Tulum restaurant chef’s risky kebab move pays off

A renowned Melbourne chef has revealed how a staple Turkish dish almost forced him out of business – and the moment that “changed it all”.

Is kebab the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Turkish food?

If so, this is largely the reason renowned chef Coskun Uysal has refused to sell the meat dish at his now one-hatted Tulum restaurant in Balaclava, Melbourne.

When he moved to Victoria from Istanbul five years ago, he promised himself he wasn’t going to offer a menu similar to other Turkish restaurants in the country.

He wanted to show Aussies his cultural cuisine extends far beyond a “meats section”, dips and bread and of course, the doner kebab.

“As a chef, I’ve always felt it’s my calling to showcase what Turkish food can be, beyond kebabs and dips. Although delicious, I reverted to traditional recipes like mum and grandma used to make and infused them with my own Tulum style,” Coskun told news.com.au.

However, not serving the usual suspects was a risk that almost cost him his entire business.

“The first three years I wanted to close my restaurant,” he said.

“When people heard a new Turkish restaurant had opened, they came in expecting live music with a belly dancer, carpet on the wall and a big menu with kebabs and dips.

“And when they realised it was totally opposite, they left unhappy.”

Coskun Uysal, owner of Tulum Restaurant in Melbourne, said not serving meat dishes (kebab) was a risk that almost cost him his business.

It wasn’t until Coskun appeared on MasterChef in 2018 and 2020 respectively as a guest chef serving some of his key menu items, that everything changed.

“MasterChef changed my life,” he said.

“People started to understand what I do at the restaurant – they know when they walk in, it’s about a menu born out of love for my mother’s cooking.

“The menu is infused with flavours and aromas, from couscous with roasted cauliflower to hazelnut and burnt butter, it’s a melange of tradition and innovation.”

Fast-forward to 2021, customers have become so enamoured with the chef’s take on Turkish food, it was voted number one in the TheFork’s Top 100 Restaurants in Australia for this year.

Coming in second on the restaurant booking platform’s list was Contact Bar & Kitchen, Woolloomooloo, Sydney, followed by Vizio Caffe e Cucina, also in Woolloomooloo.

Tulum restaurant has topped TheFork’s Top 100 Restaurants in Australia. Picture: Instagram

Coskun said that his innovative menu was born out of love for his mother’s cooking.

“The best award you can receive is one from the customer and I am just so proud and happy at how far we have come,” Coskun said.

“We’d like to thank our loyal diners for continuing to support us on our journey. We wouldn’t be here without them.”

He said the win is also a testament to the hard work of his team who continue to push the envelope and constantly evolve – even in turbulent times.

“Our innovation and ability to combine the traditional with the exciting, make us a standout in the world of Turkish restaurants, not just domestically but internationally, and we will keep pushing the envelope to highlight how exquisite the Turkish menu really is.”

During lockdown, which Coskun noted as tough period for all in hospitality, the restaurant served “Istanbul street food” – such as freshly made burek and simit, which they sold straight from a cart, just like back in Turkey.

“That saved my business [during lockdown] and my staff,” he said.

TheFork’s country manager Gary Burrows said the past year has undoubtedly been one of the most difficult times ever faced in the industry.

“So we are thrilled to be able to recognise the hard work and resilience of our restaurants and shine a spotlight on those truly special dining experiences through the Dished Up Top 100,” he told news.com.au.

“We are so excited to see people back out dining again and restaurants booking up. We encourage Aussies to continue supporting the industry and explore new venues. You just might discover your next favourite.”

TheFork’s Dished Up Top 100 showcases the top dining picks of thousands of Australian diners who have booked through platform this year, taking into account high booking numbers, diner ratings and positive user reviews.

Originally published as Tulum restaurant chef’s risky kebab move pays off