Aquaporins, salmon sperm: a guide to the latest skincare ingredients

The latest ingredients making noise on the skincare front are sure to get people talking. They are “aquaporins” and salmon sperm. As 54-year-old Jennifer Aniston, an early adopter of the salmon-sperm facial, said in an interview, “Are you serious? How do you get salmon’s sperm?”

Actor Jennifer Aniston admitted in an interview to trying out the latest salmon sperm facial.Credit: Getty Images

Let’s start with the more palatable aquaporins. They are moisture-moving proteins, which are brilliant for dry skin and naturally present in skin-cell membranes. These proteins allow water molecules to flow in and out of cells, enabling osmosis where substances move from areas of higher concentration to lower concentration, until balance is achieved on both sides.

In the case of cell dehydration, if the water concentration inside the cells is lower than the outside, water will flow into the cell, thereby regulating water balance and restoring hydration. Aquaporins reduce as we age (of course they do), and this reduction also happens in skin conditions, such as eczema and psoriasis. In these cases, aquaporins can’t assist with hydration for your skin as effectively as before. Dermatologist Carmen Castilla reveals, “The only way to increase the number of aquaporins in the cell membrane would be for the cell to produce more.”

Aquaporins have a vital role in keeping skin hydrated. Unlike humectants such as hyaluronic acid, which retain water externally, aquaporins maintain the skin’s natural moisture balance by facilitating water movement in and out of the cells. They also play a crucial role in preventing moisture loss and helping to maintain a healthy skin barrier.

Skincare ingredients that may increase aquaporin production include glyceryl glucoside, found in the Kate Somerville HydraKate skincare range, but the jury is still out on the evidence. For best hydrating results, complement glyceryl glucoside with hyaluronic acid products to help address moisture levels.

Now onto the salmon sperm. According to research published in the journal Pharmaceuticals in 2021, polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN), which is extracted from the sperm cells of salmon, helps improve healing and reduces inflammation in wounds.

To get a feel for this product if you’re in Sydney, The Clinic is offering a treatment that combines the new Ultraformer MPT with the salmon DNA (treatments start at $880).

Ultraformer MPT is a non-surgical, non-invasive device that targets face and neck tightening. It works by stimulating regenerative processes with ultrasound energy to increase collagen production and to contract existing collagen fibres, with minimal pain. This is followed by an application of the sperm DNA. The combined treatment lasts for about an hour and results in tighter, plumper skin. There is also an injectable filler form of the salmon DNA that has just launched. Watch this space.

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