Wine: Hahndorf Hill Winery

Larry Jacobs decided during a particularly good Christmas Day lunch that it would be fun to have a small winery.

Born in South Africa and educated as an intensive care doctor, Larry Jacobs decided during a particularly good Christmas Day lunch that it would be fun to have a small vineyard and winery. Visits to Stellenbosch (by plane from Johannesburg) led in 1991 to the establishment of Mulderbosch, which in a few short years became an international brand thanks to its success with sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. Jacobs, it turns out, has a Midas touch with wine.

In 1997 an offer was made for Mulderbosch that was far too good to refuse. Jacobs and his partner Marc Dobson (a journalist) decided to emigrate to Australia. They made their way to the Adelaide Hills, and to a house, micro-winery and vineyard planted to trollinger and blaufränkisch in the early 1990s by a German migrant. It was on the market, but the owner had not sought approval for the winery, relying (it would seem) on his inability to read or understand English.

Jacobs and Dobson purchased the property, transferring winemaking to Shaw + Smith (since 2008 at Lodestone) and began the transformation that has led to extraordinary success for Hahndorf Hill Winery, epitomised by the Best Producer (100 tonnes or less) trophy at the Adelaide Hills Wine Show ’16. The vineyard has been progressively expanded, in particular by the planting of grüner veltliner as a vinous partner to blaufränkisch.

Unable to source healthy grüner in Australia, in 2006 they navigated our strict quarantine protocols to import three clones direct from Austria, followed by another three in 2009. The first release of a South Australian grüner veltliner followed in 2010. Last year the 2015 was awarded double-gold at the Sydney-based Six Nations Wine Challenge; HHW won trophies for shiraz, rosé and pinot grigio and a cascade of gold medals that would make Midas proud.

2016 HAHNDORF HILL WINERY GRU ADELAIDE HILLS GRÜNER VELTLINER

Six clones, handpicked at various baumes, cool or warm-fermented in stainless steel, 30% wild-fermented in old barriques with extended lees contact. Its combination of delicacy, attention to detail and intensity is amazing. Gold medal Adelaide Wine Show ’16. 12% alc, screwcap

97 points, drink to 2026, $28

2016 HAHNDORF HILL WINERY ADELAIDE HILLS ROSÉ

39% trollinger, 36% pinot noir, 25% merlot. The perfumed rose petal, spicy bouquet opens the door of a palate with exceptional drive. It is dry and delicate yet intriguing and perfectly balanced. Gold medal and trophy Winewise ’16, gold medal Melbourne Wine Awards ’16. 13% alc, screwcap

96 points, drink to 2020, $23

2014 HAHNDORF HILL WINERY ADELAIDE HILLS SHIRAZ

Hand-picked, largely destemmed and crushed, with some whole bunches, cold soaked pre-fermentation, matured in French barriques for 11 months. Every atom of this medium-bodied wine is in its place and in balance. Flavours? Spice, cherry and plum. 14% alc, screwcap

95 points, drink to 2034, $35