This unorthodox winter fruit will transform your salads into plates of beauty

This is a simple way to transform the fragrant yet inedible allure of quince into something that works beautifully with cheese but also in salads, with roast meats, and on top of yoghurt.

Pink radicchio salad with poached quince. Photography by Joann Pai.

When I come across the fuzzy, yellow, wonky-shaped quince that are hard and astringent and basically impossible when raw, I poach them. It’s a simple way to transform their deceptively fragrant yet inedible allure into something that works beautifully with cheese but also in your salads, next to roast meats, and on top of yoghurt or ice cream.

Try also my French roast lamb and seasonal clam, lemon and fennel pasta.

Le Sud: Recipes from Provence-Alpes-Cote d'Azur by Rebekah Peppler.

Pink Radicchio Salad with Poached Quince. Le Sud: Recipes from Provence-Alpes-Cote d'Azur by Rebekah Peppler. Photography by Joann Pai. Chronicle Books.

Poached quince

• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 4 to 5 medium quinces

1. In a medium saucepan, combine 4 cups of water with the sugar. Place the pan over medium heat and bring just to a simmer. Turn the heat to low and cook, stirring gently, just until the sugar dissolves.
2. Turn off the heat and peel and quarter each quince one by one, adding it to the sugar syrup before starting on the next. Cut a piece of baking paper into a circle that just fits inside the saucepan. Turn on the heat again to medium and return the mixture to a simmer. Set the parchment circle on top (it should be touching the surface) and adjust the heat to maintain a very gentle simmer.
3. Cook until the quince pieces are tender and rose pink in color, 1½ to 2 hours.
4. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside to cool completely. Store the quince in their poaching liquid in the refrigerator for up to 10 days.

Winter salad

• 1 large pink radicchio, trimmed and leaves separated, larger leaves roughly torn
• 2 small red radicchio, trimmed and leaves separated, larger leaves roughly torn
• 6 poached quince quarters, cored and thinly sliced
• 1 cup walnuts, toasted
• Flaky sea salt
• Freshly ground black pepper

Layer the radicchio leaves and poached quince in a serving bowl. Drizzle the vinaigrette over the salad and finish with the walnuts. Season with flaky sea salt and pepper.

Vinaigrette

• 2 shallots, thinly sliced
• ¼ cup sherry vinegar
• Fine sea salt and ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 2 teaspoons quince poaching liquid or honey
• ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1. In a resealable jar, add the shallots and vinegar. Season with sea salt and pepper, stir to combine, and let sit for 15 minutes.
2. Add the mustard and poaching liquid, then pour in the oil, cover the jar tightly with a lid, and shake to emulsify.
3. The vinaigrette will keep, stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator, for up to 3 days.

Serves 6