Publican Will Cordwell closes the doors of Ascot Hotel and Stonegrill Restaurant
A popular Aussie pub home to an internationally-renowned stone grill restaurant will this week close, but no moss will gather on the owner of 37 years.
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It is the end of an era for Rockhampton, as well-known publican Will Cordwell sets to close the doors on his beloved Ascot Hotel and the Stonegrill Restaurant inside.
Mr Cordwell has owned the Ascot Hotel, which was first opened in 1883 and known as Forresters Arms Hotel, for the past 37 years.
Now, more than three decades on, last drinks and steaks will be called on March 31.
Since becoming owner, Mr Cordwell has served countless stone grilled meals to thousands of eager patrons.
Harcourts Low and Co principal Grace Low sold the Ascot Hotel and has also been a regular patron and stone grill enthusiast.
She said Mr Cordwell is a man who has led his business with passion.
“He was so passionate about the food he could offer here that he actually got approached to fast track his way through his chef’s apprenticeship,” she said.
“So as a mature age… he did it in under 12 months, he got signed off as a chef with no actual credentials, just based off his own life experience.”
Ms Low said the Ascot Hotel owner had always had a love for food and that reflected in how he served his guests.
“He was really passionate about making sure we had that paddock to plate,” she said.
“He talked about the different cut of the beast with every customer that comes here. He explains the turning muscles of the beast, the different flavours of the product and he offers it to you… in its raw form and then you have to cook it and experience it as it progresses on the stone.”
Mr Cordwell said conversing with customers was essential.
“Chefs don’t get out to talk to the customers,” he said.
“They need to explain to the customers the different cut of meats and why they have different flavours.”
The Ascot Hotel serves various cuts of meat including some less common meats in the form of kangaroo and crocodile as well as seafood options.
For Mr Cordwell fresh is best and he believes that is one of the reasons why the stone grill has been so popular.
“Part of it is people see how fresh the steaks are before it’s cooked,” he said.
“All our vegetables are as fresh as possible.
“I haven’t sold frozen chips in 30 years, I cut them when people order them.”
As for his favourite cut of meat, Mr Cordwell said it was the cube roll, a part of the cow where one gets the rib eye and scotch fillet.
Asked why she thinks Mr Cordwell is such a successful publican, Ms Low said it was due to the immersion he gave the guests.
“I guess the reason he’s done so well is because he’s selling an entire experience rather than just any other business model for a pub,” she said.
That success has not been confined to just Rockhampton, with Mr Cordwell and his Stonegrill Restaurant known in places as far away as China, Singapore and Europe.
The Ascot Hotel consistently ranks number one on Google and Tripadvisor.
“He has a lot of people all around the world who come here,” Ms Low said.
“I know he houses the Singapore Army here… he’s on the Chinese (version of) Pinterest, so everyone from China thinks he is famous.”
One look at the guest book can confirm this, with comments of appreciation in various languages going back throughout the years.
According to Ms Low, Mr Cordwell is somewhat of a life transformer with some of the most unlikely of patrons.
“He’s had a lot of vegetarians… trying steak when they’re vegetarian and saying how good it is,” she said.
“I think that makes him really proud.”
As for a final comment about Mr Cordwell, Ms Low said she was excited to see what the future holds for him.
“I don’t think he knows what the word retirement means,” she said.
“Somebody with that much personality and that much drive - it’s only a matter of time before we’re seeing something else in the works.
“He’s the most creative and ambitious person that I’ve come across.”
Though it may be the end of the Ascot Hotel, there is hope that the stone grilling experience carries on.
“There is an opportunity there for someone else to come in and take his model with the stone grill and to take on the actual equipment and the licence and do that somewhere else in Rockhampton,” Ms Low said.
For anyone who hasn’t ever experienced the Ascot Hotel and stone grill experience Ms Low said they shouldn’t hesitate.
“If you have not experienced a steak here, it is literally a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity,” she said.
Asked what he would miss about running the Ascot Hotel, the soon to be former owner said it was the clientele, especially the overseas tourists.
“It’s always interesting with so many nationalities,” Mr Cordwell said.
As for what the next chapter of his life will entail, Mr Cordwell answer was simple.
“I look forward to spending more time with my wife,” he said.
Originally published as Publican Will Cordwell closes the doors of Ascot Hotel and Stonegrill Restaurant