See the colours of the outback in style at this former South Australian sheep station
Arkaba used to be a sheep station. The new owners have turned it into a conservatory, meaning it’s being returned to a place where natural sounds of the Australian bush can thrive.
We were somewhere around Parachilna on the edge of the South Australian desert when … wait, stop, STOP! Is that an emu? It was an emu, and it was so exciting to see one in the wild. They’re such ridiculous creatures, aren’t they? It’s the way they dash around, feather tails bouncing, frantic for no apparent reason. I had to stop the car and get a photograph, and then, not two minutes later, I had to say: Wait, stop! There’s another one.
Turns out they’re everywhere inthe Flinders Ranges, including on your plate, but more on that later.
We went to South Australia to experience the “accessible Outback”. Did you know you can fly into Adelaide, pick up a hire car and in a matter of hours have red dirt beneath your boots? You can.
We took a 9am flight out of busy Sydney and by noon we were in the Clare Valley. Where to stop for lunch? There are so many choices, and 40 cellar doors. We chose Skillogalee. The century-old stone cottage where lunch is normally served was under repair, but they have replaced it (for now) with the Barrel House, where sun pours onto the deck and tables overlook the vineyard. You won’t find a better cottage pie, and the wines are heavenly.
Another option is the Watervale Hotel, built in 1847. Fun fact: women have been in charge for most of its history, including right now. It was once a stop for bullock drivers, who liked to gamble on bare-knuckle fights. There’s an old-style jail out the back in which the drunks were thrown. Things are rather more genteel these days. The jail has been turned into a private dining room, and all meals in the restaurant are sourced either from the Penobscot Farm down the road, or locally (think free-range, grass-fed, sustainable.) I don’t think I’ve ever had a better rosemary spud than the ones they serve.
If you don’t want to keep driving after lunch, there are plenty of places to stay. We chose the Clare Hillside Apartments. They are sleek, and new, but you could also try Bed In A Shed (built by an artist from recycled materials) or the Pink Lake Tiny House. In the morning, try Café 1871 for breakfast; it’s famous for its oozing three-cheese toastie.
Pushing on, we easily found one of the region’s other famous tourist attractions, the “monster of Lake Bumbunga”, sitting on a pink salt lake. It’s the least convincing Loch Ness style sculpture you’ve ever seen (apparently locals in the pub came up with the idea to build it, and it seems like they assembled it drunk, or maybe just at night). When the lake is dry, you can walk right up to it to get your selfie.
Further north still, you’ll find the Prairie Hotel in Parachilna (population five, four of whom work in the hotel; the fifth drinks there). The Prairie Hotel leans into all things Australiana, by which I mean they do an emu paté and a kangaroo schnitzel, so you can “eat the coat of arms”. Good food, and good fun.
From there, we headed on toward the gem in the Flinders Ranges, Arkaba, a 26,000ha outback property anchored by a sweetly restored 1856 homestead in which you – lucky you – can now stay. Arkaba used to be a sheep station. The new owners, Wild Bush Luxury, have turned the property into a conservatory, meaning it’s being returned, as much as possible, to a place where natural sounds of the Australian bush can thrive.
The homestead has five bedrooms, each with an ensuite. The beds, adorned with sheepskin headboards, are comfortable; alternatively you can sleep under the stars (side note: we stepped onto the wide veranda before dawn one morning and saw Starlink, the constellation of high-speed internet satellites put into space by Elon Musk. You must keep an eye out for it. It’s easily one of the best things I’ve ever seen, marching across the night sky like a luminous caterpillar).
By day, the staff will take you out in a jeep to experience the property. They have plenty of wildlife, including tons of wallaroos (they are smaller than kangaroos, larger than wallabies, and cuter than either). You will learn all about the efforts to coax native animals back to Arkaba, too. For example, the new owners are doing all they can to get rid of feral cats, which can grow up to 10kg and feast on defenceless marsupials and emu chicks; they are also trying to get rid of feral goats, and bring back the quoll. You can also visit the old wool shed, which still smells of lanolin.
Staff helped us organise a scenic flight over the Flinders Ranges, too. Our pilot knew everything about the landscape below, and told wonderful stories about pioneer families that had tried to tame it (one family tried for 17 years to get a crop going before packing it in). All meals at Arkaba are included, and served at the communal table. The wines are excellent.
Before you go, let the guides take you out to see the sunrise. You’ll settle into a camp chair with your mitts around a steaming mug of coffee and there will be no noise and no wi-fi signal, and as the sun casts its golden dawn light on the ranges, you’ll be about as happy as you’ve ever been.
Checklist
Getting there: Arkaba Homestead (experiencearkaba.com) is reached by sealed tarmac all the way from Adelaide (ie, you don’t need a four wheel drive). There is wi-fi in the living room but nowhere else (like a guest on The White Lotus, you can choose to give up your phone). It’s not wise to drive at dawn or dusk (there’ll be emus, kangaroos and wallaroos on the road). The drive time from Adelaide to the Clare Valley is around one hour and 45 mins; to Arbaka from there is another three hours and 30 minutes.
Stay: Arkaba’s Wild Bush Luxury experience is $2075 per room, per night, including all bush-inspired meals, open bar and tours. You can also do a three-day walk, sleeping under the stars (prices vary by season).
Eat: Meals at Arkaba (all included) are served around a well-worn wool-classing table, under the stars if it’s warm enough, or on the wide verandah, so you will be dining with a small group of fellow guests, with many fine tales to tell. It’s an open bar, and you’re just outside the Barossa, so you can be sure that the wines are excellent. The chef ensures that meals are, where possible, locally sourced, organic and free-range. It’s all delicious. Slow-cooked lamb? Tempura saltbush? And then a nightcap around the firepit? Yes please. In Clare Valley, try Skillogalee (skillogalee.com.au), Watervale Hotel (watervalehotel.com.au) and Cafe 1871 (cafe1871.com.au)
Do: Take it slow. The journey into the Flinders Ranges is so lovely. Eat and drink and take plenty of photographs of the old stone buildings. tourism.sa.gov.au
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