Mordrelle Wines live up to the promise of being malbec’s clone
Dr Martin Moran claims a mix of destiny and fortune — or just life — led him to Australia where he established Mordrelle Wines in 2010.
Argentinian born and trained Dr Martin Moran has crammed a lot into a life, spanning continents and decades, since he was born in 1980. Studying in Mendoza, he undertook a degree in agriculture specialising in viticulture and oenology. Destiny, fortune or just life brought him to a beautiful home in the Adelaide Hills.
One of his areas of special interest is traditional-method blanc de blancs with extended (five to 10 years) time on lees. At the other extreme was a research project into Langhorne Creek malbec in the 2017 to 2019 seasons, funded by Wine Australia. Martin wisecracks that he may be the only Argentinian making malbec in Australia. (Malbec is to Argentina what shiraz is to Australia.)
The Australian Society of Viticulture and Oenology publishes annual awards for excellence across five categories. In 2021, the award for the ASVO Oenology Paper of the Year went to Moran for analysing the impact on chemical and sensory attributes of wines made from grapes picked later than usual. It has been long known that pruning at or after budburst delays the ripening cycle, but correlation of wine quality hadn’t been scientifically studied until then. All this might create the inference of full-time research (he has a PhD in Viticulture and Oenology), but in 2010 Martin and wife Michelle established Mordrelle Wines with help from Michelle’s parents David and Jane Dreckow. Situated in Hahndorf, the grapes come from their own small vineyard and local growers for late disgorged blanc de blancs sparkling wines, and eight glorious wines from Langhorne Creek growers.
And that’s not all. Moran still plays football and fervently supports the Argentine national team. He plays the guitar and is a master at the Argentinian barbecue. His revered father, Jose Luis Moran, was a painter up to his death in 2010; some of his many works are on Mordrelle’s labels. Finally, Moran and Michelle have three sons aged five, nine and 11. Cheap labour, he jests.
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2021 Mordrelle Wines Langhorne Creek Malbec Lagrein Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz
A 50/35/10/5% blend; destemmed; excellent colour. This lives up to the promise of the colour and the pure fragrance of malbec’s clone. High-class tannins and a silky mouthfeel, the flavours ranging through red, black and blue fruits. Drop-dead beautiful stuff. Celestial value. 3300 bottles produced. 13.8% alc, screwcap 97 points, drink to 2035, $35
2021 Mordrelle Wines The Gaucho Langhorne Creek Malbec
Deep purple announces a malbec of outstanding depth, texture and structure. Its magic stems from the rivulet of acidity that flows throughout the long palate. It results in black fruits that draw you back to the spices and dark chocolate and impeccable management of tannins. 13.5% alc, screwcap 96 points, drink to 2035, $35
2019 Mordrelle Wines Basket Press Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon
Destemmed, not crushed, 18 months maturation in barrels. Good colour; fragrant cassis/redcurrant bouquet, also a touch of choc mint. A smooth velvety palate – striking. Fine spun tannins attest to the skilled vinification. 3000 bottles produced. 14.5% alc, screwcap 96 points, drink to 2039, $35