‘Symbol of empowerment’: What the return of the corset (seen on Emily Ratajkowski to Gigi Hadid) really means
Emily Ratajkowski turned heads at the Vanity Fair Oscars party in an open-fronted Armani corset - a trend that is everywhere from Hollywood to reality.
Entertainment
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It’s no secret that corsets – once a piece of underwear and now well and truly an outer-garment – are back in a big way.
From Gigi Hadid in scarlet-coloured Versace on the runway to Australian designer Viktoria & Woods’ must-have “Omega” bustier, the structured and sexy corset is having a moment.
Emily Ratajkowski put Hollywood tape to the test when she wore a vintage Armani Prive bustier to the Vanity Fair Oscars party this week.
But unlike the days of old when the corset was used to cinch in the waist and define the cleavage under a period-era dress (a la Netflix’s Bridgerton), the modern take on the garment has become a symbol of “empowerment, not oppression”.
“Corsets are not the outmoded, restrictively uncomfortable apparatuses they once were, forcing women’s bodies into unnatural wasp-waists and S-silhouettes,” said Vogue Australia fashion features editor Alice Birrell.
“Instead, they’re flipping the script on confinement and boundaries, becoming a symbol of empowerment not oppression,” Birrell says.
“Today they’re more likely to be made from flexible materials with comfort in mind, in place of rigid boning that was used to coax the body into extreme shapes.
“Designers now make them to celebrate the wearer’s shape, engineering them to show off the natural waist, providing a little bit more structure without excessively manipulating the body. Opt into elasticised versions, or those with generous lacing, to fit to your size.”
THE BRIDGERTON EFFECT
Period dramas Bridgerton, Sanderton, Outlander along with the very modern Kardashians – who were credited with popularising the “hourglass” body shape – have played a role in the corset’s resurgence.
“Though the Bridgerton effect is real – showing up on runways, social media feeds and red carpets everywhere – the reign of the corset was growing before the daring, bodice-heavy period drama took over our screens,” Birrell says.
“You don’t need to be a fan of the show to buy into the trend.
“Fashion milestones like Billie Eilish wearing one on the cover of British Vogue in 2021, and the recent passing of fashion legend Thierry Mugler – whose armour-like body-plating and bold corsetry continues to influence designers today – are helping keep it in high rotation.”
New York-based E! style commentator Zanna Roberts Rassi says the return of the corset is driven by Hollywood, and reflects the fact that “clothes are getting sexier”.
“You’ve got the cutouts, you’re wearing bra tops, embellishments, that’s where the detail is being played now, which is quite unusual,” Rassi, an ambassador for Australian-founded buy now pay later service Afterpay, says.
“Generally, clothes are sexier – that’s where we’re going.”
RUNWAY TO REALITY
The corset design has been on every runway that matters, from Versace and Dior to Mugler and Fendi.
Zoe Kravitz even wore a cat-silhouette corset dress from Oscar de la Renta to the premiere of The Batman (in a reference to her character, Catwoman). Global fashion search engine Lyst noted searches of corsets spiked 74 per cent when Eilish wore her plunging Mugler design for Vogue.
Bridget Veals, David Jones’ general manager of womenswear, says corsets have become “more popular” with Australian shoppers during the past 12 months.
She says consumers are opting for a modern take on the classic, structured style.
“Corsets are becoming a wardrobe staple, styled with sophisticated, tailored pieces like straight leg pants, oversized blazers and trench coats for an effortless look,” Veals adds, pointing to Australian designers Dion Lee, and Viktoria & Woods.
A Viktoria & Woods spokeswoman said the brand had a “100 per cent sell through” with its corsets, which had become a “core part” of its range.
“As the corset is part of the ’90s revival trend, we can certainly expect to see it continue over the next six to 12 months.”
Viktoria & Woods’ “Omega” bustier ($350) has gone viral on Instagram, designed to be worn paired with denim or suit pants for a night time look or under shirting for everyday wear.
“The Omega Bustier was designed with confidence and femininity in mind. This corset top features boning through the body and fabric lined front bodice panels along with adjustable straps and an open-end zipper at centre back,” the Melbourne-based brand has said.
In the mid-2010s, so-called “waist trainers” went viral on Instagram, fuelled by the popularity of the hourglass body type of Kim Kardashian.
Kardashian’s solutionswear brand SKIMS still sells a $126 version of the structured support garment (designed to be worn under clothes and to “accentuate your body’s natural curves”) though the waist trainer itself is no longer a trend.
Now, Kardashian has been known to buy into emerging label Miaou for her corset-as-a-fashion-statement fix.
Originally published as ‘Symbol of empowerment’: What the return of the corset (seen on Emily Ratajkowski to Gigi Hadid) really means
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