Tribal wine warrior Ken Helm’s wise move
Ken Helm first thrust his spear in the holy ground of the Canberra district 50 years ago, planting riesling and cabernet sauvignon. His impact is still felt today, writes James Halliday.
Ken Helm is a tribal warrior who first thrust his spear in the holy ground of the Canberra district 50 years ago. He chose to plant riesling and cabernet sauvignon, which proved to be wise. But for upwards of 20 years riesling suffered the ignominy of corks, with screwcaps only a twinkle in the night sky. Cabernet sauvignon is a truly noble red variety, but is more prickly to deal with, in both the fermenter and marketplace, compared to the amiable crowd-pleaser shiraz. Helm rose to the challenge by enrolling nextdoor neighbour Al Lustenberger to grow exceptional riesling and cabernet.
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But there were other, even greater challenges. Local wineries were entirely dependent on the very small politician cohort, who would be driven out to enjoy the wines and buy small quantities. This came under fire when a member of parliament was caught failing to record a trip. Then there were frost events that wiped out newly planted vines, and an overarching lack of knowledge in dealing with lean, tough soils and miserable yields – until irrigation (which was a dirty word back then) was used.
Helm sought to build brand awareness with a snowstorm of DIY press releases. Even a bronze medal at a small town show was sufficient to set the flurries of pages winging their way to all and sundry. When elder daughter Stephanie returned from nine years in London as a political and public relations advisor, she promptly issued an edict that she, not her father, would henceforth handle all PR.
A major coup was setting up the successful International Riesling Challenge in Canberra in 2000. It, and earlier Helm initiatives, led the NSW government to present Ken with the 1999 Graham Gregory Award for his contributions to the NSW wine industry, followed in 2006 by the Wolf Blass Award. In 2010 he was made a Member of the Order of Australia. All deserved.
2023 Helm Premium Canberra District Riesling
The more times you re-taste the wine, the more its intensity and purity take hold of your senses. Apple, lemon and lime form a trifecta that frame the picture of the complex fruit, and the sheer power of a great riesling.
97 points, drink to 2043, 11% alc, screwcap, $60
2023 Helm Tumbarumba Riesling
The citrus and apple blossom of the bouquet and piercing drive of the palate have Germanic overtones as lime and glittering acidity take control of proceedings. A glorious wine at an enticing price. Tumbarumba is a relatively new region for riesling, but is ideally suited.
96 points, drink to 2038, 11.5% alc, screwcap, $40
2023 Helm Classic Dry Canberra District Riesling
Sourced from four estate vineyards dating back to 1975. The aromas waste no time in establishing their class, and underpin the citrus fruit intertwined with bright acidity. The palate has extreme length and a lingering aftertaste. All three wines underline the strength of this great vintage.
95 points, drink to 2033, 11% alc, screwcap, $45