Classic Hobart pub that offers elevated eats with zero pretence
From perfectly cooked steaks to show-stealing vegetable sides, this unassuming North Hobart establishment is redefining expectations of traditional pub fare, writes Alix Davis
After a tough day on the golf course (hey, that handicap isn’t going to get any lower by itself!), there’s nothing my husband likes more than a steak. So it was with great delight that he leapt at my suggestion of dinner at the Tasmanian Inn on a recent Saturday night. Though it’s located on the auto alley that is North Hobart’s Campbell St, this low-key pub feels warm and welcoming from the moment you step through the front door.
I duck through the bar – though you can eat there as well – and head for the restaurant, which is already buzzing with family groups celebrating a birthday, tables of friends and a few couples. The dining room is understated but a quick glance at the menu tempts my appetite. If you’re looking for a tasty snack to pair with a schooner or two, there’s plenty to choose from.
Tonight, I’m limiting myself to the falafel with zhoug ($14 for four), but if we weren’t having dinner I’d be adding the scotch egg ($16) and the buttermilk fried chicken with ranch dressing and hot honey ($16). The falafel are crispy and golden and break open to reveal a vibrant green interior. Some falafel can be like eating a puck of sawdust, but these are moist and full of flavour – especially when paired with tahini and zhoug (a spicy herb hot sauce from Yemen). The brightly coloured pickles also pack a mouth-watering crunch.
There are plenty of options for non-meat eaters here, but we’re going carnivorous tonight. A beef and Guinness pie ($31) is a generously sized serving of golden pastry stuffed with slow-braised beef that’s fork tender. The gravy is thick and rich, while the bright mushy peas make it practically a health food. On arrival, our friend reckons he won’t get through it, but 20 minutes later his plate is clean and he’s stealing hot chips to swipe up any errant gravy.
My husband’s steak – a tender 250g Cape Grim porterhouse ($41) comes cooked to order with a generous side of excellent chips and a fresh cabbage slaw. There’s a choice of sauces and mustard is happily provided on request.
The Thai red curry with chicken ($28 with option of market fish or tofu) is on the spicy side, which I love, and it features grilled pieces of chicken placed around a mound of rice, with plenty of sauce.
The real stars here are the sides and I highly recommend ordering all of them. Roast potatoes with garlic butter ($14) need no further explanation and these bite-size morsels of carby goodness are quickly devoured. A dish of darkly caramelised, roasted carrots ($16) are served on a bed of labneh, drizzled with tangy-sweet pomegranate molasses and topped with plenty of roasted hazelnuts. Each mouthful is a delight and I’d be happy with this as a main course. Our final side is roasted delicata squash ($16) that comes with cumin-scented white beans, fried shallots and a hit of not-too-spicy harissa. It’s substantial and the flavours are outstanding – another dish I’d be happy to eat as a main course.
Other plant-forward mains include an eggplant parmigiana ($26) and a curried potato and winter greens pie ($26).
The focus on vegetables comes from chef Tod La Marr’s work with the team at Felds Farm and his background at the much-missed Tom McHugo’s and much-loved Sunbear. He works with head chef Tyson Webb and together they have created a menu that’s “vibrant, colourful and fresh, with a focus on Tasmanian produce and beverages. We have access to so much great stuff that it makes sense to showcase it,” says La Marr, a co-owner with Warrick Deveson and Dave McGill (who both also co-own Deep South Brewing Co.)
We’re not leaving without dessert and, though it takes a little time due to a forgotten order that’s well smoothed over with a round of complimentary drinks, it’s worth waiting for. An apple and rhubarb crumble ($13, gluten free and vegan) is just sweet enough while the bread and butter pudding ($13) is cooked to order and quickly declared my husband’s favourite dessert of the year. It’s cinnamon-scented with plenty of rich custard that sets as we’re eating it and shows how a B&B pudding should be done.
Don’t come to the Tasmanian Inn for a flashy fit-out and snooty service – do come for excellent, elevated pub food and service with a smile. We’ll be back soon, no pre-dinner golf game required.
TASMANIAN INN
172 Campbell St, Hobart
Opening hours: Tues – Sat from 4pm (kitchen opens at 5pm)
On the menu:
Chickpea falafel, $14; beef & Guinness pie, $31; 250g Cape Grim porterhouse, $41; delicata squash with white beans, $16; bread and butter pudding, $13.
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