Heavily influenced by French cuisine, the food of this city is worth savouring

The pastry bears a resemblance to a French mille-feuille or pithivier, but the Basques made it their own.

Lennox Hastie’s Pantxineta. Photo: Nikki To / TWAM

San Sebastián is a city of quiet elegance that awakens gradually, stretching into the morning with the scent of fresh bread and roasted coffee against the backdrop of maritime air. The old part of this city in Spain’s Basque country is a tangle of ­narrow streets that comes to life as its bars and bakeries open. Inside the panaderías, trays of golden bollos (buns) sit in neat rows, their crusts cracking just so when torn apart. Locals clutch them in waxed paper, the soft crumb still warm as they sip from small cups of thick, dark coffee.

If you’re lucky you might find a fresh pantxineta – my favourite flaky pastry – still warm from the oven, its soft custard hidden within. It was invented by the Casa Otaegui bakery during the early 20th century when San Sebastián was the fashionable summer retreat for Spanish royalty.

Heavily influenced by French cuisine, the pastry bears a resemblance to a French mille-feuille or pithivier, but the Basques made it their own, incorporating their love for sherry, custard and almonds. I used to eat it by the slice standing at the counter, watching the old men in the plaza swirl orujo (the local pomace brandy) into their morning coffee, their conversation unhurried, the world outside barely stirring.

Time moves slowly for the Basques; they like to appreciate every moment, maintaining their traditions and preserving their identity through food. ­Escabeche is one of those “preserved” dishes. Unlike ceviche – where the acid of citrus transforms raw seafood – escabeche starts with heat, gently pickling cooked seafood or meat in vinegar, oil and spices. Introduced by the Moors, the technique spread through Spain, then Latin America, adapting to local tastes – mackerel in Andalusia, sardines in Catalonia, even chicken and peppers in the Philippines. The Basques have their own version using quail or mussels.

Mussels are plump, punchy and perfect for escabeche, but I often find the tinned ones overcooked and vinegared, rendering the mussels mushy. Mine is a brighter, fresher take on escabeche, where the briny mussels meet the sweetness of carrot juice, the citrus hit of orange and the depth of pimentón.

While you can steam the mussels, I prefer to grill them – their rich fat ­carries the sweet smoke through the juices as it soaks into the toasted bread. My mouth is watering as I write this. San Sebastián continues to linger on my palate some 14 years after I left the place, its flavours etched into memory. It’s not just about the food but the way it is experienced – at the counter of a bakery, in the hum of a bar, or shared around a table where time stretches, just a little longer, to savour one last bite.

Pickling the mussels is the key to this dish.

Mussels in the shell. Photo: Nikki To / TWAM

Mussels escabeche

• 2kg mussels, scrubbed and ­de-bearded
• 1kg carrots, peeled
• Zest and juice of 2 oranges
• 40ml sherry vinegar or white wine vinegar
• 1 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 70ml olive oil
• 1 bay leaf
• ½ teaspoon pimentón (smoked paprika)
• 2 thick slices of sourdough or ciabatta
• Handful of parsley, leaves washed, picked and torn
• Handful of karkalla (beach banana, optional)
• Sea salt, to taste

Method

1. Slice one carrot into thin slices, reserve, and juice the remaining carrots. In a pan over medium heat, combine the carrot juice, orange zest and juice, bring to the boil and reduce to 250ml. Use a spatula to scrape down the edges and whisk well to recombine the reduced particles.
2. Remove from the heat and while still warm, whisk in 60ml of the olive oil, the sherry vinegar and a pinch of salt. Bring back to the boil, add the sliced carrots, garlic and bay leaf, and then remove from the heat.
3. Heat a grill or barbecue to high. Place the mussels directly on the grill and cover. Cook until they just pop open, about 2-3 minutes, and place in a bowl. Discard any that remain closed. Remove most of the mussels from their shells but keep a few in-shell for presentation. Strain the briny mussel juices and add to the escabeche dressing before pouring over the mussels, allowing them to absorb the flavours for a few minutes.
4. Tear the bread into bite-sized pieces and toss with a drizzle of olive oil (10ml), a pinch of salt and a pinch of pimentón, then toast on the barbecue for 5-6 minutes until crisp and golden. Arrange the mussels over the toasted sourdough, letting the juices soak into the bread. Scatter with torn parsley and karkalla and sprinkle over the remaining pimentón.

Serves 2-3

Pantxineta is a Basque treat

A delicious nutty topping. Photos: Nikki To / TWAM

Patxineta

Ingredients

• 455ml milk
• 1 vanilla pod, split and seeds scraped
• 5 egg yolks
• 135g sugar
• 30g cornflour
• 30g butter
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• 50ml sherry (optional)
• Zest of 1 orange
• 2 discs of puff pastry (approximately 20cm across)
• 100g flaked almonds
• Icing sugar, for dusting

Method

1. For the crème pâtissière: in a saucepan, heat the milk and vanilla over a medium heat until it just comes to a boil. In a bowl, whisk together 4 egg yolks, 115g sugar and the cornflour until thick and pale.
2. Slowly pour the hot milk into the egg mixture, whisking continually to temper the eggs. Return the mixture to the pan and place on a medium heat, stirring continuously, until it thickens and reaches 82C.
3. Remove from heat and whisk in the butter, salt, sherry, and orange zest until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and cool over ice. Preheat the oven to 175C. Combine the remaining egg yolk with 1 teaspoon of water to make an egg wash.
4. Line a baking tray with parchment paper. Place one puff pastry disc on the tray. Brush the edges with egg wash. Spoon the crème pâtissière into the centre, leaving a 2cm border.
5. Carefully place the second puff pastry disc on top, pressing the edges to seal, ensuring no air bubbles.
6. Brush the top with egg wash, sprinkle with 20g of sugar, and evenly distribute the flaked almonds.
7. Bake for 45 minutes until golden and crisp. Allow to cool completely before dusting with icing sugar. Serve and enjoy.

Serves 4