Tasmania’s most influential chefs: 24-19
THEY are Tasmania’s top culinary creatives making their mark across the state. We continue our count down of Tassie’s top chefs.
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IT seems that all eyes have turned to Tassie when it comes to plating up locally produced and seasonally informed dishes.
There’s something about our clean air that makes food taste better, while our garden fork to table fork simplicity is turning heads both at home and across the Bass Strait.
But some are doing it better than others, and this Mercury list will give you the names that should be on your culinary radar.
Over the next four days, we count down the top influencers in our state’s food scene, those who live and breathe brand Tasmania — often without even realising it.
24 STEPHEN HICKMAN
Driftwood, Lauderdale
A bit of time spent in the kitchens of the Royal Hobart Hospital gave Hickman the insight into what not to make, and that invaluable muscle memory has kept him in good stead through his cheffing life. Recently, the restaurant he owns with wife and business partner, Ruth, picked up an award for Best Regional Restaurant of the Year at the Tasmanian Hospitality Association. It was some nod to the young company, which is a few months shy of hitting the two-year mark with Driftwood. Hickman’s pedigree also ticks boxes, with a stint as head chef at the New Sydney, a stint actually in Sydney at Cafe Sydney, and heading up the Kirribilli site under the garfish banner.
23 SAM ADAMSON
Iron Pot Bay Vineyard, Rowella
There’s something unusual about the table setting at this vineyard restaurant in the Tamar Valley: the absence of salt and pepper shakers. But, according to Adamson, no-one ever asks for them. That in itself is testament to the full-bodied flavours being regularly dished out by this solo chef who heads up the kitchen in a team of one. Cooking on her own has meant the 38-seat restaurant has a simple menu with generous helpings. Adamson says her “inner control freak” means she makes most of the eatery’s pickles, chutneys and preserves herself, along with the pastries and towering cakes. Her ploughman’s pork pie is sloshed with an Iron Pot pinot meunier jelly — again, made by Adamson. Wine makes a leading appearance in her culinary creations with poached pears in pinot noir a crowd favourite. “It’s nothing ultra-modern. For me, it’s about the flavour and I’m a feeder, so people tend to leave here happy,” she says.
22 MATT ADAMS
Timbre, Legana
Adams is living and breathing the dream. When he’s not beside the hotplates of Timbre kitchen, which is set among the vines of Velo Vineyard in the Tamar Valley, he’s out herding his 40 milking goats commercially for Westhaven Dairy. Adams’ uncomplicated lifestyle plays out on his natural, unfussy menus featuring locally sourced produce. The draw that vineyard restaurants have in Tassie is indisputable, with seasoned hand like Adams leading to form. It would be a mistake to pass up on Timbre’s Miso semifreddo.
21 JAY PATEY
Pigeon Whole Bakers, Hobart
Hobart City Council should be petitioned for allocating only one 5-minute parking spot outside of this fine patisserie. It’s clearly an oversight by city aldermen on the volume of leavened-dough loving Hobartians pouring through this bakery’s door. Sourdough, sprouted wholemeal, ficelles, flaky croissants and galettes: is there nothing this man can’t bake? Patey’s loaves are a staple on plenty of cafe menus across town and he has a near-cult following of food tourists who cross the Strait to sample his sourdough donuts.
20 ALI CURREY-VOUMARD
Agrarian Kitchen, New Norfolk
If this were a list of hot new talent Currey-Voumard would be sitting pretty in the top spot. She’s had a slew of recent awards to add to her quiver, including Gourmet Traveller’s 2019 best new talent gong in August. Under her watch, Agrarian has picked up the 2018 Santa Vittoria best regional restaurant of the year, plus two chefs hats from the Good Food Guide.
She’s a rising star in the Hobart hospitality scene and her fresh, seasonal and innovative take on what she’s plating up is keeping her firmly in the sights of those food tragics among us.
19 MASAAKI KOYAMA
Masaaki’s Sushi, Geeveston
A nibble on a nigiri by sushi chef Masaaki could set you back a two-hour wait or more, and that’s after you’ve committed to the hour-long trek out to Geeveston. But, Masaaki’s hand-rolled maki, temaki and on-the-boil miso soup is well worth joining the back of the queue for; just ask Iron Chef Hiroyuki Sakai, who piled praise on the Japanese-born Tasmanian on his last trip to our humble state.
Or if that’s not high enough kudos, there’s always Tetsuya of the eponymous Sydney eatery, Kylie Kwong and even Rick Stein, who all vouch for Masaaki’s mastery with a makisu mat.
Masaaki’s secret: “I think that sushi freshly made with freshly cooked rice and really well-combined ingredients is the only way to make it. When you eat really good food you can tell,” he said.
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