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Victoria’s best new restaurants offer diners a whole world of flavour

Refined French classics, bold Portuguese dishes, and punchy offerings from regional Thailand and India – Victoria’s best new dining experiences showcase a world of flavour.

Among the very best openings of the year is Southern Thai-style restaurant R. Harn from the team behind Soi 38. Picture: Supplied
Among the very best openings of the year is Southern Thai-style restaurant R. Harn from the team behind Soi 38. Picture: Supplied
The Weekend Australian Magazine

From Melbourne’s bustling streets to the serene landscapes of the Mornington Peninsula,

these are our picks of the ‘hottest’ dining destinations in Victoria, as featured in the Hot 50 Restaurants issue of The Weekend Australian Magazine.

We’ve assembled a list of standout new venues and experiences captivating food lovers in Victoria – and there are plenty of them. After all, this is the Australian state which has long been synonymous with premier food and hospitality, and it remains so today with a series of 2024-25 openings showcasing the talent of kitchen staff, and the robust produce of the region.

What is more evident than ever is the diverse multicultural cuisine. Entries below cover refined French classics to bold Portuguese flavours, and punchy dishes from regional Thailand and India.

The Hot 50 Restaurants and Food Issue of The Australian Weekend Magazine, out this Saturday.
The Hot 50 Restaurants and Food Issue of The Australian Weekend Magazine, out this Saturday.

TOP VICTORIA RESTAURANTS

Marmelo, Melbourne

A Sydney chef/restaurateur in a Melbourne hotel serving Portuguese food is a recipe that surely cannot work, you’d think. And yet Marmelo, the new Russell Street restaurant of Ross Lusted (formerly of Woodcut and the much-missed Bridge Room), is that mercurial thing – a venue that defies how it seems on paper. Occupying a street-level space in the seriously lovely Melbourne Place hotel, the restaurant is glassy and brassy and yet the warmth coming out of the kitchen in dishes such as wood-roasted cockerel with African spices, chilli and fried potatoes, and calamari with goat milk butter and soft herbs, is winning fans – and not just those bunkered down for the night in the hotel. Expect bold flavours, big ideas and a lot of gloss. This is a restaurant that shows that hotel dining can be so good you won’t want to leave the premises, even in a city crowded with options.

marmelorestaurant.com.au

Arroz de Marisco with Carolino rice and grilled, poached and cured seafood. Picture: Anson Smart
Arroz de Marisco with Carolino rice and grilled, poached and cured seafood. Picture: Anson Smart
Blue swimmer crab egg tart (right) and cauliflower egg tart with caviar. Picture: Anson Smart
Blue swimmer crab egg tart (right) and cauliflower egg tart with caviar. Picture: Anson Smart

Maison Batard, Melbourne

Restaurateur Chris Lucas hasn’t divulged how much he spent creating Maison Batard, his extravagant homage to all things French in Bourke Street, but he’s going to have to sell a lot of chateaubriand to make his money back. Because to sit in this sumptuous dining room is to be pampered by visual splendour. From the cold seafood bars to the cocktail and desert trolleys that roam the room, there is always something to look at here. The food is sharp and precise French fare, a panoply of classics from the aforementioned steak for two served tableside, to oysters, Comté gougères, tuna Niçoise salade, lobster omelette, chicken liver paté, King George whiting with mustard Parisienne and roasted John Dory with chardonnay caper sauce. There’s steak, there’s salad, there’s duck, there’s seafood, there’s pommes frites, there’s petits pois et lardons, there’s chocolate mousse. There’s everything you could possibly want, and then some. Félicitations, Monsieur Lucas.

maisonbatard.com.au

Salmon Gravlax from Chris Lucas’ fine dining extravaganza Maison Batard. Picture: Supplied
Salmon Gravlax from Chris Lucas’ fine dining extravaganza Maison Batard. Picture: Supplied
From the cold seafood bars to the cocktail and desert trolleys that roam the room – there is always something to look at. Picture: Supplied
From the cold seafood bars to the cocktail and desert trolleys that roam the room – there is always something to look at. Picture: Supplied

Barragunda Dining, Mornington Peninsula

Another Australian dining trend that shows no sign of slowing is the old-fashioned art of presenting fresh-sourced produce in the simplest form possible, allowing each sun-ripened or grass-fed element to shine. The 40-seat Barragunda Dining at Cape Schanck on the Mornington Peninsula is a queen of the genre, making use of the very best fruit, vegetables, beef and lamb from the restaurant’s own 400ha estate, complemented by local seafood and wines. The results – served in a four-course tasting menu ($155) – are gentle and restrained: tomatoes served with stracciatella, the brine of Mornington mussels playing off a smooth sunflower cream. This is not food for those who seek flashiness or restaurant-y tricks, but for anyone who knows nature is the best chef of all.

barragunda.com.au

Green almond danish (centre) and a plate of crudite with leek top sabayon in the foreground. Picture: Arianna Harry
Green almond danish (centre) and a plate of crudite with leek top sabayon in the foreground. Picture: Arianna Harry
Barragunda Black Angus rump with new season alliums. Picture: Arianna Harry
Barragunda Black Angus rump with new season alliums. Picture: Arianna Harry

Kolkata Cricket Club, Melbourne

Regional rather than generic “Indian food” is beginning to get a stronger grip on the Broad Australian psyche (see also Kolkata Social in Sydney and Enter Via Laundry in Melbourne). Bengali cuisine is the focus at this palm-tree-printed restaurant inside Melbourne’s Crown Casino, led by rising star Mischa Tropp. Puchka (the Bengali version of panipuri) delivers a tangy jolt from its filling of tamarind water, while the kosha mangsho (goat curry) reminds diners of its Bengali roots with its punch of mustard oil. The wine list is a mix of familiar local and international bottles, along with a section dedicated to Indian producers based in Australia.

