acler “Rosella” gown, $695 (pre-order).
Let it flow
Carl Kapp’s “Lindera” dress, Camilla and Marc’s “Vigo Heel” sandals and Fairley’s golden seashell drops.
If the idea of formal wear is so burdensome you’d rather just stay home, consider a flowing look in a luxury fabric. Carl Kapp’s draped taffeta sateen dress works just as well on the red carpet as at a stylish garden party. It’s also a great silhouette for plus-sized party-goers who quail at the prospect of exposed arms. Style with strappy heels and bold jewels for the evening or a pair of well-made flats for a daytime do.
Where to buy: Carl Kapp “Lindera” dress, $2495; Camilla and Marc “Vigo Heel” Sandals, $350 (on sale); Fairley golden seashell drops, $299. Anna-Lisa Backlund
To read more from Good Weekend magazine, visit our page at The Sydney Morning Herald, The Age and Brisbane Times.