TasWeekend: Drift into the delight

REVIEW: Keeping it simple is the ethos at Lauderdale’s newest eatery. And it is, quite simply, very good.

The chargrilled pork cutlet, braised red cabbage, apple puree and jus at Driftwood in Lauderdale. Picture: LUKE BOWDEN

FOR many years, Eating on the Edge was a popular spot to dine at Lauderdale, on Hobart’s Eastern Shore. But, like many eateries, it eventually reached its use-by date, shutting up shop almost two years ago.

After a substantial spruce-up, the canal-side restaurant reopened with new owners just before Christmas. Aptly named Driftwood, given its proximity to Roches Beach, it is a bright and open space with polished timber floors, floor-to-ceiling glass, and slat timber-topped tables adorned with potted succulents. A deck has been added for alfresco appeal.

Driftwood offers indoor and outdoor dining.

We visit on a quiet Friday night, eschewing our usual dinner-in-the-city date for something a little different. Warmly welcomed at the door, we take a seat by the window. I can’t help but wish it was still daylight saving, so we could gaze out onto the canal or even sit on the deck.

The menu arrives, listing eight entrees, six mains and an equal amount of sides. The wine list is also an easy read — unlike some, which require a sommelier to translate — and boasts a good selection of Tasmanian drops.

It’s all part of the new owners’ ethos of keeping it simple. Ruth Ghys-Hickman runs front of house, while other half Stephen Hickman is head chef in the gleaming new kitchen. “At Driftwood, we like to keep things as simple as possible, that’s why our menu is short, uncomplicated and changes regularly — almost as often as the weather,” reads its preface.

The chargrilled 300g porterhouse steak, fondant potato and gorgonzola butter.

The cheese plate with Coal River Farm triple cream brie and Mr Bennett’s Ashgrove blue. Pictures: LUKE BOWDEN

The waitress runs through a few specials, including oysters and a salmon pate. The fish of the day is striped trumpeter. To start, we share the pate and a bottle of Bream Creek pinot grigio. Served in a generous quenelle, the rustic pate is flavoured with dill and served with a wedge of lemon. It’s easily enough for two. We have to ask for more delicate triangles of wholemeal toast to conquer the dish.

After an appropriate pause, we move on to the main. My dining companion has ordered the 300g chargrilled porterhouse, which I wonder if he will be able to defeat alone given his notoriously light appetite. Family and friends often joke he eats like a little bird – not quite a fairy tern but perhaps a pied oyster catcher. I have been known to valiantly render assistance when required.

ON THE MENU Entrees: $9 for chicken wings to $20 for oysters. Mains: $22 for beetroot risotto to $38 for steak. Sides: $8. Desserts: $14. Cheese: $12 each.

He surprises me by devouring his steak, served medium rare with a glossy knob of gorgonzola butter and fondant potato. The steak knife is somewhat superfluous given the tenderness of the cut.

My pork cutlet, with braised red cabbage and apple puree, is of a similar proportion. It bears pleasing char marks and smokiness from the grill. Despite the waitress’s urging, I resist gnawing on the bone.

We also share a side of sumac-roasted cauliflower, a Middle Eastern-inspired dish with apricot, currants, pine nuts and tahini dressing. It’s so enjoyable I roast cauliflower at home a few nights later for a family dinner.

A Coal River Farm triple cream brie and an Ashgrove Mr Bennett’s blue round out a very pleasant evening.

While it’s way too dark and a bit chilly for a stroll on the beach, I make a mental note to return during daylight hours to take full advantage of the setting — and to try at least one of the desserts.

DRIFTWOOD RESTAURANT

13 North Terrace, Lauderdale

Wednesday 5-9pm; Thursday-Friday 11am-9pm; Saturday 8am-9pm; and Sunday 8am-3pm. Mother’s Day 8am– 9pm. Closed Monday-Tuesday.

6248 1162

The bright and open interior at Driftwood.