How to spend a day on Agincourt Reef, Great Barrier Reef off Port Douglas

Nestled on the edge of the Great Barrier Reef and teeming with colourful marine life sits Agincourt Reef – a tranquil gem located on the Port Douglas coast.

Marine biologists collate coral samples to help regenerate coral colonies on Agincourt Reef. Photo: Catherine Duffy.

It starts with an early knock off on Wednesday afternoon, taking the scenic route from the heart of Cairns to the coastal paradise of Port Douglas.

The sun paints the sky in pink and orange, while ocean waves kiss the golden sands below as I meander along the highway, past Palm Cove.

A tangle of green branches, vines and roots flanks me on the other side, providing shadowed relief from the sun’s afternoon glare.

It is never cool enough in the tropics, so I pump up the aircon, roll up the window and the sound of the ocean is soon replaced by the upbeat tempo of my Spotify playlist.

Hilary Duff sings about what dreams are made of and I can’t help but smile as I drive along, resisting the urge to stop at every rest stop and soak in the views.

I arrive at the Sheraton Grand Mirage Resort as a purple evening haze begins to set in.

I’ve visited the Sheraton once before for work, but I am still pleansantly surprised by the luxurious surroundings.

Sheraton Grand Mirage Port Douglas Photo supplied ESCAPE 15 May 2022 Destination Port Douglas

Draped in tropical foliage, the large white building spreads out towards Four Mile beach.

While waiting to be checked in, I look around the sprawling foyer, which includes a coffee bar and is at least as big as my house.

There’s even a baby grand piano ‘floating’ on an island by the stairs, on the way to the dining hall and restaurants.

I peruse the eclectic art collection, by the piano which upon further inspection sits on a platform surrounded by water, overlooking a restaurant and meandering outdoor pool visible through the floor-to-ceiling windows.

It’s an interesting art collection, I think, passing by a remixed Mona Lisa.

I can’t decide if I like it or not, but for some reason, she compels me.

Once checked in, I follow the map to my room, the receptionist’s instructions already fading from my mind.

Hopefully I’ll find my way.

'Floating' piano inside the foyer at Sheraton Grand Mirage Port Douglas. Photo: Catherine Duffy

After finding a carpark, I head up to the third and topmost level of the hotel.

My room overlooks a rolling green lawn, lined with tropical trees, and after admiring the view, I put my bags away before getting ready for dinner.

Following the stone footpath to the outdoor dining area, I meet with my travelling companions.

We sip on glasses of white wine in the outdoor seating area at The Lagoon House, the humidity lifting slightly as the evening wears on.

We are treated to a delicious smorgasbord including grilled prawns, Korean fried chicken, broccolini and hummus, and eggplant tempura.

Relaxing by the pool, the beach to my left, the excitement for tomorrow begins to kick in.

After a couple of hours of good food, wine and swapping travel stories, the five of us head back to our rooms.

The next morning, I peel myself out of bed at 5.30am for a 6am breakfast at the hotel restaurant and am greeted by a grey dawn and a sprinkle of rain.

Aside from a small shower on my way to breakfast and a brief but welcome respite from the humidity, the morning shapes up to be good for a day on the water.

After meeting my companions at the restaurant, we make our way to the buffet where we choose from an assortment of breakfast items - baked treats, fresh fruit platters, yoghurts and a juice bar among them.

I settle for some fresh fruit, crispy bacon and roasted potatoes.

Sailing out of the Port Douglas Marina. Photo: Catherine Duffy

After some light chatter about the day ahead and excitement to snorkel on the furthest point of the Great Barrier Reef, our group sets off to the Port Douglas Marina.

Despite the morning shower and fading cloud cover, the humidity presses down on us as we make our way to the marina to meet our crew.

We are met by the friendly crew of the M.H. Maven, on a small-yet-spacious charter boat which will soon take us out to Agincourt Reef.

Making ourselves comfortable, we spread out between the main cabin taking up spots at the cosy dining booth and lounge, and the rear deck.

