TasWeekend: Raising the dining bar in swish new Hobart Icon complex

Life has slowly returned to the Myer retail site, with one of the latest additions a “concept store” that blends bottleshop, wine bar, cafe and provedore.

Johnston & Miller’s bottleshop and provedore section is well stocked with local wines and produce. Picture: NIKKI DAVIS-JONES

PRECIOUS little remains of the old Myer building after fire ripped through on a quiet Saturday in September 2007 – a blaze so fierce it could be seen suburbs away. It was an event that stopped Hobart in its tracks, leaving a gaping black hole that took years to fill.

“It’s the biggest challenge the Hobart Central Business District has ever faced, probably,” Premier Paul Lennon said at the time.

ON THE MENU Beef, pork and fennel meatballs, $19.50; moussaka, $18.50; buttermilk-poached chicken salad, $19,50; duck liver parfait, $16; marinated Kalamata and spicy Sicilian olives, $6; Derwent Estate pinot gris, $13 by the glass; Bangor Captain Spotswood pinot noir, $12.

Life has slowly returned to the retail site, delayed somewhat by a devastating flood in 2016. Included in stage two of the rather swish new Icon Complex, which opened almost a year ago, is a bar and eatery that boasts the last remaining facade of the original building. It is this beautiful 19th century brick wall, lined with lofty sash windows, that draws you in to Johnston & Miller, a “concept store” that blends bottleshop, wine bar, cafe and provedore on the first floor.

Having visited once before for a Friday night nibble on a moreish duck liver parfait with cornichons and fig relish and a plate of warm olives, I decide to break away from my usual stomping ground of Salamanca to try it out for lunch. We three arrive just before 1pm on a Wednesday.

Interior view of new concept bar and eatery, Johnston & Miller at the Icon, complete with the original bricks from the facade of the old Myer store, visible on the far left. Picture: NIKKI DAVIS-JONES

At first, all the smaller tables are occupied but after a short wait one becomes available right next to the window.

A glass of Derwent Estate pinot gris is one of many Tasmanian tipples available. Picture: NIKKI DAVIS-JONES

We can gaze out to Murray St below and across to one of the ugliest buildings in Hobart — the old Tasmania Bank building that now houses Routleys.

We also have a bird’s eye view of a double-decker bus of cruise ship passengers travelling past. An autumn rain squall has forced those on the top deck to don see-through plastic ponchos, which look disturbingly like full-body condoms. It’s hard to believe that just a few days earlier I spent the entire day at the beach as the temperature soared just beyond 39C. Today it’s not even half that, with two boat loads of visitors in port no doubt left thinking that Hobart is a rather dismal place to dock.

My significant other decides the cold snap calls for comfort food, so he opts for the beef, pork and fennel meatballs, while mum orders the moussaka from the compact menu. I go for the lighter option of a chicken salad.

The moussaka, baked layers of mince, potato and eggplant topped with bechamel sauce and served with Greek salad. Picture: NIKKI DAVIS-JONES

As we are surrounded by wine, it would seem wrong not to have a glass. Showcasing Tasmanian tipples, the drinks menu runs to nine pages. We select a blushingly pink Derwent Estate pinot gris and a Bangor Captain Spotswood pinot noir.

The food arrives pretty swiftly. The piping hot meatballs topped with shaved Manchego cheese come with a side of crunchy bread for dipping into the tomato sauce. The only complaint is the high sided bowl makes them a little difficult to tackle with a knife and fork.

Buttermilk poached chicken salad with roast tomato, Spanish onion, feta, jamon serrano, pinot treacle and white truffle oil. Picture: NIKKI DAVIS-JONES

My salad is light but filling, featuring tender poached chicken, baby spinach, sweet roasted cherry tomatoes, crumbled feta and slivers of jamon serrano. Mum looks pretty pleased with herself as she demolishes her moussaka and accompanying Green salad with spinach, feta, red onion, tomato and olives. “The proof’s in the pudding,” she says as she rests her knife and fork upon an empty plate.

JOHNSTON & MILLER Shop 15, First floor Icon Complex, 55-59 Murray St, Hobart 6231 1621

Before heading back to work, I wander around the well-stocked shelves. The wines are organised in styles including “textured and luscious”, “warm and fuzzy”, “light and approachable”. There are “booze buddies” — light snacks to takeaway — and a cheese and charcuterie cabinet.

The venue also hosts regular show-and-tell nights for local producers, with past guests including Willie Smiths, the Bruny Island Beer Co, and Stefano Lubiana Wines.

One imagines they will do a fairly busy trade when the third and final stage of the Icon Complex — Hobart’s first Crowne Plaza hotel — finally opens around this time next year.

Through fire and flood, Hobart’s CBD is certainly growing up fast.