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Pulling power: 10 melty cheeses ranked for ooze and stretch

Ellie Studd shares the golden rules for making the perfect cheese toastie — many strings attached.

Ellie Studd

My passion for meltability and cheese toasties knows no bounds. I’m so passionate about this topic that my brother, Sam, has a secret signal (a slow stamp on my toes) to let me know when I’ve dived too deep into the topic during polite conversation. Usually, it’s when I start pontificating on the perfect pH for cheese melting. Fear not, I promise not to take you down that rabbit hole here.

The ultimate cheese toastie needs the perfect pull factor.
The ultimate cheese toastie needs the perfect pull factor.
Ellie Studd, author and cheese expert.
Ellie Studd, author and cheese expert.

I know I am not alone in my adoration for cheese toasties. It seems like everyone has their own tricks, hacks and holy grail methods to get the perfect ooze and sizzle.

My philosophy is that cheese toasties are not about being overly fancy nor are they about holding back (slather that butter on!). They’re about understanding your chosen cheese’s behaviour and personality to avoid disappointment and reach melted happiness.

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Essentially, various cheeses behave differently when they melt. Some ooze, some crisp up, some become stringy, while others turn silky or split only to leave a disappointing pile of oil. Ergo, the type of melt profoundly impacts your toastie experience.

Cheeses also have their own individual personality and flavour, so my number one tip for toastie perfection is to mix-and-match two or more cheeses for the best behaved, most delicious creation. Here are my top 10, with the meltiest first.

Ellie Studd holding a cheese toastie.
Ellie Studd holding a cheese toastie.Lauren Bamford
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Top 10 cheese styles for toasties

1. Low-moisture mozzarella/smoked scamorza

  • Cheese pull: +++++
  • Melt style: stretchy, stringy, oozy
  • Flavour: mild to bland; scamorza will have a mild smoky flavour

Add these cheeses if you want the guaranteed cheese pull that is both ’gram-worthy and satisfying in the length of the stretch. The downside is that they have a relatively bland taste. To counter this, I strongly encourage adding another variety of cheese for some flavour complexity.

2. Emmental

  • Cheese pull: ++++
  • Melt style: stringy and stretchy
  • Flavour: fruity, sweet, slightly tangy, mild

I won’t mention pH levels, but emmental is another sure-fire cheese pull from France and Switzerland. Its flavour is an acquired taste, so use it as a base to mix with other cheeses.

3. Gruyere/Heidi gruyere (Australian)

  • Cheese pull: +++
  • Melt style: a smooth, rich and fatty melt. Gruyère will brown and bubble under a grill.
  • Flavour: toasty, nutty, complex, fruity

Swiss le gruyere promises the most premium flavour and consistency, but any gruyere or alpine-style cheese will do the trick.

Comte cheese.
Comte cheese.iStock
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4. Comte and other alpine-style cheeses

  • Cheese pull: +++
  • Melt style: smooth, rich and fatty. Comte will brown and bubble under a grill.
  • Taste: toasty, fruity, nutty

Comte is a French version of gruyere created on a smaller production scale. Both gruyere and comte belong to the alpine cheese family and are my go-to cheese toastie choices for complexity in taste and consistent texture when melted. My favourite comte has been aged in Marcel Petite’s Fort.

5. Fontina

  • Cheese pull: +++
  • Melt style: a softer, buttery, silky melt with some pull
  • Flavour: buttery, creamy, a little fruity

Fontina often flies under the radar for a toastie, but to me, it’s a guaranteed pleaser. The mild flavour does lend itself to pairing with a strong/bold filler.

Tip: don’t cut the slices of fresh mozzarella too thick.
Tip: don’t cut the slices of fresh mozzarella too thick.iStock

6. Fresh mozzarella/fior di latte/burrata

  • Cheese pull: ++
  • Melt style: in a toastie, these cheeses become chewy rather than fully melty, depending on the thickness of cut
  • Flavour: fresh, tangy, sweet, creamy

Fresh mozzarella and burrata can be fabulous in a toastie, but they also run the risk of making the bread soggy. To avoid this, make sure you heavily pat down any excess brine before adding to the bread. Don’t cut the slices too thick, that way it will melt rather than become chewy.

Taleggio is a washed-rind cheese.
Taleggio is a washed-rind cheese.iStock
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7. Taleggio (Italy), raclette or Section 28 Monte Rosso (Australia)

  • Cheese pull: +
  • Melt style: oozy and silky
  • Flavour: funky, meaty

Expect these cheeses to be a little smelly due to their washed rinds, but they will not disappoint. A little goes a long way in terms of taste. These stinkers go beautifully with chutney and potato, cured meats and cornichons (see suggestions below). Remember to remove the rind.

Camembert cheese.
Camembert cheese.iStock

8. Camembert

  • Cheese pull: +
  • Melt style: oozy and gooey. Some oil pooling/separation when heated
  • Flavour: mushrooms, white truffles, barnyard funk

Buy camembert if you can from Normandy in a traditional wooden box for bolder flavour and better meltability. Goes well with smoked tomato chutney or fig jam.

Cheddar cheese.
Cheddar cheese.iStock

9. Cheddar

  • Cheese pull: none
  • Melt style: melts with no cheese pull; expect some oil pooling
  • Flavour: depends on quality; variable from buttery to acidic and grassy

Cheddar can add a lovely bite to your toastie, but due to its acidity, it will release some oil. Cheddar shines better when it’s mixed with other cheeses. Young cheddar usually melts better than older cheddar, due to a higher moisture. Our favourites are English clothbound cheddars for their brothy and bold flavours.

