Rugby Union has undergone something of an identity crisis over the past decade. Some might even argue that it began two decades ago here in Australia. But a dip in form from Australia’s national team, that can now well and truly be dubbed a ‘slump’, combined with lacklustre performances from Australia’s clubs and a lack of grass roots interest, has seen not only the Wallabies plummet in popularity in Australia, but the sport of rugby union as a whole. But now, with master team re-builder Eddie Jones once again at the helm, Aussie rugby fans have reason to hope.

With the Rugby World Cup looming in France this September, there’s never been a better time for the much-maligned sport to experience a resurgence. And off the field, it looks like it’s already happening. Thanks to an unlikely combination of celebrity co-signs, runway appearances and collaborations, the sport is primed for a stylish comeback. Let us explain.

“Rugby” style—and really, prep at large—is a fine balancing act. Go too deep, and you come off resembling the snobbish double-barrelled surname patrons that have given the sport its reputation as “too elitist”. Not enough, and it's hard to differentiate the style from the myriad other trends and -cores that have proliferated their way into the stylescape.

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The first murmurings of rugby’s return to cool started at the June Fashion Weeks. At Pharrell’s debut Louis Vuitton show during Paris Fashion Week, the American multihyphenate creative stacked his front row with just about everyone. Beyoncé and Jay-Z (Hov even delivered a rare musical performance), Lebron James, Lewis Hamilton, stars from almost every corner of sport, and most notably, All Blacks legend Dan Carter.

Smiling front row was the highest point scorer in test match rugby, the same fly-half that had kicked his way into the hearts of New Zealand, and destroyed the hopes of all Wallabies fans for years. How on earth had he made the cut?

Image credit: GoRunway.com

The French luxury maison has held an interest in rugby since the World Cup in 2015, creating a commemorative rugby ball in the Eclipse leather and using ambassador Carter in promotion. But still, Carter wouldn’t be your expected attendee at a fashion show on the other side of the world compared to his fellow guests. Beyond Carter’s presence was Pharrell’s creative decision to include his take on the classic rugby polo in his debut collection. Some of the standout pieces in the collection, Pharrell brought his preppy cool to the French luxury house, reimagining the rugby polo in premium LV leather.

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Unexpected rugby appearances at Fashion Weeks were not limited to Paris. In Milan, Irish designer Jonathan Anderson took his final walk following his brand JW Anderson’s show in Ireland’s then-unreleased world cup rugby jersey worn simply over stonewashed jeans. On one hand, it stood in sharp contrast to the knitted creations and subversive silhouettes from the collection, but the sprinklings of classic sportswear that Anderson had also included had their roots firmly in prep reimagining.

Image credits: GoRunway.com

Anderson, whose father Willie Anderson played for Ireland, most notably captaining the side when the Irish team challenged the All Blacks’ haka, obviously has close ties to the Irish rugby team. And in the past, has included rugby graphics and illustrations on polo shirts in collaboration with artist Pol Anglada back in 2021. But this look, while surprising at first glance, makes sense when you compare it to more-popular ‘Blokecore’ and the appreciation of a good old fashioned jersey.

While typically it's a kaleidoscopic array of soccer jerseys being appropriated above baggy jeans and sneakers, it’s a jolt to see it instead with a rugby jersey, given the Blokecore’s associated with working class attire, and the upper-class following of rugby.

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Another unassuming celebrant of the sport was, now wait for it, Ben Affleck. Who was seen before boarding a flight in the traditional garb of a travelling celebrity—choosing to (try) and keep his low profile with a cap and sunglasses. Miraculously, Affleck reached for a cap from the Irish Rugby team. Growing up in Boston, Affleck’s Irish connection is understandable, but the rugby connection? Who would have guessed. It’s yet another example of rugby finding its way to the right places, at the right times.

Daniel W. Fletcher (L) and Wales Bonner (R). Image credits: GoRunway.com, Wales Bonner

Caps and jerseys aside, if any aspect of rugby was to become properly ‘cool’ again, it would be the rugby polo. Classic, undoubtedly preppy, and built to last, the rugby polo has been adopted by the style set for years. Constantly in the rotation of preppy stalwarts Ralph Lauren, Rowing Blazers, and locally Nautica, the collared polo is an unfussy, glamorous version of the humble sweatshirt. Which, historically, made it so popular with the rappers and Lo Lifes of the ’90s that made prep their own, remixing it in a new light. And while the style might have changed little, the offering has gone beyond what Ralph Lauren became closely associated with. Fashion loves borrowing from streetwear, so it’s no surprise we’re seeing it on the runway in these more elevated iterations.

This next resurgence, on one hand, lies in the ‘anti-fashion’-ness of it all. Rugby, not being the popular sport it is today as it once was, has a certain backwardness to it, making it ripe for the plucking from those who want to look a bit edgier via the use of irony. Rugby shirts also have a sense of authenticity to them, like a pair of blue jeans, or a button down shirt, the design of them hasn’t changed much since they were actually used on the rugby field.

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Australian prep culture is different to its American counterpart. In the States, rugby doesn’t quite have the popularity, and therefore connotations, it does here. Celebrities like Tyler, The Creator who have made the style their own, are able to more easily shake the “reputation” of rugby, and transform it into something different.

But here, rugby just needs representation in the right places. While the aforementioned Louis Vuitton show highlighted the versatility, and luxury potential of the rugby polo, the style has also been seen in the collections of GQ favourites like Bode, Wales Bonner, and Thom Browne, and its popularity overseas holds the association with private-school sport at an arm's length, instead being appreciated as the prep-staple it is.

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At home, rugby’s revival might come from instead leaning into its association with prep. The Wallabies recent collaboration with Australia’s iconic R. M. Williams is a sign this is already happening. Another local brand, Christian Kimber, has also made it's own luxe take on the polo. With rugby polos at the fore at home as well as abroad, these preppy, well-made styles with plenty of heritage, are a sign that rugby is going back to its conventional roots.

Will rugby become style’s next cue? Thanks to its sporting associations, it has the ruggedness and history to do so. Given the approaching World Cup, rugby is on track to make waves off the pitch once again. Subversiveness has helped define the spread of prep over decades, from the ’90s in Brooklyn, to its popularity on the back of streetwear labels like Noah and Aime Leon Doré more recently. In 2023, rugby has found its cool again.

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