‘Unquestionably one for the ages’: the 2021 Henschke vintage nails the brief

Staggeringly intricate, a mansion of many rooms, a wine that reveals more of itself with every moment - Henschke’s 2021 vintage shall be venerated among its best ever.

Henschke’s 2021 vintage is outstanding.

Stephen and Prue Henschke always seem keenly aware of the passage of time. When I arrive at their winery to taste the single vineyard wines from the 2021 vintage to be released in May, they’re kind enough to not mention I’m late. Perhaps they’re distracted by the rain. In the depths of a brutal drought the natural reaction to feeling drops fall from the sky is to count the number of days since being similarly spattered. Then, in this place that has seen more than 150 years of Henschke farming and winemaking, we discuss the past few weeks, the rigours of vintage, how the months just passed compare to years long gone and start to speculate, even though we know it’s unwise, on the wines these bubbling ferments might become decades from now. Then we go way, way back.

A trip to Antarctica last year has filled Prue’s head with ancient rocks, her questioning mind wandering ancient super-continents and contemplating the unimaginable origins of the soils in which her vines take root. It seems appropriate that thoughts are stretched by the span of time as we sit down to taste wines from a vintage that is unquestionably one for the ages. I’m always impressed by the ability of most winemakers to recall the nature of vintages past, but Stephen and Prue Henschke’s is next-level. There is comparison and context at every turn, both deftly accessing a rich library of memory and experience built over decades of growing and making wine side by side.

2021 was built on a 2020 winter of average rainfall, a spring of minor challenges and the coolest summer and spring since Steven’s beloved 2002 vintage. Prue sees similarity with the celebrated 2005 vintage, and echoes of the legendary 1986. When a season of abundant blessings is bestowed upon a winemaker at the top of their game, something of timeless beauty happens. And that’s just what’s happened here.

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HENSCHKE ‘MOUNT EDELSTONE’ SHIRAZ 2021

$275

Perfectly ripe plums and a swirl of spices: cardamom, coriander, nutmeg, star anise. Dark raspberry, tarragon and sage. Restrained exuberance and perfect balance. Satiny and supple with an even, assured momentum. A wine so beautifully complete, nothing unresolved.

14.5% alcohol, 97 points

HENSCHKE ‘HILL OF ROSES’ SHIRAZ 2021

$485

Cuttings from the best of the ‘Grandfather’ vines planted in 1989. The fruit is dark and brambly, all lifted spice and flexed muscle. Blackberries, dark plums, some nori and iodine savouriness, a generous dusting of mace and five spice. A multi-layered wine of conviction and purpose.

14.5% alcohol, 96 points

HENSCHKE ‘HILL OF GRACE’ SHIRAZ 2021

$1000

Staggeringly intricate, a mansion of many rooms, a wine that reveals more of itself with every moment. Plums, spiced quince, brambles, blackberries, raspberry, fig, five spice, star anise, bay leaf and panforte. A good Hill of Grace is to be cherished, a great Hill of Grace venerated. This unquestionably is one of the greats.

14.5% alcohol, 99 points