A silver sun greets us as we board, peeking out from behind an abundance of grey clouds which eventually scatter to reveal bright blue skies.

Settling in the cabin, I watch from the window as the sea and sky blend together until its impossible to tell where one ends and the other begins.

A mountain ridge peaks beneath the clouds, small flashes of green-brown islands popping up in the near distance.

Sailing out of the Port Douglas Marina. Photo: Catherine Duffy

A handful of vessels pepper the sea around us, their bright white livery’s twinkling like diamonds on the horizon.

Closer to the action, the boat powers through the deep blue ocean, the choppy waves breaking on either side.

We are heading out for a day tour to the Great Barrier Reef to witness the pilot development of millions of coral babies born through the coral IVF technique onto the reefs.

While I have been to the reef before, my experience has been limited to day trips sailing out of Cairns on large ferries and 40 minute trips out to Green and Fitzroy Islands.

Unfortunately, just after the two hour mark of a three hour journey out, I succumbed to seasickness and spent the better part of the journey confined to the back lounge of the boat.

Finally, we stop at Agincourt Reef and the view is more than worth the effort.

The grey clouds have slipped out to the edge of the horizon to reveal a bright, friendly sun.

Faint white wave tips crash against the edge of the reef, revealing an even deeper blue.

We are joined by marine biologist Kevin Erikson from the Australian Institute of Marine Science who talks us through the coral IVF program which was implemented for the first time in Far North Queensland, earlier this year.

Marine biologists have been closely monitoring coral colonies at Agincourt Reef in efforts to protect and restore marine life in the Great Barrier Reef. Photo: Supplied.

“We’ve been deploying these pools, collecting coral spawn off this reef here on Agincourt, and harbouring that coral spawn,” he says.

“We have about 20 million coral spawn in total across our two locations and nine pools.”

“We put our coral seeding devices into these pools and then with the coral seeding devices, we can put them into areas that need coral restoration efforts done on.”

Kevin then invites us to feel the coral spawning devices which look like awkward, white spanners the heads of which are covered in what looks like mould, but is actually coral spawn.

The devices are then taken from nursery pools scattered closely around Agincourt reef, and when they’re ready, distributed to other parts of the Great Barrier Reef in need of regeneration.

“Despite the tough summer that the corals had here off the coast of cairns and Port Douglas, we saw an amazing span,” Kevin said.

“We were able to collect 20 million spawn that would’ve otherwise been lost to the sea, kind of allow those to develop and we can put those back to where they’re needed.”

A number of people from our party take the opportunity to snorkel on the reef and see first-hand how it is faring - they report observing plenty of coral and colourful fish - they are even lucky enough to spot a small reef shark.

Marine biologists have been closely monitoring coral colonies at Agincourt Reef in efforts to protect and restore marine life in the Great Barrier Reef. Photo: Supplied.

On the way back to the mainland, the crew treats us to a delicious lunch of Thai noodle salad, chicken kebabs, fresh prawns and finger foods, an assortment of breads and a platter of locally grown fresh fruit.

The trip back to Port Douglas feels shorter than the trip out and is considerably smoother.

I stay inside the cabin, but with the open doorway leading out to the deck, the refreshing ocean breeze washes over our sun-kissed skin as we sail back across the ocean, leaving the distant flashes of reefs behind.

Fruit platter on board the M.H. Maven on the way back to Port Douglas. Photo: Catherine Duffy

Back at the marina, we’re greeted by the usual heat and humidity once we disembark from the boat, nothing unusual for Far North Queensland.

We arrive in the late afternoon, so after bidding my companions farewell, I decide to take a stroll through the main street, stopping in at the Port Douglas Book Lounge, before heading home.

It’s a quiet drive back to Cairns, but looking out the window to witness a beautiful afternoon sun blazing brightly on the water, I can’t help but start planning my next trip to the reef.

Originally published as How to spend a day on Agincourt Reef, Great Barrier Reef off Port Douglas