From Valentino to Viktor & Rolf: Wild and wacky fashion rules the runways at Paris haute couture fashion week

From ‘everyday couture’ at Valentino to statement-making pieces at Viktor & Rolf and Florence Pugh flashing flesh in the front row – stars have turned heads in Paris.

A rose for your thoughts! Valentino’s show at Chateau de Chantilly in Paris. Picture: Getty Images

Big, bold fashion is in vogue. So is statement dressing and showing some flesh.

Paris haute couture week — set against a backdrop of violent riots across the city — gave an insight into the wild and wacky style that will dominate trends in the year ahead.

Dutch fashion house Viktor & Rolf made a literal statement with singer Shakira’s viral “no” blazer a front row spectacle, and a bra comprised of the word “dream” and onesie emblazoned with the words “I wish you well” on the actual runway.

It was all a dream! A model walks the runway at the Viktor & Rolf Haute fall/winter ‘23/’24 show at Paris couture fashion week. Picture: Getty Images

Say it with statement couture. I wish you well. Picture: Getty Images

Of the collection, Vogue Australia fashion features director Alice Birrell said: “The joy of a Viktor & Rolf show is undoubtedly the fun, but equally the mystery that surrounds the Dutch duo’s gravity- and logic-defying creations”.

“This time around they took slogan dressing to a new level rendering letters in 3D, protruding from a shoulder, or bikini top (you really do have to see it to believe it). As to the meaning of the phrases ‘Dream On’ and ‘No’?

“Well my take is they’re comments on women’s ownership over their own bodies but the artists slash designers, they’d say it’s all in the interpretation.”

Shakira takes control with the power of ‘no’ at Viktor & Rolf. Picture: Getty Images

At Valentino, there was a free the nipple moment from Oppenheimer actor Florence Pugh, and even a dog model at Chanel, while model Kaia Gerber – the daughter of OG ’90s supermodel Cindy Crawford – turned heads in what appeared to be a pair of jeans at Valentino.

“[Gerber’s] walk at Valentino in what appeared to be denim jeans but was actually dyed silk, hand embroidered with beads in various shades of blue to mimic the indigo original was the moment,” said Stellar’s contributing fashion director, Kelly Hume.

Florence Pugh and Naomi Ackie outside Valentino. Picture: Getty Images

Kaia Gerber in Valentino jeans - or are they? Picture: Getty Images

Birds of a feather! Cardi B at Schiaparelli. Picture: Getty Images

A low-key moment for Schiaparelli. Picture: Getty Images

This haute couture season “may not have had the drama of old hat couture”, according to Hume but “it encapsulates the very essence of what couture means today”.

For Sydney-based celebrity stylist Jessica Pecoraro, Schiaperelli and Valentino were a “real highlight”, with Shakira and Anna Dello Russo – the Italian editor-at-large of Vogue Japan – among the best dressed in the front row.

French fashion house Celine was the only one to cancel its presentation because of the outside unrest.

Originally published as From Valentino to Viktor & Rolf: Wild and wacky fashion rules the runways at Paris haute couture fashion week