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10. Parmigiano reggiano/manchego/pecorino romano

  • Cheese pull: none
  • Melt style: crisp, but expect some oil pooling and splitting
  • Flavour: when heated these cheeses become toasty, nutty and full of umami

Although these cheeses are technically non-melters, I encourage you to consider adding them for salty flavour bombs, or sprinkle the crust with thinly grated cheese for a nice crispy crunch.

The golden rules (pun intended)

BREAD

For a sandwich press toastie, I love a dense sourdough. And here is a true toastie secret – always use day-old bread for extra crunch.

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There is a time and place for white bread and, in my book, a cheese toastie is just such an occasion, because it provides a nice, neutral base to build from. Occasionally, I use Japanese milk bread with pleasing results. Just make sure your slices are not too thin or they won’t be able to handle the fillings.

PREPARATION

  • Grate your cheese to ensure more even and quicker melting. Grating from a block will always taste better than pre-shredded cheese, which often has additives.
  • If you’re using more than one cheese, mix them together in a bowl before building your toastie.
  • Add more cheese than you think you need. A thick layer cheese to both sides of the bread ensures cheesy goodness in every bite. We’re talking around 60g per toastie.
  • Room temperature cheese is ideal.
Studd recommends day-old sourdough for toasties, and white bread for jaffles. Caramelised leeks (right) are one of her favourite additions.
Studd recommends day-old sourdough for toasties, and white bread for jaffles. Caramelised leeks (right) are one of her favourite additions.Lauren Bamford

TIPS FOR SUPPORTING A CRUNCHY EXTERIOR CRUST

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(because this is an essential part of toastie anatomy)

  • Make sure your butter is soft and at room temperature so it can spread easily on the bread. Slather it from edge-to-edge – no scrimping. I am a mad fan of buttering both the inside and outside of the bread and I don’t think its overly indulgent.
  • Do not be shy about the amount of butter you use. Obviously, I am biased in thinking that quality butter tastes better (we use French cultured butter as it has a higher melting point and is delicious).
  • As a butter alternative, grapeseed oil yields pleasingly crispy results.

Side note: A polarising replacement for butter, shared by a moderate proportion of cheese toastie lovers, is mayonnaise. This small but vocal faction claim it doesn’t burn as quickly as butter and is richer in taste. I feel it’s only fair to mention this, but it’s not my personal preference, as I don’t like the aftertaste.

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COOKING APPARATUS TIPS

Sandwich press: My hottest tip is to flip your toastie over halfway through the cooking process if using a press. And, if you want to take things further, rotate it 180 degrees. This ensures even meltability. Cooking time is usually around 3–4 minutes each side.

Jaffle: Avoid overstuffing with fillings to prevent spilling carnage, and frustrating cleaning situations.

Stovetop and frypan: I’m a fan of the open sandwich approach: two slices of buttered bread, cheese on each slice, placed simultaneously (cheese side up) in the heated frypan. Cover with a lid for a few minutes to encourage melting. Once the cheese is mostly melted, remove the lid, add the fillings, sandwich together and press down with a weight (ie. can) for the final minutes of cooking.

Remember for all methods the motto is low and slow.

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FINAL EMBELLISHMENTS

  • Don’t be weird and cut straight down the middle. Cutting on the diagonal is the only way to sever your toastie.
  • Finish your creation with a sprinkling of some flaky, flaky sea salt just before serving for that extra crunch factor.

PIMPING UP POSSIBILITIES

  • Give your sourdough a garlicky hit by rubbing with a raw clove before applying the butter, or opt for a compound herb, garlic or anchovy butter.
  • Spice things up by adding chopped jalapeños.
  • On a cold day, dip your toastie in a hot bowl of tomato soup.
  • Finely chopped leeks go well with cheddar and Alpine cheeses adding a lovely, sweet onion flavour.

15 filling combinations to make your heart melt

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  • Cheddar, comte/gruyere, leeks; for the leeks you can saute a big batch, or just finely chop raw leeks, as they also do the trick. Spring onions are an optional addition.
  • Mozzarella, gruyere and kimchi, with side of kimchi juice or hot sauce for dipping
  • Left over roast chicken, pickled chilli, cheddar, alpine cheese
  • Comte, manchego, fresh mozzarella, pickled white onion, garlic
  • Comte, emmental, bechamel sauce, ham
  • Ham off the bone, alpine cheese, Dijon mustard (classic combo) with a side of cornichons
  • Taleggio, sauteed mushrooms with eschalot (French shallot) and thyme, plus truffle oil to finish
  • Asiago, roasted red peppers, olive tapenade, finished with fresh rocket on top once toasted
  • Raclette, prosciutto, sage
  • Camembert with fig jam
  • Camembert with kimchi
  • Gruyere/comte, caramelised onion jam, provolone
  • Cheddar, mozzarella, ’nduja, with fresh rocket for serving
  • Mozzarella and comte jaffle, with a side of tomato soup for dipping
  • Emmental, pulled pork, pickles

Curd nerd trivia: what makes a cheese melt?

When cheese melts, it means the protein matrix (protein, water and fat) is stretching with the heat. The strength of the matrix determines the meltability and how gooey the cheese becomes. There is a sweet spot for it being resilient enough to stay together but also having enough give, so it can flow. A cheese’s acidity, moisture and age all impact this matrix stretch.

In general, cheeses that are higher in fat, higher in moisture and younger will be better melters. Aged cheeses, such as parmigiano reggiano, are usually lower in moisture, leading to matrix breakage. Low-fat and fat-free cheeses as well as acid-set cheeses will not melt.

Ellie Studd is the co-author of The Best Things in Life are Cheese, published by Plum, RRP $44.99. Photography by Lauren Bamford. Buy now

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Original URL: https://www.watoday.com.au/goodfood/tips-and-advice/oozy-does-it-10-of-the-best-and-meltiest-cheeses-as-ranked-by-a-pro-20240411-p5fj3s.html