kolkatacricketclub.com

Showcasing the best of Bengali cuisine at Kolkata Cricket Club. Picture: Supplied
Showcasing the best of Bengali cuisine at Kolkata Cricket Club. Picture: Supplied
Kolkata Cricket Club’s puchka delivers a tangy jolt. Picture: Supplied
Kolkata Cricket Club’s puchka delivers a tangy jolt. Picture: Supplied

R. Harn, Melbourne

Fans of Soi 38 know that the beloved carpark restaurant (which has recently moved inside a more traditional four walls) is one of the best places in Melbourne to devour tablefuls of northern and Bangkok-style Thai dishes. Now Soi has a southern sister, R. Harn, on La Trobe Street. Southern Thai cuisines tends to bring the heat, like a piquant, sour gaeng som curry, and there’s also a focus on seafood, like a sweet-and-spicy caramelised squid. The mashup of retro chairs and multi-patterned crockery gives the restaurant a homely, lo-fi atmosphere.

rharn.com.au

From top left: Deep Fried Chicken, Spicy Pork Soft Bone Curry, or ‘Tao Kua’ and R Harn’s Golden Cups. Picture: Supplied
From top left: Deep Fried Chicken, Spicy Pork Soft Bone Curry, or ‘Tao Kua’ and R Harn’s Golden Cups. Picture: Supplied

Morena, Melbourne

Peruvian-born chef Alejandro Saravia’s first iteration of Morena hit the Melbourne dining scene in 2011, slinging Latin-American plates for two years before calling last orders. After the doors shut, Saravia busied himself with Farmer’s Daughters and Victoria by Farmer’s Daughters, leaving the Morena concept to lie fallow but not forgotten. Now resurrected in Little Collins Street, Morena brings a cache of Latin influences from Central America to the Caribbean Coast, all backdropped by Aussie ingredients. Opt in for Otway pork chicharron skewers and pisco prawns from South Australia paired with excellent Latino vino.

morenarestaurant.com.au

Venison loin tartlet with plantain and ajicero. Picture: Arianna Harry
Venison loin tartlet with plantain and ajicero. Picture: Arianna Harry
The relaxed and warm interiors of Morena. Picture: Arianna Harry
The relaxed and warm interiors of Morena. Picture: Arianna Harry

Gigi, Prahran, Melbourne

An antidote to the blondwood hues and smoothed edges of fashion-adherent interiors, Gigi is an elaborate velvet-trimmed parlour of candelabras and cut glass, where the tarts are embellished with caviar, the prawn cocktail’s Marie Rose sauce is moussed, and mushrooms are draped in bechamel. Sister to beloved brasserie Entrecote, this heavily French-accented wine bar has arrived in Prahran ready to pop the Champagne for all manner of occasions, from clandestine late-night rendezvous to Sunday afternoon high teas.

gigimelbourne.com.au

Smoked pork cocktail frankenfurters with dijon mustard. Picture: Chege Mbuthi
Smoked pork cocktail frankenfurters with dijon mustard. Picture: Chege Mbuthi
Inside the Gigi dining room. Picture: Supplied
Inside the Gigi dining room. Picture: Supplied

Times New Roman, Brunswick East, Melbourne

It’s pasta for the people at this Brunswick East spin-off from popular eatery Good Times. With an ethos that prizes that extra glass of pinot and weekly reruns by patrons over a one-and-done outing that drains the bank account for a month, Times New Roman’s owners are continuing to roll out budget-crisis-compatible hospitality. There’s a rotation of six pastas, which start at just $6 a plate, plus antipasti plates, that all do nicely with the list of affordable wines (by the glass for less than $12), beers and cocktails. In true democratic fashion, walk-ins and bookings are both welcome, but space is limited.

timesnewbrunswick.com

Times New Roman turns out delicious (and affordable) fare in Brunswick. Picture: Supplied
Times New Roman turns out delicious (and affordable) fare in Brunswick. Picture: Supplied

Chandon Homestead, Coldstream

The first cuvées of Chandon’s Yarra Valley estate were released in 1989. Since then it’s been an eternal popping of corks, with sparkling devotees making their way to the property to sip and savour. The newest experience, unveiled this year, offers a private Etoile tasting for one in the heritage Chandon Homestead, restored so magnificently this year under the steerage of Melbourne-based interior designer Melanie Beynon. The bespoke tasting, including cheese and canapes, is $90.

chandon.com.au/homestead

Picturesque Chandon Homestead at Coldstream. Picture: Supplied
Picturesque Chandon Homestead at Coldstream. Picture: Supplied

View the Hot 50 FULL LIST here.

To discover the best new restaurants in NSW click here

To discover the best new restaurants in Queensland click here

To discover the best new restaurants in South Australia click here

To discover the best new restaurants in Tasmania click here

To discover the best new restaurants in Western Australia click here

Australia’s Hot 50 Restaurants has been compiled for The Australian Weekend Magazine by Elizabeth Meryment, with additional submissions from Alexandra Carlton, Lara Picone, Nick Ryan and Max Brearly.

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Original URL: https://www.theaustralian.com.au/weekend-australian-magazine/victorias-best-new-restaurants-offer-diners-a-whole-world-of-flavour/news-story/1a3a74a43e714d011c345e4bf6616beb