It’s time to acknowledge the real heroes in our lives, the mums

Mother’s Day matters because we often need to be reminded of just how much mums do for us.

Crumpets with creme fraiche and salmon roe. Photo: Nikki To / TWAM

Of all the heroes we celebrate, the ones who often go unnoticed are the mothers – the quiet everyday architects of our lives. They stitch the world together not with grand gestures or shining medals, but with small, regular acts of love that are woven into our memories like a soundtrack to our lives we didn’t even realise we were humming along to. That is why Mother’s Day matters, because we often need to be reminded of just how much they do for us.

Mothers rarely ask for much, but they deserve everything. Maybe not the cards plucked last-minute from supermarket shelves or the glossy flowers that wilt by Monday, but the simple ­gesture of making something by hand whether it be a homemade cake, a hand-written note or a breakfast carried clumsily on a tray.

Crumpets, those little rounds of warm, soft sponginess, are the perfect beginning to a Mother’s Day brunch.

They are not difficult, but they are deliberate. You must want to make them. You must be prepared for the pause, the rest in the rhythm of the day they demand – the hour the yeasted batter takes to breathe and lift, to ferment into something more than flour and water and milk. You warm the pan slowly. ­Butter it generously. Spoon in the batter until it puckers and pops, the characteristic bubbles blooming on the surface. Slightly spongy, warm and golden on the outside, there’s something deeply comforting about crumpets. Fresh from the pan, they are one of life’s small, perfect pleasures – far removed from the shop-bought versions. The best crumpets have a crisp edge, browned from the heat of the pan, and a tender, airy centre that rises gently beneath the surface. Their lunar surface of uneven holes eagerly awaits a generous slather of butter, that then melts and disappears into every crevice.

A crumpet is like a little hug on a plate, warm and uplifting. They are also versatile, able to shift from sweet to savoury depending on your mood, offering the perfect vehicle for whatever you crave. While honey or golden syrup is a satisfying partner, a touch of trout roe, bursting with delicate saltiness, transforms crumpets into something special for a Mother’s Day brunch.

A spritz adds a touch of celebration, this one pink and bright, with the soft perfume of rhubarb and elderflower. Ginger and orange peel bring lift, warmth and a suggestion of depth mingling with the rhubarb. The remaining cordial can be packaged in a bottle as a ­present for Mum to enjoy throughout the year. Like the scrawled card or drawing, the best presents are the ones made by hand with love.

Crumpets can be luxed up with the addition of creme fraiche and salmon roe.

The finished product. Photography: Nikki To / TWAM

Crumpets

Ingredients

• 180g plain flour
• 150ml whole milk
• 150ml water
• 1 teaspoon caster sugar
• 1 teaspoon dried yeast
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• Oil or butter, for greasing
• 100g crème fraîche
• 80g trout roe
• Handful chives, finely chopped

Method

1. Gently warm the milk and water together until lukewarm. Stir in the sugar and yeast. Set aside for 10-15 minutes until the surface is frothy and bubbling. In a large mixing bowl, sift together the flour, salt and baking powder. Pour in the yeast mixture and whisk vigorously with an electric mixer for about 2 minutes, until the batter is smooth and slightly elastic. Cover the bowl with a clean cloth or clingfilm and leave it in a warm place (around 25C) for 45 minutes. The batter should become light and airy, with small bubbles appearing on the surface.
2. Lightly oil your crumpet rings and place them in a heavy-based frying pan over medium heat. Brush the pan with a little oil or butter. Fill each ring halfway up with batter. Cook gently until the surface is covered with bubbles and the tops are beginning to set – about 5-6 minutes. Adjust the heat down if needed to avoid scorching the bottoms.
3. When the tops are just set, carefully remove the rings. Flip the crumpets and cook for 1-2 minutes on the second side – turn the heat up slightly to achieve a light golden colour, then reduce it again to cook through without drying them out. Serve warm, lavishly buttered along with the crème fraîche, trout roe and chives.

Makes 8-10, depending on size

Light and refreshing, this spritz is the perfect treat.

Rhubarb is coming into season. Photo: Nikki To / TWAM

Rhubarb & Elderflower spritz

Ingredients

For the rhubarb & elderflower cordial

• 1 bunch rhubarb
• 1 knob of ginger, sliced
• Zest of ½ orange
• 500ml elderflower cordial

For the spritz

• 40ml gin
• 40ml rhubarb and elderflower cordial
• 90ml sparkling wine or soda water
• Wedges of lemon and fresh herbs, like sprigs of rosemary, to garnish

Method

Roughly chop the rhubarb and place in a pot with the sliced ginger and orange zest. Add the elderflower cordial and on a medium heat bring to a light simmer for 10-12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the rhubarb begins to break down. Remove the pot from the heat and allow to cool for five minutes before straining through a fine sieve. Bottle, chill, and enjoy with your mixer of choice. You can just add soda water if you wish to make it non-alcoholic. But Mum probably deserves a drink on Mother’s Day, so for each drink pour 40ml of gin and 40ml of cordial over ice and top with either 90ml soda water or sparkling wine. Garnish and enjoy!