Retailers often use ratings that appear to be awarded by their own staff. Should I take any notice of them?

R.A., BALGOWLAH, NSW

As one who’s involved in the business of tasting, critiquing and scoring wine, I’m used to seeing my reviews appear in the advertisements, brochures and emails of retailers. These retailers also use reviews written by people I’ve never heard of. Who are they? God only knows. It doesn’t seem to matter to the retailer that the reviewer they quote may be unknown to 99 per cent of readers. Reputation doesn’t seem to matter much any more. It appears to have gone out the back door, along with truth. Remember that?

Do some retail-staff tasters have opinions worth taking note of? No doubt some do. But the question is, which ones? Having a retailer critique the wines they sell is a bit like putting Dracula in charge of the blood bank. Another problem is that the person being quoted changes so often it can be difficult to build a writer-reader relationship.

I follow film, theatre, music and restaurant critics whom I’ve known (usually by name only) for years. I’ve been reading them and comparing my impressions with theirs for a long time, so I have a fair idea of their tastes and whether they align with mine. This isn’t possible with a reviewer whose name appears only once or twice.

I’ve no problem with liquor retailers critiquing wines or beers or spirits, but it should be seen as a form of advertising. Hardly impartial. That said, some boutique wine shops do publish reviews by their proprietors: invariably, they’re people with a profile in the industry, people with experience and good taste and of honest character. That’s the sort of retailer you want to follow.

Unfortunately, it does seem as if scores out of 100 penned by unknown tasters – enshrined in colourful badges featuring large, bold typefaces – are accorded some importance by a credulous public. Otherwise retailers wouldn’t use them, would they? It’s not surprising that younger customers tend to place their trust in social media when deciding what to buy. Caveat emptor.